Mega Maul Clone (aka Thumper)

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TreePapa

Minister of Fire
Hearth Supporter
Dec 24, 2008
612
Southern Calif.
So a few weeks ago I ordered a Mega Maul clone from Northern Tool. It's a 12-pounder (head) made by Truper (http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200325119_200325119)

I've nick-named it Thumper. I haven't used it much, mostly 'cuz I've been bizzy with other stuff; but I did find that it will (eventually) make mincemeat out of wood that I otherwise can't split by hand. First was some fairly green pine, 'bout 12" round, 18" long. The "supersplitter" 4.5 # "maul with wings" (TrueTemper, not Fiskars, unfortunately) just kind got stuck and I could keep bangin' on it all day w/o much result. At first, Thumber just bounced off. Then I discovered that, unlike the ax and supersplitter maul, Thumper works better with the log directly on concrete.

Still, Thumper is heavy enough that it's harder for me to control and get a good, soild swing. Especially when the top of the round is not very flat. Since a lot of the wood I get is from tree service discards, they seem to like to cut on an angle. No having a chainsaw, I just leave the wood as-is unless it's small enough to cut with my 10" miter saw. I did get a 14" Makita miter saw off C/L a couple weeks ago, but it has a bad cord and I can't really use it 'till I replace the cord, which will have to wait till I have free time on a weekend (4 or 5 more weeks).

The other thing about Thumper is that after about 15 minutes of swingin' that bad boy, my arms and shoulders are worn out (yup, old (51) and sorta outta shape). OTOH, when I pick up the 4.5# supersplitter or the 3# ax after that, they feel light as a feather and sort of like swinging air.

So, after that long story, any tips on using the Mega Maul ? Other than "keep practicing and build up the muscles" ?

Peace,
- Sequoia
 
thumper makes me tired just looking at it
 
My brother has one and it's hard for me to get used to the short handle. It does wear me out quick, compared to my standard maul.
 
Practice is a lot of it... I would also note that swinging a Monster-maul clone is one reason why I now have sort of creaky elbows, and got Dr's orders to give it up and go with a powered splitter...

Gooserider
 
I've got the same set - 12 lb monster maul and the 4.5 lb supersplitter. When I use the monster it's as much or more for the head shape than the weight, as you noted the supersplitter does tend to get stuck in some types of wood. The stuff that requires the monster also requires it to be swung hard, which is a lot more taxing than using the supersplitter (which I can swing all day). Swinging that beast hard does tend to lower the accuracy some; practice helps but it's always going to be an issue vs. lighter mauls. So I've sort of concluded that an 8 lb maul is probably closer to my personal sweet spot for max power. For speed with easy-splitting wood like oak, though, the super splitter is the way to go.

I hope if you're splitting directly on concrete it's not something you care about. Anytime I make the mistake of chopping directly on my asphalt driveway I wind up gouging it when the maul goes clean through or when I get a glancing hit due to some funny grain or bad aim.
 
DiscoInferno said:
I've got the same set - 12 lb monster maul and the 4.5 lb supersplitter. When I use the monster it's as much or more for the head shape than the weight, as you noted the supersplitter does tend to get stuck in some types of wood. The stuff that requires the monster also requires it to be swung hard, which is a lot more taxing than using the supersplitter (which I can swing all day). Swinging that beast hard does tend to lower the accuracy some; practice helps but it's always going to be an issue vs. lighter mauls. So I've sort of concluded that an 8 lb maul is probably closer to my personal sweet spot for max power. For speed with easy-splitting wood like oak, though, the super splitter is the way to go.

I hope if you're splitting directly on concrete it's not something you care about. Anytime I make the mistake of chopping directly on my asphalt driveway I wind up gouging it when the maul goes clean through or when I get a glancing hit due to some funny grain or bad aim.

I wish I had a steady supply of easy-splitting wood like oak, but it ain't easy to come by here.

I split on my concrete driveway. The splitting area already has pits and scratches due to my splitting activity, but not too back. I certainly don't want to start hitting it hard with Thumper, 'tho. It would probably split concrete amost as well as it does wood (maybe better). However, when I used Thumper on some pine that was sitting on dirt, it got all bouncy and didn't work for @^*^.

I'll keep practicing, 'cuz I've got some more of that knarly pine that I either have to split or get rid of. I'll let ya'll know when I get good at it ;-}.

Peace,
- Sequoia
 
I was just splitting some knotty white pine. I sawed a lot in half first, but the main thing was to hit between the knots and to keep trying new spots if the maul bounces or gets stuck. An inch or two seemed to make the difference between Doh! and a clean split. The same goes for hemlock. OTOH, last year I had some Virginia pine or something similar, and it was just stringy. Didn't matter where I hit it.
 
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