Meta Hat Channel - Heat Shield construction

[WhatIsChazaq]

First post ever to your great forum...

Just bought a VC Encore Non-Cat, building a hearth and heat shield. I bought a "Tiling 1-2-3" book from Home Depot a long time ago to help me figure out how to tile all the floors/bathrooms in the house. There's a project in the book for building a Stove Heat Shield. It talks about using "hat channel" to space the shield from the wall. I've asked for it at Home Depot and at Lowes and they look at me like I have two heads. Any ideas on where to find this stuff or an alternative?

Thanks!

 

[edthedawg]

What it is: http://www.johnsonrollforming.com/display.php/display/A3/category/4

What you can probably use in its place, that the minimum-wage brain-donors at Lowes/Depot will be able to grok: metal studs. If you need a smaller gap, there are many examples available of small metal or ceramic spacers people use to accomplish this "air gap" requirement.

FWIW - I visited HD during one of their tiling seminars and found about 50% of the info to be useful... tough to demo since the pre-mixed, in-the-can stuff is so much different than the large-scale, full-project, mix-it-yourself styles of compounds - but they can't really justify making & wasting such huge quantities of product.

Good luck w/ your construction... still working on your Hardibacker query...

 

[Jags]

Hat channel can be found at any of the "true" drywall stores. Now, do you need one leg, 2 leg, 7/8" or 1.5"...blah, blah, blah. Go to the stores that the contractors use. They will know hat channel.

 

[begreen]

It's far easier and cheaper to cut some 3"x48" strips from the cement board and double them up to create 1" furring strip spacers for the wall shield.

 

[WhatIsChazaq]

It's far easier and cheaper to cut some 3"x48" strips from the cement board and double them up to create 1" furring strip spacers for the wall shield.

I certainly like that idea...any potential drawbacks like heat conducting through the backerboard furring strips to the wall? The idea is to buffer the wall as much as possible right?

 

[Jags]

Keep in mind that the backer board strips would have "some" insulation value. 3 layers (backer board and 2 furring strips) should give the buffer that you are looking for.

 

[begreen]

No worry, they will retard heat flow. This is the method recommended by USG for Durock. Here's a link:

(broken link removed to http://tinyurl.com/nmmt3)

 

[fossil]

No reason why you can't figure a way to support the weight of the shield from the floor, while still allowing for a nice air gap across the bottom edge...a few little "feet" of some sort spaced out across the bottom. Then all you need do is attach the shield to the wall at a few points just to keep it in place. Set it on the floor rather than hanging it from the wall...structurally simpler. Spacing from the wall can be achieved by using ceramic spacers made specifically for that application, or by simply cutting some 1" lengths of small diameter copper tubing, or buying some sort of metal spacers...anything non-combustible that a screw will fit through. You won't need many, and you don't want any of them directly behind the stove. Rick

 

[wolfkiller]

There are only 2 standard sizes of hat channel. 7/8 and 1 1/2" Any sheet metal shop can bend you up some Z metal at any size. If you are looking for 1 to 2 inch furring figure about .10 cents a foot for Z metal. I recomend having it bent out of 20 ga galvanised. Use ceramic coated self drilling screws to attach you tile backer. Standard sheetrock type screws will not last long in tile backer.