That was my thoughts as well, I found the unit for as low as $2,000. I certainly don’t mind paying for a quality job but don’t want to feel I was ripped off, maybe I will contact another installer for a quote and go from there.Thats about twice what the materials cost. I guess thats the going rate. Nice profit if the install goes easy. Couple hours.
You want a reputable installer, someone who really knows their stuff on these ,also one that will come back out right away if there is a problem and fix it. They say they should last 20 years but a lot less if the install is not done right. I had a cheap brand 12k installed this past summer, lasted 1 month, worked fantastic until it didnt.
Most home upgrades are multiples of the material cost ,not unusual. Its usually cost effective to pay for quality in both the materials and the installation. Having experienced the downside of a poor install in the past ,ill stick with the pros in the future. But yes get several quotes and better yet speak to past customers if possible.That was my thoughts as well, I found the unit for as low as $2,000. I certainly don’t mind paying for a quality job but don’t want to feel I was ripped off, maybe I will contact another installer for a quote and go from there.
Dont know anyone who uses this regularly. Electric resistance is about the most expensive form of heat available. Great for a backup or occasional use but definitely not the main source of heat. While most heating fuels cost fall between $10 and $20 per million BTUs , Electric resistance is in the mid $30s (15c kwh)to low $40 per million Btus depending on your electric rate. Heat pumps mini splits and geo thermal do a very good job of chopping that back to competitive levels.So I am considering electric baseboard, anyone have experience with the newer electric baseboard? As far as comfort and being really dry heat, efficiency and any other pros and cons?
it would be going in a finished basement roughly 600 sq feet.
Dont let anyone BS you, new electric heat is not one bit more efficient than old electric heat. Some ads and salesman talk about magical fluid around the coils to make the heat last longer but it just means its takes longer to heat up. Electric heat is 100% efficient at its use point but as mentioned you pay a big premium.So I am considering electric baseboard, anyone have experience with the newer electric baseboard? As far as comfort and being really dry heat, efficiency and any other pros and cons?
it would be going in a finished basement roughly 600 sq feet.
I have one in my bathroom as well, gets used 15 to 30 min a day in winter. Also dont fall for the miracle Amish heater or the $300 Edenpure . And dont fall for the line "it only uses as much electricity as a coffee maker " Yes 1500 watts . But you dont run your coffee maker 12 hours a day 1 in every room.Dont let anyone BS you, new electric heat is not one bit more efficient than old electric heat. Some ads and salesman talk about magical fluid around the coils to make the heat last longer but it just means its takes longer to heat up. Electric heat is 100% efficient at its use point but as mentioned you pay a big premium.
It has its uses in very small spaces that need a bit of boost. I use one in very small spaces that need a bit of boost. I use one in my bathroom to kick the heat up in winter when I take shower
Could be even uglier than a mini split hanging on the wall is a second ugly thing, a condensate pump, hanging on the wall under it.True for the parts. Could present a more awkward install too. Hard to say from here.
You need one of these if you plan on winter operation. Mine is I think 20 inches off the ground. Never had any issues the last 2 winters. Both my units are hyper heat units with basepan heaters. I can see my units from the window. How they work is they energize the basepan heater and reverse the refrigerant flow and melt the coil. I have run them in blizzard like conditions and the coil and basepan gets completely cleared. Yes there are some units without basepan heaters but I would never install one with the intention on running one a New England winter.My guess is the forecast powdery snow and low temps with this upcoming storm, more than a few new mini split heat pump owners will learn that there are limitations with minisplits especially if they were installed without planning for snow. That powdery stuff can get drawn in when the fan is running and block off the outdoor coil. The system will try to thaw them out with defrost cycles but if the conditions are right it just forms a hard crust a short distance away from the coil so the defrost really doesnt help. Some bransd have heater in the base pan but the heater is designed from keeping ice from forming in the pan not on the coils. Once froze up it takes a lot of heat and time to get it thawed. When I iced mine up with a snowblower it was several hours tbefore I had heat again. I tried a heat gun and got it warm enough that my grille drooped a bit in a spot. I ended up covering it with a tarp and using a fan forced electric heater to heat up the space.
I'm in CT as well and got quotes for $4-5k for each single zone 12-18k btu unit. I ended up installing 2 hyper heats myself that cost a little over $1k each. I'm a former auto mechanic so had plenty of flaring and ac experience. They were not hard at all to install. Both have been running nonstop for 2 years with zero issues.I've been barking up the mini split tree too. SE CT here so pricing should be similar to you.
1800 sqft tri-level, but only planning to do the 1500 sqft of main living area.
$10 K for a 2.5 ton fully ducted system with Mitsubishi compressor, Air Bear super filter, etc, or 9 K for a pair of mini's, 9-12 master bed room and 15-18 for kitchen, dining, living room area. This guy was kind of full of himself, had issues returning my calls, etc.
He was willing to do a 1000 discount for cash sale on either system.
2nd and 3rd quotes were roughly 6500-7200 for Fujitsu / Mitsubishi with similar specs, 9-12 master bed room and 15-18 for kitchen, dining, living room area. Slight variance depending if I go with one "multi" compressor or 2 separate units. Putting one unit on each end of the house would eliminate a long 50-60' run of piping for the bedroom unit to reach the other end of the house. 2 units = slightly more $ but slightly higher efficiency ratings. 2 units need separate breakers and surge suppressers.
I spent a lot of time reading operation and maintenance manuals online and was amazed at how these things throttle up and down instead of cycling on and off. A 9-15 K can throttle itself as low a 3 and up to a bit more than it's max when in "turbo" mode for quick results.