Modifying a gasser

[Roundgunner]

ProFab is out of business so I don't have to worry about voiding my warrantee anymore.

Boiler is a Elite 200 V3 (stainless fire box) 2015

Right now it is set to shut off the blower at 180 and come back on at 170, its highest setting. I would like to run it at 190 and 180 so the water is hotter when it gets into the house(over 100 foot run.) I'm not an electronics type but I follow directions well.

Has anybody tried this?

Anybody know how to reset it?

Anybody have thoughts on this?

Thanks

 

[hondaracer2oo4]

Hotter when it hits the house? How much are you loosing from the boiler to the house. Should be less than 1 degree. What kind of heat are you running in the house? I think central runs there gassers up to 190.

 

[StihlKicking]

I agree with Honda racers post above. Plus your cutting it pretty close at 190. Just because you blower shuts of at 190 doesn't mean your water will instantly stop increasing in temperature. Around the 200 degree mark you start melting most pipes. If your determined to do it though, it should be a simple procedure. Just cut your existing aquastat a loose and wire in a simple Honeywell without a limiter on it.

 

[mustash29]

Your 200 probably has the same temp controller as my 100. They are programmed for max 180 off & 169 on. (10 deg differential, turns back on when the diff hits 11). I'm sure there is a way to re-program them or "jailbreak" them but I'm not sure how. I've seen a guy on e-bay selling "factory replacements" that are "already programmed".

You could always get a replacement and keep your original for a spare? They are Love controls, a division of Dwyer. https://www.dwyer-inst.com/Product/Temperature/

Or maybe swap to an adjustable digital aquastat. http://www.supplyhouse.com/Johnson-...age-Digital-Temperature-Control-120-240v-SPDT

The wiring is not very complicated. Do you have a copy of the factory wiring schematic? I have hard copies if you need one.

 

[S.Whiplash]

The Elite uses Love digital controls, easily reprogrammed by holding down a couple of buttons at the same time until it resets.
Here is a link, you should be able to find the manual in their literature that give specific instructions. Model TS2-10.

http://www.dwyer-inst.com/Product/Temperature/Switches/DigitalPanelMount/SeriesTS2

 

[mustash29]

Thank you for the link to those instructions.

 

[Roundgunner]

Thanks for the replies, sorry for the Thanksgiving weekend delay.


My old 200 was replaced under warrantee during the summer of 2015 but I used it very little last year with a warm winter and low oil prices. I think I burned more wood during the summer heating the pool than all winter last year.

I think I lose more heat than a degree or two before it gets to the heat exchangers via the manifold in the garage and splits off to go to each basement. The boilers hardly ever get hotter than 165. Never seen them over 170.

I bought the insulated pex when I bought the original boiler that failed, I can't remember what kind it was but it was insulated and wrapped in what looked like a plastic 4" flex drain pipe if I remember right. I do remember it cost me a bunch. It is buried 40" deep except for where it comes into the shed and the other end that comes into the garage. The pex is 1" and I put the pipe insulation on it except right at the garage manifold (I will do better there soon) the garage run is then run inside the insulated 2x6 wall and enclosed in the insulated ceiling.

While refilling the wood shed this afternoon I noticed that the new boiler blower comes back on at 174, so it only has a 5* spread. I think that is probably going to work better for me, I notice the boiler is not making as much creosote as before also. Not sure if that has anything to do with it but heck, take good things when you can.

My heating diagram makes sense to me but I once drew out all the air, water, hydraulic and electrical systems of a nuclear submarine onto a spiral notebook while getting qualified in the Navy. If they look like a Martian drew them out to you I'm sorry.

Thanks

Warren



Garage manifold

 

[maple1]

If your underground is the wrapped stuff, you could be losing a lot of heat there. Accurate temp measures of before & after the ground should tell that tale.

 

[Roundgunner]

I would say yes wrapped, What is the other way? I hate the thought of digging it up and replacing it.

 

[Roundgunner]

Thanks for the info whiplash, I will try to understand it so I can change it.

 

[mustash29]

Bubblehead huh? I did 5 yrs on a carrier as a nuke ET - finished construction, testing, initial startups, etc, then did 3 yrs of radcon & maintenance on subs before I got out.

Go to the link that Whiplash posted, about 1/2 way down the page is the video tab. Once the video player shows up click the little icon below it. The video seemed easier to follow than the written instructions.

How many seasons (cords) did you have on your old 200 before it failed? How / where did it fail? Was it the all carbon steel firebox?

Progress on installing my 100 has been very slow. New job position, lost our beloved sheltie to pancreatic cancer, got 2 new sheltie puppies, both parents had some health issues, etc.

 

[maple1]

I would say yes wrapped, What is the other way? I hate the thought of digging it up and replacing it.

Some (most?) of that wrapped stuff is notorious for soaking up water over time - which then sucks the heat out of your pipes. Not saying it happens all the time, but it happens quite a bit.

The good stuff uses solid closed cell foam insulation. Thermopex is likely the most common - there is another one used a lot, the name escapes me at the moment.

Accurate temp measuring at both ends of the pipe will tell. I think the good stuff only loses a degree or two underground.

EDIT: You could also do spray foamed in place pex. There's a sticky up top about that - might be easier & less expensive, depending on your local situation. If you do ever decide the underground is costing you heat.

 

[Roundgunner]

Bubblehead huh? I did 5 yrs on a carrier as a nuke ET - finished construction, testing, initial startups, etc, then did 3 yrs of radcon & maintenance on subs before I got out.

Go to the link that Whiplash posted, about 1/2 way down the page is the video tab. Once the video player shows up click the little icon below it. The video seemed easier to follow than the written instructions.

How many seasons (cords) did you have on your old 200 before it failed? How / where did it fail? Was it the all carbon steel firebox?

Progress on installing my 100 has been very slow. New job position, lost our beloved sheltie to pancreatic cancer, got 2 new sheltie puppies, both parents had some health issues, etc.

Mustash29,

I did 6 years surface QM before doing a couple more on subs. Finished with 11 years and started a portrait business in Norwich in 88. Still love it, seasonal business so I have a lot of free time (or used to). Now I'm building a second 3 car garage with a 1200 sq foot apt above it for my daughter and granddaughter, it is almost done. It took longer than I ever expected, mostly because I go the wood boiler half way thru the build and shifted all efforts to installing it and getting 4 years ahead with wood.

I got most of my wood from the sides of the road at DOT cuts at first but I hooked up with a couple tree guys and would always come to help and haul away anything they wanted. I have become very good friends with a guy who bids jobs for both of us, he drops trees, I brush hog and haul away wood and get paid to boot.

My old 200 had its first season the year it was so cold a few years back, heated 2 houses to about 74* and we used no oil but blew thru 14 cord of mostly dry pine. Burned some fresh ash and some one season elm. All and all a rough season to start burning full time but oil was $4 a gallon and I hate giving money to people who hate us. My next door neighbor who works for me bought $3000 worth of oil that year for a smaller house and runs it at 64*. I think it saved us about $6000 in oil the first year between the 2 houses.

I got 2 seasons out of it, burn in summer also to heat the pool. It was cold rolled steel and when it gave out I never spent the time tearing it down to find the leak, just got the new one under warrantee with $2000 depreciation. They told me I could scrap the old one so I had a guy from Mass help me pull the old one and put the new one in place. He gave me $1500 to scrap the old one for me. I guess he was a maintenance man for a town or school or something. Said he was going to pressurize it to find the leak. I never heard back from him so I assume the scrapping went well.

I will look for the video.

Do you have enough wood? We are doing a job in Ledyard right now and will probably be leaving some wood behind. Where do you live? Do you have a truck? I have about 40 cord CSS with more on the ground in my yard. I'm only going to get the best wood and keep trying to figure a way to get 50 cord on my lot. I think I will only burn 10 cord a year now that the Oak, Maple & Locust are dry enough to add into the Poplar, Cherry & Ash.

If you would like to see my system I will point out what is good and what I wish I had done another way. I live in Hanover, 4 houses from Canterbury.


Maple1, I will look into the foam for tubing. I live on a gravel bank with very good drainage but if the outer pipe filled up it would take forever to empty / drain out.

 

[mustash29]

I'll send you a pm.

 

[Yooper Guy]

Where are u guys getting your water tested now that pro Fab has dumped us? I have pro Fab 400.


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[Roundgunner]

Where are u guys getting your water tested now that pro Fab has dumped us? I have pro Fab 400.


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I have not had it tested, I did add some of the treatment.

 

[Yooper Guy]

I also add treatment. Would like to know where water is at.

Any thoughts on losing warranty, support , and parts when pro Fab bailed.

Warranty and service is part of what I paid $11k for.

Have you heard of any legal action agains pro Fab by dealers.


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[Roundgunner]

My first boiler failed after 2 seasons. Profab charged me $2000 to replace it and I had to do the install. (PIA)I really hope this one will stand up better, it is the newest version with stainless steel...

 

[Yooper Guy]

My 1st Pro Fab 400 had issues from month one. After much welding I finally got warranty replacement. $4700 and new 10 year warranty. Warranty stove is on second season. I also hope it last longer.

I've heard Pro Fab was getting so many stoves back that it was reason they discontinued stoves. Heard they used inferior metal from China.

 

[Sheridan]

So agrivated in finding profab bailed. Cheap steel no doubt..my elite 100 lasted three years before water started leaking in the fire box. ProFab offered a replacement (steel) boiler modified with a stainless fire box at no cost. I would pay shipping and disconnect/reconnect fee. Option #2 buy a new boiler with the firebox made of stainless for $2k and receive a new 10 year warranty.
I went for option #2.
I have a video of dropping the corroded unit at a scrap yard, so sad it looks brand new new when a bid claw crunched it and removed it off my trailer. I did strip the electronics off of it....
I'm in my 2nd season with the boiler and notice the stainless version does not perform as well as the steel unit did.
Always fussing to get a good burn and notice the lower chamber does not get enough of oxygen as the old unit did.
I'll keep fussing with this unit and keep it going until it dies.
Stephen

 

[Roundgunner]

Your story is much like mine. I don't have any of the cleaning or maintenance info. did you get any before they shut down. The upper box firebrick is much different from my old one. Only problem I have is seal on upper door is always leaking.

If you have any info could you send me a copy please?
Warren

 

[Sheridan]

Your story is much like mine. I don't have any of the cleaning or maintenance info. did you get any before they shut down. The upper box firebrick is much different from my old one. Only problem I have is seal on upper door is always leaking.

If you have any info could you send me a copy please?
Warren

I have the new elite manual which covers the 100 and 200 units, I'll scan it and upload.
I shut down my boiler last night 1/23/17 due to the loading door gasket leaking smoke.
ProFab used a typical rope gasket and coated it with a high temp silicone. The silicone is gone and rope burnt on the bottom of the loading door causing the leak. Also the ceramic 1/2" board lining the loading door is cracked. I found a company in Arizona who is shipping a new board. $80.00. As soon as it arrives I'll replace the seal and ceramic board.
Did you repair your leaking door?

 

[Yooper Guy]

I have a Pro Fab 400. Door also leaks. I replace rope gasket and high temp silicone every year. Most hardware stores carry both.

I've replaced bricks also. I Google fire bricks and find correct size. Generic brands work fine.


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[Roundgunner]

I have the new elite manual which covers the 100 and 200 units, I'll scan it and upload.
I shut down my boiler last night 1/23/17 due to the loading door gasket leaking smoke.
ProFab used a typical rope gasket and coated it with a high temp silicone. The silicone is gone and rope burnt on the bottom of the loading door causing the leak. Also the ceramic 1/2" board lining the loading door is cracked. I found a company in Arizona who is shipping a new board. $80.00. As soon as it arrives I'll replace the seal and ceramic board.
Did you repair your leaking door?

I would love to have that file. So far when it looks like the door is leaking to much I have just moved the latch stud back to tighten it up.

How much creosote do you get one the walls of your upper chamber? On mine it has a moist layer that runs down and burns off but it is never gone / always gummy on the sides. I have never seen anyone else who has one so I don't know what is normal. I would love to open it up and have it be like the desert inside.

 

[Sheridan]

I would love to have that file. So far when it looks like the door is leaking to much I have just moved the latch stud back to tighten it up.

How much creosote do you get one the walls of your upper chamber? On mine it has a moist layer that runs down and burns off but it is never gone / always gummy on the sides. I have never seen anyone else who has one so I don't know what is normal. I would love to open it up and have it be like the desert inside.

Tried to tighten up on the door adjustmen, it helped for about two weeks and started to leak again....
Took a few photos of the repair which I started last night.
When the ceramic insulation panel cracked, creosote started to build behind it, pushing the panel out. The lower part of the door has heavy creosote, probably excelling the lower gasket failure.
And yes, I get a large amount of creosote on the walls, same as you. I even get creosote buildup in the tubes and bought a heavy duty deposit remover from Goodway.
I need to find out why I'm not getting good airflow in the lower chamber. ProFab changed the design with the stainless model and installed better access to clean creosote build up in the air passage route for the lower chamber. I thinking there is air loss along the passage giving the lower chamber the poor secondary burn performance.
The first elite 100 I had (all steel unit) burned way better. Less creosote build up, burned hotter, cleaner and loved larger logs. This Elit 100 SS unit=SNAFU.