month old stove ,discoloration and door tightness

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devinsdad

Member
Hearth Supporter
Sep 25, 2009
227
northern NY
Was bored last night so I was admiring the stove and noticed 2 brownish spots 4-5 inches n-s and 1" e-s aroiund my door. latch side and hinge side. So I thought it was from leaving the door cracked for start ups .Then I noticed the bottom hinge pin was almost all the way out :-/ I tapped that back in ,now I can see right into my firebox (about a pencil lead size hole between door and stove. So I pulled the gasket out a little and closed the hole. On the inside of the door on hinge side the metal looks rainbowish (word?)
I did the dollar bill test with no give for the bottom of door and lower latch side. But the whole top of latch around the top of door to lower hinge is very loose very slight resistance almost none. Upon closer inspection I see the bottom of the door is tight to stove and the top is out enough so I can see the gasket material.
Questions 1: is my door /hinges faulty? why wouldn't the hinge side be TIGHT?!
2:Does the bluish purple metal discoloration mean my door has been compromised? This is between the hinge and glass
3Should I be able to see through the gasket into my firebox when the whole works is only like a month old
4: Whats up with the brown spots? leaky? I went around the door with a cancer stick but the heat from the stove just pushed the smoke up away from door it did not suck any in.
5:should hinge pins work out? lube em with something?
6:shouldn't the door be close to the same in relationship to the stove when closed not tight at bottom loose on top?
7:should I get a Woodstove for Ignoramusses book
8:Where can I get said book
Sorry this is so long but would like to get things 'right' before / if the cold gets here Thanks
 
Picture would help. But no, the hinge pin should not work its way out. You should not be able to look into the firebox from the outside except through the glass. The door and the stove body should be on the same plane.

Take a known, flat, straight-edge and place it against the door edges to check for warping. If it is not true, get it replaced by the dealer.
 
Couple of items. I have never had a stove with drop in hinge pins that didn't work their way up slowly over time after a lot of opening and closing of the door. A little graphite on the pins helps. Second, put that straight edge on the front surfaces of the stove where the door makes contact. Check it on all four sides. Hold a flashlight on the other side of the straight edge and look for bowing in the face of the firebox.

Been there. That was what was wrong with my first 30-NC.
 
well the straight edge checks out I'm wondering if the hinge welds are not right? door is straight face of firebox is straight.There is an adjustment for the latch and that does absolutely nothing for the hinge side,And if latch side did need adjustment it wouldn't because the door is already tight on lower left corner and wearing the paint >:(
 
That gasket should seal tightly, all the way around the door. If it can't, call the dealer.
 
with some poking and puliing I got the see through part to close up. I guess being a new stove I just assumed everthing would be good to go but the dollar bill resistance is still weak at best on the hinge and top. I'm shooting an email to Jason @ Kuma right now .
 
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