Morso 1125 wood burner

[64IMPALA]

Hi Guys –

My first post here and my first foray into the world of burning wood. I have an opportunity to get my hands on a Morso 1125 wood burner as a “free to good home”. Unfortunately, it’s been stored outside, exposed and is in need of a little bit of work.

From my initial review of the unit, the firebricks are missing and the front door handle is rusted in position. I can’t open the doors. I’m hoping a liberal application of kroil and maybe some heat and I’ll be able to bust them loose. Other than that, there doesn’t appear to be any other damage.

Right now, my plan it to put in my shop, but would like to put in the basement of my house. So now the questions..

1. What is the round plate on the back of the stove for? It appears to be the same diameter as the top hole where the damper is. Is that for an alternate location for the piping?

2. Can I use standard fire bricks to line the stove? Given the age of this thing, I’m willing to bet that original fire bricks for this thing are rarer than hen’s teeth. I'm assuming there was firebrick on the bottom, left and right hand sides and back of the stove. Was there firebrick on the angled face as well? What about on either sides of the door?

3. The handle to open the doors is seized up. Which way does the handle rotate to an open position? I may need to tap with a hammer to get things moving and I want to make sure I’m turning the correct way. Right now the handle is in a vertical position and the doors are completely closed.

4. The damper freely moves, but the screws and clips that hold the damper to the top of the stove are rusted and seized, but I think easily fixed

5. Given the general condition of the stove, is it worth refurbishing or a lost cause? From the research I’ve done, it looks like a pretty good stove for heat, if efficiency is not a big concern. It will fit nicely in my 30x40 shop, but would be even nicer in my basement if I can vent the stove thru the wall to the outside, otherwise I’m stuck.

Any assistance or comments are greatly appreciated.



Joe

 

[7acres]

Before I got to the end of your post I was already thinking it would be perfect for heating your shop! After a bit of TLC, that is.

 

[begreen]

I think the firebrick is proprietary with interlocking tabs. Maybe something could be rigged to replace them, but I think some sort of retention system might be needed for conventional bricks. IIRC the bricks are only around the lower area surrounding the firebox. You might try woodmanspartsplus.com for parts. If they don't have them they might be able to give you a lead. Also check with a good Morso dealer.

 

[64IMPALA]

I think the firebrick is proprietary with interlocking tabs. Maybe something could be rigged to replace them, but I think some sort of retention system might be needed for conventional bricks. IIRC the bricks are only around the lower area surrounding the firebox. You might try woodmanspartsplus.com for parts. If they don't have them they might be able to give you a lead. Also check with a good Morso dealer.

Can someone do me a HUGE favor and take pictures of the firebricks in their Morso 1125? I found some castable firebrick material from woodmanspartsplus.com which I could use to make my own with some molds. I would need pictures and maybe dimensions? I have no idea what is involved in removing a firebrick from the stove, so if it is over-the-top request, feel free to tell me to pound sand...

The stove may be a lost cause without the brinks, but I'm bound and determined to try and salvage it. I'm stubborn that way... Thanks for the help.

Joe

 

[fluidrive]

hi

i just bought an old morso 1125, went out to the mason supply and purchased stove brick and refractory cement.

i already had a metal brick blade for my 4" grinder so i was able to dry fit bricks one row vertical and one row horizontal above that by just fitting them carefully.

i day curing and i fired her up, gently at first and now full blast.

the stove is teaching me to run it with just enough air flow to get secondary flames and on my flue set up at about 2 o clock position it gets required temp in the stove pipe.

amazing stove, thinking of a second one now for my cabin.

good luck,

c

 

[fluidrive]

oh by the way, i was able to salvage the bricks lining the floor of the stove,

they are covered in ash so i cannot shoot an image of them, they simply have some 1" ridges i expect this was to help air flow for the first firing after you clean, but ultimately i don't thing this improves thermo properties to protect the cast iron.

i have no ridges on the side walls, but the older couple i bought this from ran it as such for years with no cracking or warping.... it is mint.

in fact they only had done a single row of brick but i took the initiative to put the second layer on top as i expect the fire to impact the metal over time.

as of this week i am heating my 2000 ft home with this alone, dry aged oak mind you.

easily leaves coal in the morning, without over packing it.


c