Morso Squirrel 1410 install with rear flue mount?

[KYBobKat]

Hello, new here. Stumbled on the site as I was considering a wood stove for a small cabin. I think I am leaving this little cabin off grid, but I plan to furnish for comfortable weekend stays. I had envisioned a classic cast iron stove with a rustic appearance. Since it is a cabin, I also plan to occasionally cook on the top of the stove. So after some research, I thought I wanted a Jotul 602, but there are none available around my area. The closet Jotul dealer said it would likely take nine months to get one. I then stumbled on a local dealer who had one Morso Squirrel 1410. It was ordered extra and had just came in. I hurried down to look at it, and was a bit surprised at the size. It was pretty small, but it really looked well built and I loved the classic look. Perfect for the small cabin which is ~520sf. I was also surprised at the price! These little guys are not cheap. Since availability was limited, I went ahead and bought the unit. Now I am planning the install. I have a clean slate, wide open room and considering the optimal location. My question for the forum is, has anyone installed the Squirrel 1410 with the flue exiting the rear instead of the top? I would think optimum draft would occur with a top mount flue, but I could use the surface space on top with the rear mount. I do like the look of the top mount flue, but it there are no considerable drawbacks to the rear discharge, I will likely go that route. I could also install a clean out T on the rear too. Anyway here are a few pics and would appreciate input. Thank you.

 

[Tar12]

Nice cabin and stove! There will be no drawbacks by going the rear exit route...your only concern will be getting the 15 ft minimum stack height..

 

[snobuilder]

Beautiful cabin. Is that cedar?
Awesome looking little stove as well.....All cast iron?
Hopefully you will be able to control the burn on that stove despite the intricate planet saving government design.

 

[bholler]

Beautiful cabin. Is that cedar?
Awesome looking little stove as well.....All cast iron?
Hopefully you will be able to control the burn on that stove despite the intricate planet saving government design.

What intricate design is that?

 

[SpaceBus]

If you want the most usability you could put a rear vent, but still keep the flue within your structure. With such a short flue height either way I would use double wall pipe inside the structure and 4' or so of insulated class A chimney on the outside above the roof. The rule is the flue exit must be 2' taller than anything within 10' horizontally.

 

[KYBobKat]

Nice cabin and stove! There will be no drawbacks by going the rear exit route...your only concern will be getting the 15 ft minimum stack height..

Thank you Tar12,
I should be able to get 7-10 ft inside the cabin, depending on placement. The rest will have to be above the roof. But you are correct, that will be my next decision to factor in.

 

[KYBobKat]

Beautiful cabin. Is that cedar?
Awesome looking little stove as well.....All cast iron?
Hopefully you will be able to control the burn on that stove despite the intricate planet saving government design.

Snobuilder, yes, it is made of 100% cedar logs. Even the doors and floor are cedar. The stove is cast iron, which is one reason I liked it.
Yea, we will see how it burns. Going to install a stone or tile area to set the stove, then begin work on the flue.

 

[KYBobKat]

What intricate design is that?

Are there design issues with this stove that I am not aware of that make it difficult to burn wood?

 

[KYBobKat]

If you want the most usability you could put a rear vent, but still keep the flue within your structure. With such a short flue height either way I would use double wall pipe inside the structure and 4' or so of insulated class A chimney on the outside above the roof. The rule is the flue exit must be 2' taller than anything within 10' horizontally.

Spacebus,
Thats my thoughts as well. Put the pipe inside, go up through the metal roof. Although I hate punching a whole in the roof, I hate the thought of cutting a huge whole in the logs to exit the side. I will likely go through the roof.

Initially I thought single wall pipe for more heat radiation, but I agree that the double wall pipe may be best. I can place the unit in the corner, but that leaves me with the shortest inside pipe run. Or I can place it more center on the wall, which has the highest inside ceiling height to give me a longer inside run of pipe. The corner may look best, but centering it may be best overall position for pipe run and heat distribution. Thank you for the input!

 

[begreen]

Are there design issues with this stove that I am not aware of that make it difficult to burn wood?

None other than it needs dry, fully seasoned wood to burn properly. Same as other stoves.

 

[begreen]

Put the pipe inside, go up through the metal roof.

They make a special flashing for a metal roof. Done right, it will provide good protection.

The double-wall pipe will still be radiant, just not as much as single-wall. It's a superior quality stovepipe that will stay cleaner and will help draft by keeping the flue gases hotter. If there will be 7' vertical inside then plan on 7' of chimney pipe outside. It will need a brace at 5' above the roof.

In that small space there will be plenty of heat, though a lot will pocket up near the ceiling peak.

 

[KYBobKat]

They make a special flashing for a metal roof. Done right, it will provide good protection.

Yeah, Im likely going through the roof. Been looking at those flashings. Not sure I like the rubber boot type, but will evaluate those more as I get ready to purchase.

 

[begreen]

Definitely don't use a rubber boot. Get a metal roof flashing from Excel or Ventis (Olympia/Champion).

 

[KYBobKat]

That looks much better! Will definitely consider that option.

thank you.

 

[stoveliker]

It's not only "an option", it's part of an approved system. Doing it in a way that is not described by the manufacturer of the pipe may void the UL listing of the pipe and may result in insurance not paying if disaster happens.

 

[begreen]

Silicone boots are made by some chimney mfgs. for metal roof installations, but I don't like them. Besides being a point of flexation, poor seal at pipe seam, and eventual UV breakdown, one has to pepper the roof with screws to secure the gasket.

 

[KYBobKat]

Silicone boots are made by some chimney mfgs. for metal roof installations, but I don't like them. Besides being a point of flexation, poor seal at pipe seam, and eventual UV breakdown, one has to pepper the roof with screws to secure the gasket.

That’s what I noticed. Just doesn’t seem to be a good long term solution.

 

[stoveliker]

I thought the silicone boots were a (decreasing) minority of vendors.

 

[KYBobKat]

It's not only "an option", it's part of an approved system. Doing it in a way that is not described by the manufacturer of the pipe may void the UL listing of the pipe and may result in insurance not paying if disaster happens.

Point taken. I plan to follow the manufacturers recommendations. I don’t have any of the pipe yet, but will be building the “system” properly.

 

[begreen]

I thought the silicone boots were a (decreasing) minority of vendors.

You could be right, but a very big one, Selkirk, still makes them and they have many product lines for sale. Looks like Hart & Cooley and Amerivent still do too.

 

[snobuilder]

You may want to find a pre EPA stove where you control all the intake air and won't need 6 + feet of chimney towering above your awesome little cabin.

 

[stoveliker]

Or you may want to enjoy more of the heat from all the wood you processed and get a good EPA stove. There are easy breathers that can work off of a 12' stack. (Just don't go below the stack height the stove requires.)

 

[bholler]

You may want to find a pre EPA stove where you control all the intake air and won't need 6 + feet of chimney towering above your awesome little cabin.

Have you ever used a modern stove? I don't see why you would need 6' of stack above the roof either.

 

[sesmith]

That cedar looks great. I bet it smells nice too.

We have a similar sized cabin and installed a Jotul 602 in it. I used Duratech chimney and their double wall telescoping stove pipe. They sell small sections of insulated chimney painted black so if you use a roof chimney bracket, and extend the chimney into the room through a ceiling flashing, it looks good inside with the stovepipe. One thing I would do differently if I could have, is use a roof flashing like begreen pictured above. It looks much better than the Duratech version of the same. I'm not sure I like the vented crimps on the Duratech one as it lets snow blow under the storm cap, but that's a minor issue. It just doesn't look great up there, like an afterthought.

6" DuraTech 0/12 - 6/12 Metal Roof Flashing - 6DT-F6DSA

6'' DuraTech 0/12 - 6/12 Metal Roof Flashing - 9449DSA - 6'' DuraTech Metal Roof Flashing- Find 6 inch double wall above the roof componentss here along with expert advice and installation information - NorthlineExpress.com

www.northlineexpress.com

Here's a pic of our setup. I followed Jotul's clearances and installed it in a corner. Jotul also had a minimum chimney spec height that I'm lower than (the clearances and height are fine with the peak, etc). I'm sure the double wall stovepipe helps with the draft, anyhow, and I figure I could always add a section later if necessary. It hasn't been, and works great. Good luck on yours.

 

[KYBobKat]

That cedar looks great. I bet it smells nice too.

We have a similar sized cabin and installed a Jotul 602 in it. I used Duratech chimney and their double wall telescoping stove pipe. They sell small sections of insulated chimney painted black so if you use a roof chimney bracket, and extend the chimney into the room through a ceiling flashing, it looks good inside with the stovepipe. One thing I would do differently if I could have, is use a roof flashing like begreen pictured above. It looks much better than the Duratech version of the same. I'm not sure I like the vented crimps on the Duratech one as it lets snow blow under the storm cap, but that's a minor issue. It just doesn't look great up there, like an afterthought.

6" DuraTech 0/12 - 6/12 Metal Roof Flashing - 6DT-F6DSA

6'' DuraTech 0/12 - 6/12 Metal Roof Flashing - 9449DSA - 6'' DuraTech Metal Roof Flashing- Find 6 inch double wall above the roof componentss here along with expert advice and installation information - NorthlineExpress.com

www.northlineexpress.com

Here's a pic of our setup. I followed Jotul's clearances and installed it in a corner. Jotul also had a minimum chimney spec height that I'm lower than (the clearances and height are fine with the peak, etc). I'm sure the double wall stovepipe helps with the draft, anyhow, and I figure I could always add a section later if necessary. It hasn't been, and works great. Good luck on yours.

View attachment 289014

sesmith, thanks for the info and pic. Looks great! I was looking for the little Jotel 602 but couldn't find one around here. The Morso is similar. What size pipe is that? 6" or 8"? Maybe it appears larger due to the insulation and telescoping feature. So how does the Jotel perform? Does it heat your cabin adequately? Thanks again for sharing!