Mt. Vernon AE Ignition issues

[Paul C.]

Hi all,
Looking for some help. Had our AE for probably 7 years. Aside from the usual ignitor replacement every year or two, haven't had any issues until now.
I haven't done any upgrades (control board, firepot), so our stove is all-original. I just replaced the fuse on the control board for the second time in as many days. Stove started right up, and was running for 15 minutes or so until it popped the 15A circuit breaker (the stove is the only thing on that circuit). I happened to be sitting at my kitchen table when it popped, and there was an pretty loud "poof" noise that came from the stove (guessing the fuse again). Am I nuts, or is that WAY more power than the stove should be calling for? I've checked the auger and it's not jammed...
Any ideas on what's wrong? Think I need a power supply or control board? Or both?
TIA for any guidance!

 

[kappel15]

Only thing that is 120 volts on that stove is the igniter. Check the igniter wires that they are in their slot above the ashpan, so the auto clean isn't hitting them and causing a short. Check the power supply wire harness going from power supply to control board. IF the white ends are turning brown, it is time to replace it. And I would guess a new power supply before the control board. Do you have the stove plugged into a surge protector? Is this the same outlet it has always been on? Have you tried a different outlet? kap

 

[Paul C.]

Only thing that is 120 volts on that stove is the igniter. Check the igniter wires that they are in their slot above the ashpan, so the auto clean isn't hitting them and causing a short. Check the power supply wire harness going from power supply to control board. IF the white ends are turning brown, it is time to replace it. And I would guess a new power supply before the control board. Do you have the stove plugged into a surge protector? Is this the same outlet it has always been on? Have you tried a different outlet? kap

 

[kappel15]

And they do make a wire harness for the igniter with inline fuses, to help from having to tear apart the control box to get at the other one. kap

 

[Paul C.]

Hi kap,
Yup-it’s on a surge protector, and plugged into the same outlet we’ve always had it on...
I’ll double check the igniter wires in the AM. TBH-I didn’t realize there were channels for the ignition wires to follow. I usually just route them up and over the round bar that’s above the ash pan, then back toward the access hole. I’ll check the wires from the power supply to the board as well. We got the stove used, so it’s gotta be around 10 years old. I figure we’ll start seeing stuff go; just trying to minimize the damage! Thanks for your help! I’ll post what I find...

 

[Paul C.]

And they do make a wire harness for the igniter with inline fuses, to help from having to tear apart the control box to get at the other one. kap

Thanks Kap! Ordered and on the way...
Looks like it was a shorted igniter. I pulled it and tested it with my voltmeter. The fuse on the board was toast, too...
Replaced both, stove is running right now. I should know tomorrow morning if it’s sustainable (the last two mornings I’ve awoken to a dead stove...).
This is a pic of the igniter. It was in the stove <1 full day. You can see it got HOT! I’ve had my share of igniters-I don’t remember seeing a used one be this crunchy...
The new igniter I put in had a thicker gage wire than this. Did I just plain use the wrong one in the first place?

 

[kappel15]

The toasted one looks like the 300 watt igniter for pellets only. The one with white cover on wires is the 380 watt for corn or pellets. They came out with the 300 to try and keep them from burning out too often as they do. kap

 

[Paul C.]

Hi @kappel15! Hope you’ve been well this last year and a half!
So I’m having the same issue as before, only different...
Stove has been running great all season, then the igniter blew the other day. Replaced it, it lit for one cycle, then it blew the fuse. I replaced it and got nothing. I replaced both fuse and igniter today, but I’m still “missing ignition” error and dropping pellets into the pan. It’s like the igniter isn’t getting power, but the fuse is good. I’m stuck-any suggestions?

 

[kappel15]

Do you know if the igniter is getting hot? If not, follow where power is and power isn't. Check igniter harness. Check AC power supply harness. Check continuity in the wire harness's. Check all three fuses. kap

 

[Paul C.]

Do you know if the igniter is getting hot? If not, follow where power is and power isn't. Check igniter harness. Check AC power supply harness. Check continuity in the wire harness's. Check all three fuses. kap

Hi kap,
The igniter isn’t getting hot, but I know it’s okay and all the fuses are good.
If I put my multimeter probes into the igniter leads from the control board, I should see 120V go across them during startup, yes?

 

[kappel15]

Power starts in power supply. Then you have the power supply wire harness that goes to the board. There are two. One is the AC and the other is the DC. From control board it follows wire harness for igniter. kap

 

[rickwai]

And they do make a wire harness for the igniter with inline fuses, to help from having to tear apart the control box to get at the other one. kap

Inline fuses are a great idea. a 5 amp fuse will carry 600w. Would def. blow before the board fuse. The board fuse on that stove is a very bad engineering decision!! The access to it that is...

 

[Paul C.]

Inline fuses are a great idea. a 5 amp fuse will carry 600w. Would def. blow before the board fuse. The board fuse on that stove is a very bad engineering decision!! The access to it that is...

I can’t agree more! I’ve taken the board out probably 10x in the 8 years I’ve had the stove. Unplugging all those wires makes me nervous-some of those connections aren’t too sturdy...
@kappel15 - looks like I’m getting 120V from the power supply to the control board, but no voltage at the igniter terminal on the control board. I’m certain the fuse is good-I just replaced it, and haven’t heard it blow. Is my control board toast, you think? I was having a LOT of blown control board fuses in late 2019... wondering if whatever caused that finally let go for good? I appreciate your help & insight! Thank you!

 

[rickwai]

The only wat to know is to pull the board and verify the fuse is good

 

[Paul C.]

I just did that last night as I’m troubleshooting. Assuming it is good-any ideas on what else it could be? Granted this is the original board, so it’s about 10 yrs old...

 

[Ssyko]

Chech the fuse for continuity, I’ve seen what looks like a good fuse actually is not!

 

[Paul C.]

Chech the fuse for continuity, I’ve seen what looks like a good fuse actually is not!

Good point! If I can avoid buying a $500 control board, that’d be great!

 

[kappel15]

I would also check connections. kap

 

[Paul C.]

I think I got it! Looks like the fuse blew so hard, it took out a piece of the copper ribbon that connects the input from the power supply to the igniter fuse... time to break out the soldering iron!

 

[Paul C.]

I think I got it! Looks like the copper strip from the power supply to the igniter fuse blew apart!

 

[WarrenZ.]

How To Replace The Igniter On A Mt Vernon AE

 

[heat seeker]

Looks like the trace sacrificed itself in order to save the fuse..

 

[Paul C.]

Looks like the trace sacrificed itself in order to save the fuse..

Right!? Seems kinda backwards... but at least I figured it out. Soldering now-will post pics if this works! Side note: I need better tools to do intricate electrical work...

 

[ABusWrench]

Looks like the trace sacrificed itself in order to save the fuse..

Possibly not the correct fuse?

 

[heat seeker]

Quite possible - I can't really tell from the pic, but it looks like it may be a slow-blow fuse, and traces are usually a "fast-blow" item, as they have no thermal mass to speak of.