Mt Vernon AE Missed Ignition Advice

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.

Potsy

New Member
Apr 6, 2022
13
Ocean City MD
Hello - I have a 2008 Mt Vernon AE. I have read the other posts on folks with missed ignition on this model. I put the meter on the igniter and they both tested at around 46 ohms. I then took the control box off and checked the fuse - fuse is good. When disconnecting the control board, I noticed that the white connection on the bottom left of the control board (when hooked up) was a "burnt" looking white. I thought I read that maybe I need to replace the control board at this point but wanted to confirm before spending that money - my quad dealer is busy through May so its down to me and whatever help I can get from folks like you. The other obvious question is, if I need to replace the control board, is what ever made it go bad going to do it again or did it just go based on age? I tried to clean that burnt looking white connection but I am still not lighting. Thanks in advance for any help!
 

kappel15

Minister of Fire
Sep 14, 2014
2,543
Iowa
I post periodically to check the power supply harness to the control board. When you see the white connection starting to go brown, it is time to change the power supply harness, before it toasts the control board. Now is just the wire harness connection bad, or did it toast the board already ? And you can bench test the igniter, using a pc of ext. cord. Just be careful as they get hot quick. Otherwise just a continuity test will work. kap
 

Potsy

New Member
Apr 6, 2022
13
Ocean City MD
I post periodically to check the power supply harness to the control board. When you see the white connection starting to go brown, it is time to change the power supply harness, before it toasts the control board. Now is just the wire harness connection bad, or did it toast the board already ? And you can bench test the igniter, using a pc of ext. cord. Just be careful as they get hot quick. Otherwise just a continuity test will work. kap
Thanks! I was hoping you would chime in! So all other functions of the stove seem to be working - it send pellets, cleans, etc. I'll order the power supply harness now - I'll need one either way so thats a reasonable place to start. I can bench test the igniter - I have three here and all of them OHM tested good but I'll bench one anyway. Thanks so much for the reply - I live in Ocean City MD so our heating season is almost over but we miss not having it just to take the chill off and we need to be ready to turn on in the fall!
 

Potsy

New Member
Apr 6, 2022
13
Ocean City MD
It sounds like I will need to buy a power supply regardless right? I can easily start there then get a board if needed. Not sure how to test the board? I checked voltage at the burnt connection and it did have 120 where it would plug in to the control board - does that mean that the control board is shot? Thank you for your help!
 

kappel15

Minister of Fire
Sep 14, 2014
2,543
Iowa
And are you sure you checked the right fuse for the igniter ? And did you check for power coming from the wire harness for the igniter? And they do make an igniter wire harness, with inline fuses, so you don't have to take the control board out to get at it. kap
 

Potsy

New Member
Apr 6, 2022
13
Ocean City MD
And are you sure you checked the right fuse for the igniter ? And did you check for power coming from the wire harness for the igniter? And they do make an igniter wire harness, with inline fuses, so you don't have to take the control board out to get at it. kap
Well.... great points! I checked the little glass fuse in the control board - is that the correct one? I will check for power coming to the igniter and post asap! Thank you!
 

kappel15

Minister of Fire
Sep 14, 2014
2,543
Iowa
There are two fuses in the control board. One is for the igniter. kap
 

Potsy

New Member
Apr 6, 2022
13
Ocean City MD
There are two fuses in the control board. One is for the igniter. kap
Sorry for slow reply - vacation in the warm made me forget about my stove. Both fuses appear good on main board. As you will see in the pic, my power supply is burnt and I cannot tell if this fuse is burnt or not - all the other fuses do not have that bulge in the middle? Next step order new power supply cord (white) and replace fuse? Or we got bigger problems? Thank you!

fuse.jpg power supply.jpg
 

kappel15

Minister of Fire
Sep 14, 2014
2,543
Iowa
You can do a continuity test on the fuse to see if it is good. And you definately need a new power supply cord. It is a process of finding where the power stops. kap
 

Potsy

New Member
Apr 6, 2022
13
Ocean City MD
You can do a continuity test on the fuse to see if it is good. And you definately need a new power supply cord. It is a process of finding where the power stops. kap
I confirmed the fuse is good with multimeter. I will order the new power cord now - are there any other tests I can do while I am waiting for the new cord to arrive? Thanks again for the help!
 

Potsy

New Member
Apr 6, 2022
13
Ocean City MD
I confirmed the fuse is good with multimeter. I will order the new power cord now - are there any other tests I can do while I am waiting for the new cord to arrive? Thanks again for the help!
Kap - when i get the power cord, is my next step to hook it up and try to ignite it or are things downstream still at risk? Thank you!
 

kappel15

Minister of Fire
Sep 14, 2014
2,543
Iowa
Was reading above posts and you commented that you had power up to the control board ? Now you need a new power supply harness regardless, but if you had power up to the control board and fuse was good, it could indicate bad control board. And no, hooking it up is ok. kap
 

Potsy

New Member
Apr 6, 2022
13
Ocean City MD
Was reading above posts and you commented that you had power up to the control board ? Now you need a new power supply harness regardless, but if you had power up to the control board and fuse was good, it could indicate bad control board. And no, hooking it up is ok. kap
Got my new power cord last eve - hooked it up, plugged stove in and it did start up for crazy long time but did not light. Time to order control board? If so, I saw something about a harness that goes to the control board for ease of future use - should I grab one of those as well? Thank you very much!
 

kappel15

Minister of Fire
Sep 14, 2014
2,543
Iowa
Yes, they make a wire harness with inline fuses, so you don't have to undo control board, to get at a fuse. Before you buy a control board, i would double check power as to where it ends. And you never showed a pic of the control board so we could see if it was burnt. And make sure when you put igniter back, you hung the wires up in the slot, to keep em out of the way of the auto clean. kap
 

Potsy

New Member
Apr 6, 2022
13
Ocean City MD
Yes, they make a wire harness with inline fuses, so you don't have to undo control board, to get at a fuse. Before you buy a control board, i would double check power as to where it ends. And you never showed a pic of the control board so we could see if it was burnt. And make sure when you put igniter back, you hung the wires up in the slot, to keep em out of the way of the auto clean. kap
A66435C8-A919-437E-AC5C-09122B15EDD5.jpeg
 

Potsy

New Member
Apr 6, 2022
13
Ocean City MD
Thanks for all the help. It only appears burnt where the powers went in. It still auto cleans, blower comes on, etc. only missing the igniter as far as I can tell. Thanks
 

kappel15

Minister of Fire
Sep 14, 2014
2,543
Iowa
You have to remember, that plug is for igniter only. It is 120v. The other power supply harness runs rest of stove, which is 12v. kap
 

Potsy

New Member
Apr 6, 2022
13
Ocean City MD
You have to remember, that plug is for igniter only. It is 120v. The other power supply harness runs rest of stove, which is 12v. kap
Thanks. Two interesting changes. One is my low hopper light is on on the wall thermostat but it’s full and for some reason the blower on the back right side of the unit (facing front of stove) does not shut off even after the missed ignition. I think it’s time to get a new board and harness and hope that gets it going for the next 14 years! It’s been almost trouble free all that time and if they still made this self cleaning unit, I would order another for our second home!!!
 

kappel15

Minister of Fire
Sep 14, 2014
2,543
Iowa
Low hopper light could mean the switch is mis-aligned, and needing adjustment, to start. Could be other issues as well. Exhaust fan is on right side of stove. This does take a while to shut off, even after a missed ignition. kap
 

Potsy

New Member
Apr 6, 2022
13
Ocean City MD
Low hopper light could mean the switch is mis-aligned, and needing adjustment, to start. Could be other issues as well. Exhaust fan is on right side of stove. This does take a while to shut off, even after a missed ignition. kap
Thanks - I have tried everything I know to do - my last question is -- based on replacing the burnt power cord, would you recommend i order a new control board and the new harness with the added fuses along with a new igniter? Obviously my fear is I will cook another $600 board quickly if I am missing something.... I can have the techs come out but I am always leary of spending that money for their time to come to the conclusion that they should simply throw parts at it (same conclusion I came to without the labor rate....) Appreciate all your help and thoughts - thank you!
 

EbS-P

Minister of Fire
Jan 19, 2019
2,693
SE North Carolina
So try this. Unplug.. set thermostat to call for heat plug in. Anything??? My dads get stuck in a startup loop and this is the only way to get it up and running after the board has lost power.
 

Potsy

New Member
Apr 6, 2022
13
Ocean City MD
So try this. Unplug.. set thermostat to call for heat plug in. Anything??? My dads get stuck in a startup loop and this is the only way to get it up and running after the board has lost power.
Thanks for the thought - however, I don't have the 12v back up so my thermostat is not powered if not plugged in. I did pull it off the wall to look for a place for batteries but no go. Thanks!
 

kappel15

Minister of Fire
Sep 14, 2014
2,543
Iowa
Main thing is to follow power and see where it is, and where it ends. This tells you what the issue is you have. kap