Mystery Cylinder (Safe?)

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fhon

Member
Jan 24, 2013
88
PA
Hello all and thank you in advance for any advice.
Currently I'm building a log splitter and am sourcing old parts to keep it cheap. I really don't want to have to buy a new hydraulic cylinder. But most of what I'm able to find doesn't have any good information to identify the cylinder, so it's impossible to find any specs on them.

I know a lot of members have made their own splitters. So how are you sure of the limits of your cylinder? If it's not rated properly or in poor condition is it usually just the main seal that fails?

Below is a picture of what I'm planning to use. As a bonus question... Could anyone tell me what the name of the fitting I would need on the rod? the mounts on the top of the cylinder are perfect and I need the same one on the rod.
cylinder.png
 
Maybe if you have a place near you that makes hydraulic hoses they could tell you, take the cylinder to them, and they could do the hoses while you're at it. Not sure where in PA you are but there are 2 places I know of within a 20 minute drive from me
 
I texted my Amish mafiosas that work at our quarries out that way to see where they get their hoses made. I'll get back to ya when I hear from them. Maybe try and google hydraulic hoses in your area?
 
My local NAPA makes hoses...
 
Thank you guys so much. I'll definitely bring it along when I get the hoses. I just now have the cylinder in my possession. According to the instructions on how to split wood on the side I'd say it's from a wood splitter ;lol. Even then I guess I can't assume anything about the PSI rating right?

Also, any one know the name of the piece I need for attaching the piston to the push plate? I can't find it anywhere. Probably because I have no idea what it's called.
piston.jpg

push_plate.jpg
 
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IMG_0372.PNG


Those threaded pieces welded to the side of the cylinder are trunnions
 
Its called a yoke...you will need to measure the rod diameter...should be able to find that at a Tractor supply store...Rural...King...TSC...Blains...or whatever they are called in your part of the country. You may also be able to find it here with a phone call...

http://www.splitez.com/logsplitter_cylinders.html

https://www.grainger.com/category/ecatalog/N-1z0dwsv

https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn/Motion-Control-Fluid-Power/Rod-Ends-Yokes/Yokes?navid=12104225

That's it. Thanks!
 
That's it. Thanks!
Your welcome...can you identify the brand of pump you have? The reason i ask is it might help identify the PSI rating...most if not all of the 8-13 GMP pumps are rated at 3,000 PSI...the same as a lot of cylinders.
 
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Sorry to interrupt.. but the Amish carry cell phones? What is the world coming to? :)
Its true...lol...I had a metal roof put on this summer....and the Amish crew had a hired driver...to far to run the ponies....lol
 
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I don't have one yet. With the cylinder having an OD or 5" I'm thinking I should go 16 gpm minimum.
The guys at Splitez will help you and answer your questions...If I remember correctly they have a splitter building app. on their site..that would help you match proper components...
 
I don't have one yet. With the cylinder having an OD or 5" I'm thinking I should go 16 gpm minimum.
That would be a good idea.
 
This is driving me crazy. I still can't find the "yoke" or "rod clevis". Everything i find is threaded. I see these cylinders all the time with a straight rod and eye. What are people using to attached these to push plates or wedges?
 
This is driving me crazy. I still can't find the "yoke" or "rod clevis". Everything i find is threaded. I see these cylinders all the time with a straight rod and eye. What are people using to attached these to push plates or wedges?
Have the rod threaded or drill the threads out if you have to.
 
Why didn't I think of that.
Having the threads drilled out would be the cheapest route and write down what you bought in case you ever have to do it again. Any machine shop can do this for minimal cost.Take your cylinder with you
 
After thinking about it, couldn't I just cut 2 triangle pieces from 1/2" plate and weld them to the push plate. Then all I need is a 1/2" hole for the pin.
 
After thinking about it, couldn't I just cut 2 triangle pieces from 1/2" plate and weld them to the push plate. Then all I need is a 1/2" hole for the pin.
I don't see why not. I think the yoke would be a lot stronger and hold up better.