Some blowers have oil holes where a few drops a year prevents bearing failure. Others have sealed bearings. Look at both ends of the blower motor carefully.
At a minimum check the chimney flue for obstructions, we don't know if there is a screen on the top to prevent any thing from building nests in there, of it there is any creosote formation.
Fuel for a beginner (or anyone) is important to have seasoned (dried) correctly in advance.
Invest in a moisture meter, don't expect if buying "seasoned wood" that it is truly dry and ready to burn. Drying wood starts when split, not cut down or in rounds. Most firewood sellers would not have room to cut, split and store it correctly (off the ground) for a year or more to dry. You're looking for moisture content of 20% or less, or you will have problems.
When you go to start it, spin the air intake dampers open a few turns. This is the only time you will open them that far. As it catches, slowly close them as it comes up to temp. Add larger pieces keeping air space between all wood pieces. The more ways you divert the flame to bend around pieces, the more heat goes into the wood starting it easier. 1 turn or so is normal when up to temp, then you set them for desired heat output. Don't close them down too far trying to stretch wood or prolong overnight burns. That will load the flue with creosote quickly. You should have enough coals in the morning to build a new fire with kindling, open the air and it should take off. When you get good, you can keep it going 24/7 without needing a match to relight and never shut down to remove ash. Always burn on 1 inch ash minimum !
Best cycle for constant burning is each morning remove ash at the front where it burns down to very fine powder behind the intakes. Rake coals and a little ash ahead to start the new fire. Black pieces at the rear are charcoal, with a very low ignition temp to help get it started again. They don't burn due to lack of oxygen. If you get none, you had a bit too much air, burned it completely and possibly no coals either.
The Duration of a fire is considered if it will relight without a match. It will not be putting out much heat at the end of a long burn, but it is still considered the same burn until a match is needed. No one can tell you exactly how to run it since the chimney is the unknown factor, as well as changing air pressure and outside temperature which increases the draft naturally as it gets colder. You will find they are very sluggish when a storm approaches with a low pressure area, as well as warm days when the chimney doesn't have enough differential temperature to make it go. It takes years to learn each stove and chimney combination, so you will always be improving as you go. Don't expect to learn it overnight. Keep the basics in mind of what makes it go; heat in the chimney creating a vacuum in the stove to get oxygen to the fire.
