NC30... you all were right.

[bluedogz]

So it seems one of the secrets is to always leave a channel in front of the doghouse from front to back, and to use maybe 3-4 splits at a time. Once I quit stuffing the thing full, it shot up to 600 stovetop and stayed there.

Burn times aren't perfect yet, but 4 hours or so isn't so bad. If I stuff it to bursting it'll go overnight nicely.

 

[DexterDay]

I like to stuff it full and leave a gap. Ive found that the gap is crucial to me getting the.primary shut down further. If I block it, it cuts through the split and I only get flame in the very front of the box.

Leaving the channel provides secondary burn from all the tubes (mainly the front 3). Even if its a small gap. Its got to be right in the middle.

This load isnt packed tight. But more less a standard load. There have been some loads that others have posted, that Blow this out of the Water...

Ive seen others load them and block the doghouse. Some have removed the doghouse completely. Everyone is different. Different strokes for different folks.

 

[bluedogz]

I tried loading it much like your photo, Dexter, and had trouble getting it to hold steady above 500. But by removing the bottom middle split in your photo- the one in front of the doghouse- it now holds 600 easy.

Guess that's part of the learning curve in this dragon-to-EPA transition.

 

[DexterDay]

I took the pic a little off center. That gap in between those bottom splits is dead center in front on the Dog House hole. Putting a split over that channel. Forces the air to go all the way back in the.firebox, and roll up top across the baffle. Giving great flow. That load would be very easy lighting 12 hrs later.

 

[BurnIt13]

I wish I had some of your problems! No matter how I load my NC-30 is wants to run at 750 degrees! The more I load it the harder it is to get a stable temp. Reduce the air too much and it snuffs the fire, open it up a bit more to get the secondaries going and it turns into a fireball! Once the secondaries are going if I back the air down any lower and it starts to smolder.

Moral of my story....if the secondaries are lit the stove wants to run in the 700's or higher. I have to turn the blower on to cool the stovetop so it doesn't smell like new paint.

Temps verified with an IR gun. If I could maintain a 500-600 stove top I would probably get double the burn time!

 

[BobUrban]

Burnit13 - no idea what your set up is like but reading you post makes me think you may be someone who could benefit from a flue damper? Again, this is just speculation but I know some on here have used them to reduce "super draft" from rather tall chimney set ups, etc...

 

[BurnIt13]

Burnit13 - no idea what your set up is like but reading you post makes me think you may be someone who could benefit from a flue damper? Again, this is just speculation but I know some on here have used them to reduce "super draft" from rather tall chimney set ups, etc...

I don't want to derail the thread to much but you are probably right. We have 24ft of flue/stove pipe. This is my first year burning and my wood wasn't ideal (low-mid 20's on the MM) so I am going to reserve my judgement until after next year.

This year I didn't plan ahead and had to buy my "seasoned" wood from a dealer. I already have my 2012-13 wood split and stacked and it is in the low-20's already. Should actually be "seasoned" for next winter. I have a feeling I do have a strong draft but I think my experience and wood quality also played a part.

 

[DexterDay]

Mine runs in that 650-800 range too. Especially when you load it good and its outgassing at a good rate. Hard to stop that heat..

 

[n3pro]

I wish I had some of your problems! No matter how I load my NC-30 is wants to run at 750 degrees! The more I load it the harder it is to get a stable temp. Reduce the air too much and it snuffs the fire, open it up a bit more to get the secondaries going and it turns into a fireball! Once the secondaries are going if I back the air down any lower and it starts to smolder.

Moral of my story....if the secondaries are lit the stove wants to run in the 700's or higher. I have to turn the blower on to cool the stovetop so it doesn't smell like new paint.

Temps verified with an IR gun. If I could maintain a 500-600 stove top I would probably get double the burn time!

What's wrong with that? Unless I misunderstand 750 should be fine. 800 + all the time would be a problem but 750 don't sound bad too me. As read on another thread a small adjustment means a lot. If your going from roaring fire to smolder sounds like too much of an adjustment.

 

[Seasoned Oak]

All depends on the draft ,weak draft= cooler stove strong draft =hot stove my son has a 30 on a new tall chimney and he has trouble keeping it under 800 stovetop temps. I have one on a large chimney and i can barely hit 700.