Need a new hearth pad

[firefighterjake]

I bought a remnant from a granite shop for 75.00. Diamond blade from Lowes was 30.00 for my skill saw. Got my son to lightly spray the blade as I cut it. (plugged into a gfi) Cuts almost as easy as plywood. The polished surface is much easier to keep clean rather than something with joints such as brick or tile. I actually covered my old brick pad with it. I am very happy with my new pad.

There was another member here who used granite for their hearth . . . looked fantastic. Only consideration is folks that do so must still make sure the R value of their hearth (if required) is still met -- those with ember protection only of course have no worries.

 

[Jazzberry]

You couldnt light toilet paper soaked in gas with a blowtorch if it had a piece of 3/4 granite covering it. But I am sure some anal brain surgeon wrote a manual somewhere that will disagree with me.

 

[Highbeam]

You couldnt light toilet paper soaked in gas with a blowtorch if it had a piece of 3/4 granite covering it. But I am sure some anal brain surgeon wrote a manual somewhere that will disagree with me.

It is rather silly what some manufacturer's require under the stoves. We have members that could use no less than 8 layers of 1/2" durock just to prevent the heat from a modern stove above from starting the wooden subfloor on fire. As if that could ever happen with just four layers.

Any manufacturer that requires R-value greater than "spark protection" needs a kick in the butt. Make a stove adjustment, another layer of firebrick, whatever to prevent such silly requirements of the hearth. I can only vote with my wallet on this since I don't own a stove company but if I did, ember protection only or "you're fired!".

 

[begreen]

Granite is a better conductor than insulator. Solid stone actually conducts heat quite well. Stove companies try to protect the user from worst case scenarios like a 24/7 burner that has been pushing the stove at 7-800F for several days during a -25F winter. If the stove has an ashpan and bottom heatshielding then it could be fine. But not every stove or every user offers or buys this option. If not, then the bottom may get hot.

There are lots of installation variables too. Some folks want short leg kits to make their stoves clear installation requirements. That puts the belly of the fire closer to the hearth.

PS: The 30NC has a high hearth insulation value requirement and it is very popular. The reason is not lawyers but value. It costs a lot to re-engineer a stove and then re-certify it with extra shielding. That and the extra cost of manufacture needs to be passed onto the consumer.

 

[johnpma]

PS: The 30NC has a high hearth insulation value requirement and it is very popular. The reason is not lawyers but value. It costs a lot to re-engineer a stove and then re-certify it with extra shielding. That and the extra cost of manufacture needs to be passed onto the consumer.

My NC30 manual say R=1.5.........is that considered a "high insulation value" Where do most stove fall in regards to the "R" value??

 

[begreen]

Low end is "ember protection only". They go up from there. R=1.5 is a fairly stiff protection requirement, but they go higher. The 13-NC is R=2.0 and the champ I think is the Hearthstone Homestead with the short leg kit at R=6.6!

 

[firefighterjake]

As BeGreen said . . .heat conducts. The real issue in my opinion isn't necessarily the immediate heat transfer through the hearth material catching combustibles underneath on fire . . . but rather what the long term effects may be with the heat transfer . . . the whole pyrolysis deal . . . which is why even though I only needed ember protection I added some Durock for some R value protection as well.

 

[begreen]

You don't want to move the stove and find this.

 

[Jazzberry]

That sharp edge of completely different colors don't look like it was caused by a hearth pad. Unless some idiot built a campfire on on it. Cant fix stupid with r values.

 

[begreen]

It was a metal, ember protection only pan used for a stove that needed real hearth insulation protection. Some folks don't know the difference when they go online or to Walmart and buy a hearth protector pad.

 

[Jazzberry]

Seems if it was from a stove there would be a center burn area much darker then gradually less burning towards the edges. To me that looks more like sun fade with the shaded area caused by a welcome mat or similar.

 

[begreen]

It is from a stove and darker where the stove sat.

 

[johnpma]

so how hot do you think it got to discolor the poly on the floor.........I'd love to know what was there and what stove was there. If a stove was on legs and had air between the bottom of the stove and the floor protector would that cause this........subscribed to this one

 

[begreen]

This was from early days in a thread on pyrolysis. I don't recall much more than it being an older stove on a metal pan. I've no idea what temp the finish on the floor is rated at nor for how long the exposure was. Pyrolysis can happen at temps over 180F if sustained over a long period of time.

 

[Highbeam]

Looks like water damage along that one joint? Actually, looking close, that might be a sheet of vinyl or linoleum and not hardwood.

 

[begreen]

That's possible Highbeam.

 

[Jo191145]

I used a one inch thick piece of polished granit in front of my Fireview last year. The stove sits on the oversize flush hearth but the hearth isn't big enough. The granite might not be to code but I felt it was enough.
Well let me tell the doubters. That piece of granite got hot enough that bare footing it will make you jump

I raised the granite off the floor about half an inch to allow some air underneath and break contact. Helped greatly in keeping the wood underneath from getting too hot. Still not a legal install I'm sure but it worked.
Granite gets hot folks.

 

[johnpma]

One would think since air is a good insulator that directing some blower air beneath a stove would be very beneficial in a lot of ways