Need advice on how to proceed? Proper install of insert

[Dd1001]

I have been using my earthstove bayview400 for a few years now and I really like it, it heats up 2500 sq ft pretty well. However, I want it to be safe and more efficient. I currently don't have a flue attached, it's just sitting in the open fireplace, utilizing the existing flue (large)
I do my best to seal the faceplate abs surround as airtight as I can but it's futile. The fireplace was built in 1969 and it has a steel insert meant to utilize heat tubes which would have ambient air blown past them.
I want to install a 6 or 8 in insulated flue pipe, to increase efficiency. Which would mostly mean cutting the steel enclosure open to facilitate the flue pipe. Has
anyone seen an enclosure like this?
Any suggestions?

 

[bholler]

I have been using my earthstove bayview400 for a few years now and I really like it, it heats up 2500 sq ft pretty well. However, I want it to be safe and more efficient. I currently don't have a flue attached, it's just sitting in the open fireplace, utilizing the existing flue (large)
I do my best to seal the faceplate abs surround as airtight as I can but it's futile. The fireplace was built in 1969 and it has a steel insert meant to utilize heat tubes which would have ambient air blown past them.
I want to install a 6 or 8 in insulated flue pipe, to increase efficiency. Which would mostly mean cutting the steel enclosure open to facilitate the flue pipe. Has
anyone seen an enclosure like this?
Any suggestions?

Yup cut out enough to get the liner through. Your also going to have tons of cleaning to do

 

[Dd1001]

Yup cut out enough to get the liner through. Your also going to have tons of cleaning to do

Is this steel enclosure common?

 

[begreen]

Is this steel enclosure common?

Heatform style fireplaces are fairly common, especially those of the 1970-1980 vintage. Your plan is a good one. The shiny black glaze creosote is indicative of dangerous build up that must be removed, all the way to the top of the chimney flue.

 

[bholler]

Is this steel enclosure common?

Yes they are absolutely

 

[Dd1001]

Heatform style fireplaces are fairly common, especially those of the 1970-1980 vintage. Your plan is a good one. The shiny black glaze creosote is indicative of dangerous build up that must be removed, all the way to the top of the chimney flue.

Thank you for your time and advice, appreciate it

 

[Dd1001]

Any opinion as to whether I should go with an 8" insulated flue or an 8 to 6" ??

 

[bholler]

Any opinion as to whether I should go with an 8" insulated flue or an 8 to 6" ??

What size is the collar on the stove? I think they were all 8 but im not sure

 

[Dd1001]

What size is the collar on the stove? I think they were all 8 but im not sure

Its 8" but would it draw better reduced to 6"?

 

[bholler]

Its 8" but would it draw better reduced to 6"?

No reducing to 6 will drastically reduce the volume of air going through the stove

 

[Dd1001]

Removing the heatform insert sure is a pain in the a$$ to cut in order to run an 8" flue thru. Ive tried a plasma cutter, metal saw, i might switch to oxy/acetelyne tomorrow, then maybe dynamite

 

[bholler]

Removing the heatform insert sure is a pain in the a$$ to cut in order to run an 8" flue thru. Ive tried a plasma cutter, metal saw, i might switch to oxy/acetelyne tomorrow, then maybe dynamite

I just use a sawzall 30 t 40 mins and its done

 

[Dd1001]

I can't imagine a sawzall would handle that. It's 1/4 thick. I'll try with a new blade........

 

[bholler]

I can't imagine a sawzall would handle that. It's 1/4 thick. I'll try with a new blade........

It does. I usually use a combination of cutting wheels and different length sawzall blades

 

[Dd1001]

It does. I usually use a combination of cutting wheels and different length sawzall blades

Well, I did it, a sawzall is probably the best option, I tried oxy/acetelyne, plasma cutter, high speed grinder and they weren't as good as the sawzall. The oxy/acetelyne is a fire hazard waiting to happen. The inside layer of steel is nearly 1/4 . Its a tough job,
Wear a face shield, with a breathing mask. Prepare to look like a coal miner when done. I got enough creosote /ash/etc to completely fill a 50 gal trash can. It was a fire hazard. The heatform insert can hide a lot of debris on top and sides over the years. Now, I'm working on purchasing the 8" insulated pipe, no one seems to carry it, even woodstove stores, they all carry 6". Best price is lowes/homedepot but you must order it.
I need 2 -45 degree sections for the offset (very expensive) should I use single wall in the offset and then double wall the rest of the way?

 

[Dd1001]

Well, I did it, a sawzall is probably the best option, I tried oxy/acetelyne, plasma cutter, high speed grinder and they weren't as good as the sawzall. The oxy/acetelyne is a fire hazard waiting to happen. The inside layer of steel is nearly 1/4 . Its a tough job,
Wear a face shield, with a breathing mask. Prepare to look like a coal miner when done. I got enough creosote /ash/etc to completely fill a 50 gal trash can. It was a fire hazard. The heatform insert can hide a lot of debris on top and sides over the years. Now, I'm working on purchasing the 8" insulated pipe, no one seems to carry it, even woodstove stores, they all carry 6". Best price is lowes/homedepot but you must order it.
I need 2 -45 degree sections for the offset (very expensive) should I use single wall in the offset and then double wall the rest of the way?

 

[Dd1001]

After cutting the access hole

 

[Ctwoodtick]

Pro-tip- Don’t tip over that garbage can, lol

 

[begreen]

Well, I did it, a sawzall is probably the best option, I tried oxy/acetelyne, plasma cutter, high speed grinder and they weren't as good as the sawzall. The oxy/acetelyne is a fire hazard waiting to happen. The inside layer of steel is nearly 1/4 . Its a tough job,
Wear a face shield, with a breathing mask. Prepare to look like a coal miner when done. I got enough creosote /ash/etc to completely fill a 50 gal trash can. It was a fire hazard. The heatform insert can hide a lot of debris on top and sides over the years. Now, I'm working on purchasing the 8" insulated pipe, no one seems to carry it, even woodstove stores, they all carry 6". Best price is lowes/homedepot but you must order it.
I need 2 -45 degree sections for the offset (very expensive) should I use single wall in the offset and then double wall the rest of the way?

Will flexible liner be going in to connect the stove. If so, no need for the 45s as long as there is room for the insulated liner. What kind of chimney is on the heatform, masonry or metal?