Need Advise after Chimney Fire...

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jodebg

New Member
Sep 16, 2013
2
Last Thursday we had a chimney fire.

Looks like its time to line the chimney. We operate a 1984 Stadler
Wood Boiler with a built in thermostatic control on this flu.

Looking at SS liners as well as a poured in Supaflu liner.

No experience with either and would like to know the benefits and
drawbacks to both types of liners.

Does the creosote stick to the poured in the Supaflu liner like my old flu tiles
making it nearly impossible to fully clean this style flu?

I have been told that the creosote does not adhere to the SS liner and is very easy to clean.

One company suggested an oval SS liner due to the fact that our flu was built with a bend around the
fireplace. We have a central fireplace/chimney with 4 flues and 2 fireplaces. Approximately 30 foot run.

Our question is how easy is the oval SS liner going to be to clean and if there a special brush for the oval pipe?

What is the best brand and quality of SS liners? I was told the HomeSaver Brand is the best and that their
Pro line is superior to their UltraPro line?

Is Supaflu the best brand of poured in liner?

Does the poured in liner hold up..cracking, deterioration, etc.?

All feedback will be appreciated/thanks.
 
One main advantage of the SS liner, is you can install it yourself, saving you hundreds.

What is the size of the flue outlet on the boiler and the inside measurements of the flue you want to line?
 
What is the height of the chimney? You could very well use a 5.5" liner. With a taller chimney many people say the 5.5" liner drafts better than a 6". This way you could stay with a round liner and it might fit with insulation.

Could you get the exact inside measurements of the flue? If it wont fit, yes you could get and oval liner to fit easily with insulation.
 
We've used products from this company for years. Their "ForeverFlex" liner is the best I've found and they have all the accessories to go along with the liner including insulation. Made in both 316Ti and AL29-4C alloys which are bullet proof
I do not know if they will sell direct to you or if you have to go through a heating professional to get it
http://www.olympiachimney.com/
 
Use whatever liner you want. If you don't quit burning that green/wet wood in the thing you will still have chimney fires. The answer to not having creosote stick to the chimney walls/liner is burn dry wood hot. And not make the stuff.

Argue all you want. You just had the proof happen.
 
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Use whatever liner you want. If you don't quit burning that green/wet wood in the thing you will still have chimney fires. The answer to not having creosote stick to the chimney walls/liner is burn dry wood hot. And not make the stuff.

Argue all you want. You just had the proof happen.

I get your point, but creosote can happen from dry wood too. I know, I burned dry wood for 17 years and had to sweep my chimney 4 times a year.

So don't assume someone is burning green/wet wood & condemn them for it if you really don't know for sure - any conventional wood boiler can pump it out easily no matter how dry the wood is.
 
I agree with Maple dry wood being (Boiled)not burned when a standard boiler is in standby idle mode can generate a lot of bad stuff in the chimney .Had one of these in the late 70's it required weekly chimney fires to keep the flue clean ,as the ooze in the chimney would just turn a flue brush into a ball of tar .

For the question on the liner I have no advice .If you want to get away from chimney fires go with gasification with storage . With a gasification boiler and storage I can go years between cleanings!

Months after a cleaning.
IMGP4409.JPG
 
The equation is as follows

Properly seasoned wood+gasification = thermal storage=clean burning

Drop out any segment of that formula and you have a dirty burn or at least less than optimal burn
 
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