Need advise on a chimney - pole barn

[Longsnowsm]

Well I just recently pulled the trigger on an NC30 at the killer sale price at HD. It should be showing up next week some time. I won't be installing it right away in the barn as I have a framing and insulation project to do first for the workshop end of the barn.

In the mean time I want to get all the pieces and parts lined up and ready for the next phase of the project. I am a little confused on the chimney options and what would be recommended for my application. Near as I can tell my best option is a through the wall chimney. I have read here that I should be looking for a Class A double wall chimney for the outside segments. For the inside I am seeing a variety of ideas here on the forum as to double or single wall inside.

At my local big box stores it looks like the Supervent stuff by Selkirk is double wall class A. Can you guys recommend an affordable solution for my application? I understand that the entire chimney and vent solution needs to be the same manufacturer for the entire thing. I would also like to get something that gives me the option to have a damper in the pipe to help control the burn with the NC30.

What do you guys recommend? Thanks!

 

[begreen]

Usually the best option is going straight up through the roof. Take a look at this installation for ideas.
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/installed-englander-30nc.115825/

 

[Longsnowsm]

It looks like Highbeam has wood sheathing and a conventional framing in his barn. Mine is just old fashioned metal roof with no wood sheathing. All you have in the roof of these buildings is 2x4 purlins spaced and 2ft spacing that the metal roofing is screwed down on. So I am not sure that a straight up through the roof install is going to work.

I would love to get some feedback on that however since I am certainly not a construction expert. That is why I started looking at the through the wall install as I know where the studs and purlins are for taking up up the end of the barn and should have the structural integrity to support it. Also I wasn't sure about cutting into that metal roof and just how that would be sealed. I have watched a bunch of videos with flashing install on a asphalt roof, but not much in an application like this with a barn. So I am still confused on how that would work if I did take it out through the roof.

 

[begreen]

Through the wall will also work. The parts are a bit more expensive and the chimney needs to be high enough to meet the 10-3-2 rule which means in order to get the chimney high enough, bracing may be needed off the roof. I suggest downloading Selkirk's installation guide. That has illustrations of this style install that should be helpful.

 

[Highbeam]

My polebarn is built like a regular pole barn with purlins on the roof but I "sticked" out the interior and attached regular roofing instead of screwing metal down. I have worked on installs where the roof purlins were normal upright on edge and the metal roof attached to them. Sounds like your purlins are laid flat the weak way and maybe your trusses are closer together? Your roof system just needs to be able to support the chimney. If your trusses are like 4 feet apart then you could frame a support for the chimney beneath the purlins. There are many ways to build a pole barn. Until we know how yours is built, photos, then we can't say the best way.

The side wall has the same issue. Girts are basicly the same thing as those flat purlins. You would need to provide something stronger for chimney mounting.

For several reasons, all vertical is the superior installation. Class A is the silver expensive stove and only needed after you penetrate the first roof, wall, or ceiling. Below that line you can use the cheaper black pipe whether single wall or double wall down to the stove. I used single wall in the barn, and double wall in the house.

They make flashings to seal the chimney penetration of a metal roof. Happens all the time.

 

[Longsnowsm]

Thanks for the feedback Highbeam. As soon as I pick a contractor who can help me get the framing done I will talk to them about how to go straight up through the roof. On the pipe to be used, I see that HD sells the Duravent stuff which is triple wall, and Lowes is selling the Supervent(Selkirk) double wall. I see that the triple wall is also insulated, but it does not state it is class A. What are your thoughts between these two products? Or is there something else out there that I should be considering in addition to this? Thanks.

 

[Highbeam]

I would not recommend triple wall. That is air cooled stuff, old school and big. You want class A chimney. It will be double wall, SS inside and out, and insulated. I use duravent for all of my chimneys and have been impressed with the quality. The duravent roof flashing is also a nice piece compared to the other brands.

You can order pipe and other chimney products online delivered to your door. My last chimney required parts from two online vendors, both purchases made through amazon.com.

You want duratech not duraplus.

http://www.amazon.com/DuraVent-6DT-...d=1443040025&sr=1-8&keywords=class+a+duravent

 

[begreen]

DuraVent makes two versions of class A pipe. DuraPlus is their value line. It is triple-wall with the inner layer insulated and the outer layer an air jacket. DuraPlus 6" pipe is 10" OD. DuraTech is their premium line class A. It is double-wall insulated and 8" OD for 6" pipe. Both will do the job safely. That said, our chimneys are both DuraTech. The additional cost is trivial over the life of the system.

 

[Longsnowsm]

Thanks guys this is exactly what I wanted to know. This helps me a great deal. Now I will start shopping to figure out where to get it at a reasonable price.