Need help with Jotul F600

[Sealcove]

I have an F600 (Blue Black enamel coated if it matters) that I purchased new in 2008, first put into use for the 08/09 winter season. It has been my primary heat source for 11+ seasons now, though living in a efficient newer home I only burn about 3 cords a year. It has been a great stove, but for a handful of years now I have noticed a decline in my ability to control the stove. What I have done in the last two years in hopes of addressing the issue:

• Replaced the baffles over the firebox and blanket above (they were in rough shape)
• Re-Gasketed every door and the glass (using the Jotul specified 1/4" and 3/8" sizes)
• Replaced the intake controls (sliding control plate, control lever and fastener)
• Checked and tightened accessible fasteners
• Replaced caulking along every seam I can reach

None of this has helped and my problem has continued to worsen. Infact, as of this season I no longer trust my ability to control the stove for a full burn and I am left to only have smaller fires to insure no runaways.

After closer analysis, I realized that I had somehow missed poor seals on the ash pan door (yes, I know that is bad), as well as the right front door. The side door and left front door provide excellent seals via a dollar bill test. I replaced the gaskets on the bad doors again as a precaution with no improvement. I can easily pull a bill from each door when latched (it is especially easy with the ash pan door, where there is very little resistance). Both doors look to be square on the hinges and lining up with the mating side on the stove as I would expect. The ash pan are is clear and the door is not touching the ash pan (same issue with the pan removed). Also, the latches/handles appear to be doing their job appropriately.

I know cast iron is less prone to warping, but I do have a reasonable fear that an ex-spouse may have accidentally overfired this stove and probably more than once. Could the stove itself now be out of kilter, or do I have something else going on? Is going up a gasket size to improve the door seals an option or a no-no?

Any thoughts on troubleshooting this one would be greatly appreciated.

 

[moresnow]

You may want to order the actual original gasket directly from a dealer. Unless that is what you already have done? There are differences in gasket material density and that may be your issue.

 

[webby3650]

OEM gasket is important. Somehow, sizes vary greatly between brands even though they are same “size”. Make certain you aren’t stretching the gasket as you lay it in the channel.

 

[begreen]

Yes, my first question was did you use OEM gaskets or something else? Ask the dealer if they have OEM gasket material. Some don't and just sell generic. Also, has the area behind the ashpan been cleaned well? Ash can build up there and become rock hard.

 

[Sealcove]

Thank you for these responses. Gasket material I used is not OEM, so there is an excellent starting point. Anyone have a reliable source that I can count on being from Jotul? Local dealer has in on spools with no parkings on the ends that would indicate it being from Jotul.

begreen, ash pan area is very clean. I have always been a stickler about keeping that space clean, but have been double checking and using an old screw driver to verify. Again, door won't seal even with ash pan removed as a secondary verification.

 

[begreen]

I had lousy results with aftermarket door gasket. Tried 2 and had the same problems as you note. One was only on there for 2 fires. After that I bought the OEM gasket and the results were perfect.
There is a Jotul universal gasket kit out that I believe is OEM.

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[Sealcove]

Thanks, ordering the Jotul kit and will replace everything again. I am guessing it wont be until next week, but will be sure to report back with my results.

Thank you!

 

[webby3650]

Thanks, ordering the Jotul kit and will replace everything again. I am guessing it wont be until next week, but will be sure to report back with my results.

Thank you!

Be certain not to stretch the gasket.

 

[Sealcove]

Be certain not to stretch the gasket.

Thanks, I thought I did a good job, but I am going to be extra careful this go around. I also know to use a very small bead of cement so the gasket is not overly loaded up and then inflexible.

Do folks tend to replace them with the doors on or off? I have been taking them off to have a good work space and have them flat, but perhaps it is better to leave the doors on, tape the gaskets in place and test the seals before cementing in? My side door has a rock solid seal, but I may have just done a better job or that one is less finicky.

 

[begreen]

Last time I used RTV and it worked way better than the older gasket cement. I put down what I'd call a moderate bead, maybe 1/4". It was generous enough to assure ample contact with the gasket and yet there was very little ooze.

 

[Sealcove]

Last time I used RTV and it worked way better than the older gasket cement. I put down what I'd call a moderate bead, maybe 1/4". It was generous enough to assure ample contact with the gasket and yet there was very little ooze.

Is there a particular RTV product that has an ample temp rating? I don't particularly like working with retgular gasket cement, so would be happy to try RTV.

 

[xman23]

I never did OEM gaskets. I don't use the front door. It tests good so I haven't replaced it. The sides been done a few times. My ash door was loose. So I went up a 1/16 or so. It's much better. High temp RTV is the way to go.

We need a different thread started. " Gasket material / construction and sources."

 

[begreen]

Is there a particular RTV product that has an ample temp rating? I don't particularly like working with retgular gasket cement, so would be happy to try RTV.

Most of the stoves just use black RTV and that is what Rutland RTV is. Rated at 500º. Seems fine. I used red RTV on the T6, rated at 600º. It's doing well too.

 

[Woody Stover]

Permatex Ultra Copper is rated for 700 intermittent but the door frame never gets that hot, as it is shielded by the front panel of the stove.

 

[Sealcove]

Thanks again for the help and the clear recommendation to chuck the generic gaskets and get the Jotul kit. It arrived today and I installed with black 500F RTV. Could tell they were different from the moment I closed each door. Dramatically better seal.

I still don't think the ask pan door is as snug as it should be, in that the other doors will hold a stip of paper so firmly it will tear before being pulled out, but not the ash pan gasket. It is has a far firmer hold on the paper with the new gasket, but I can still pull it out. That said, fire burning now, up to temp and well under control, so maybe it is fine.

Thanks again, I just assumed 1/4 and 3/8 gasket would be pretty consistent across brands, but clearly not.

 

[Woody Stover]

ash pan gasket. It is has a far firmer hold on the paper with the new gasket, but I can still pull it out. That said, fire burning now, up to temp and well under control, so maybe it is fine.

As long as the paper doesn't pull out very easily, it should still be sealing OK.

 

[begreen]

Thanks again for the help and the clear recommendation to chuck the generic gaskets and get the Jotul kit. It arrived today and I installed with black 500F RTV. Could tell they were different from the moment I closed each door. Dramatically better seal.

I still don't think the ask pan door is as snug as it should be, in that the other doors will hold a stip of paper so firmly it will tear before being pulled out, but not the ash pan gasket. It is has a far firmer hold on the paper with the new gasket, but I can still pull it out. That said, fire burning now, up to temp and well under control, so maybe it is fine.

Thanks again, I just assumed 1/4 and 3/8 gasket would be pretty consistent across brands, but clearly not.

Good to hear you're back in business.