Need info help Please; MORSO Made in Denmark??

[kyles974]

Hello to all. First post here.
Been reading threw, very nice people here

Any how, I searched and couldn't find any info on this stove. I'm thinking of buying this. I live in NW Florida, so I'm sure one cord a season is all I would burn, but needed some help on info for this wood burning stove. Any help would be great. It is listed for $300.

Says MOROSO and Made in Denmark

Thank you.

 

[tinker]

Hello-

Although I know nothing about the stove you show in the photos, I can suggest that you correct the spelling of the maker.
Moroso is the spelling of an auto parts maker, Moros is the spelling of the maker of stoves in Denmark.
You might get better results in your google searches with the different spelling.


Do you know what model of that stove?




Cheers
Tinker

 

[firefighterjake]

Hello-

Although I know nothing about the stove you show in the photos, I can suggest that you correct the spelling of the maker.
Moroso is the spelling of an auto parts maker, Moros is the spelling of the maker of stoves in Denmark.
You might get better results in your google searches with the different spelling.


Do you know what model of that stove?




Cheers
Tinker

Actually I think you're thinking of Morso . . . not Moroso or Moros.

 

[firefighterjake]

It does look like a Morso . . . older model . . . as Tinker mentioned Morso is a well known and respected maker of stoves out of Denmark . . . as for this particular stove . . . don't know much . . . but some other smarter (and better looking) folks should be along to comment on this in a few hours.

 

[tinker]

Spelling error.
Darn these little web-phones.
Laptop is on the fritz.
Definitely meant to spell it Morso.

...and that's my point.
Spelling errors in a google search can cost you information.
For that stove, I would do a google image search for the word Morso, and see if anything comes up that looks like the photo of the stove in question, then go from there.
That's what I did with my 1bO stove, and that's how I found this place!


Also, consider emailing Morso in Denmark.
They might be able to help with some information.






Cheers
Tinker

 

[thechimneysweep]

some other smarter (and better looking) folks should be along to comment on this in a few hours.

Wow, it must be vintage Morso week here on the forum. This one's a Morso model 1125, built back in the 1980s, and it looks to be in excellent condition. Cast iron with baked-on porcelain finish, it can be set up for top or rear venting by exchanging the flue collar and cover plate. Can be burned w/doors open, fireplace-style (see if the seller has the clip-on spark screen), or in closed-door mode for more efficient heating. The triangular dimples weren't just decorative: according to Morso, they were incorporated to increase the surface area and diffuse the radiant energy. Draft control is accomplished via the hollow handle: once engaged, it allows less air to the fire as you continue to turn it. If your code jurisdiction allows installation of non-EPA stoves, this old workhorse would be a good buy, and should look spiffy next to that green shag carpet.

 

[begreen]

Matches the avocado green kitchen appliances too I hope.

IIRC that was a pretty serious heater in its day.

 

[labrador]

I had one of these and it heated the whole house, which is in upstate New York. It is still in use and I had to sell it in order to close the deal on the house. It will probably cook you out in florida. One cord should be more than enough. Good luck with it. I think they sold in the 1980's for $2000.

 

[VTHC]

I just replaced this stove this past winter due to the door cracking.

It is a SERIOUS heater - it will blast you out of your home in Florida... This sucker heated our 1900 s.f. home no problem in the dead of VT winters. If you burn it hot (and it likes to burn hot) it is a fairly clean burning stove for a smoke dragon.
$350 isn't a bad price either... Make sure the steel baffle in the firebox is not warped, and all the firebricks are intact. Also, look for any cracks along the vertical lines in the casting of the doors - that is where mine cracked.

 

[VTHC]

Forgot to mention... You will need 30" clearances to combustibles and 8" pipe. So keep that in mind if you go for it.

 

[kyles974]

Thanks to all that replied!

I used yahoo search, for it auto corrects spelling

Ya, I figured it probally would blast us out here in FL. (I'm from Michigan and used to burn 3-4 cords in the winter)
But, the darn blood has thinned out, and I get cold when it hit below 70 degrees
and last winter we got in the low 30's for two weeks and I didn 't go outside for more than 1/2 hr

Thank you again, nice site (in my favorites)

 

[kborndale]

I still use that stove every winter, its in my basement and it heats the basement and the first floor just fine. I contacted morso and got a manual from them, its a pdf file which I tried to attachbut it said I can only attach image files, if anybody wants the manual pm me an email address and I would be glad to send it.

 

[mmiller]

I just bought one of these, though not the beautiful enameled kind. It is an awesome looking stove. We wanted something to use as backup heat if our power goes out and maybe to supplement oil furnace. It would be in a finished basement so not under constant surveillance.After getting it home, we noticed a hairline crack on near the top of the right side firebox! It does go all the way through, but we haven't fired it up to see ho big the crack gets once the stove is hot. My questions:

1) Should I drill a hole at end of the crack to stop it? If so, how big?
2) Can this crack be patched good enough (read safely) with high-temp furnace cement?
3) If so, do you patch it inside and outside?
4) Have we just spent $100 and a broken back on an outdoor fireplace?

Any help would be appreciated!

 

[firefighterjake]

I just bought one of these, though not the beautiful enameled kind. It is an awesome looking stove. We wanted something to use as backup heat if our power goes out and maybe to supplement oil furnace. It would be in a finished basement so not under constant surveillance.After getting it home, we noticed a hairline crack on near the top of the right side firebox! It does go all the way through, but we haven't fired it up to see ho big the crack gets once the stove is hot. My questions:

1) Should I drill a hole at end of the crack to stop it? If so, how big?
2) Can this crack be patched good enough (read safely) with high-temp furnace cement?
3) If so, do you patch it inside and outside?
4) Have we just spent $100 and a broken back on an outdoor fireplace?

Any help would be appreciated!

Don't have any definitive answers . . . but I hate to see a new guy come here, make a post and not get a response so I'm bumping this to the top . . . if you still don't get an answer try asking this question in a separate thread.

 

[kborndale]

Morso gave me the info they have on the 1125 in a .PDF file. I would attach it to this post but the site does not allow attachment of PDF files. Anybody that wants it just pm me an address and I will email is to you. Its a great stove that has been heating my house for over 25 years.

 

[kabookie]

Newbie to hearth.com forums, first post. Regarding the 1125, I have a question/issue. The stove burns great 95% of the time, but occasionally I get a "puff" of smoke and light ash out of the seams of the stove. Or, if the seams are sealed well, through the air intake holes. This sometimes happens in windy conditions, which I attribute to downdrafts causing smoke to "back up" in the chimney, but the stove has done this in non-windy conditions too. I can hear the damper rocking back and forth when this happens, indicating some odd pressure changes in the pipe. If I crack the door and let it burn a little hotter w/ more positive air intake, this usually doesn't happen.

My question: should all seams on this stove be sealed with sealant/cement? The prior owner did this and I continued the practice, mainly due to the puffs. Sometimes the stove seems "too airtight" when I seal it, and I need to crack the door for good hot burns. The sealant seems to eventually crack and start to fall out by the end of the season, but then the stove sucks more air and is hard to control (burns too hot).

My exhaust is a horizontal 30-36 inch long, 8" pipe through the wall, then a vertical 30-foot exterior chimney, all 8". Draft is always good and never seems to be an issue.

Do I need a solid, tight seal on the chimney cleanout door? Could it be sucking more air back through the horizontal pipe, resulting in a puff?

Thoughts or suggestions?