This old stove- while I have grown to admire parts of it- needs to go. It is quite damaged. I am looking for a replacement WOOD-stove of similar size, preferably steel, as I have seen what can happen to cast stoves if used improperly, and I am no professional- but I have an open mind. Throw suggestions at me, keeping in mind that I have 10" to the side of the pipe and 3" behind it... I am in a tight spot!! Stove measures 13"W x 28"L x 14"H (21"H including recirc chamber) not including legs... I am also contemplating moving the stove outward, farther away from the corner with 45° pipes...?
Need stove recommendation for tight spot
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Eek. I sure hope that what is behind those tiles is 100% non-combustible, like cement block and not wood studs. That is really close. It looks like wood is also close on the left rear of the stove. I don't have the manual for this stove but I would guess that is specifies at least 24" clearance back there.
I have a feeling you'll need to do some offsets. Once you agree to that i just installed a pretty small stove with 5" wall clearance (I extended that though on my install). Its a Pacific Energy Vista LE. Their website is good. Good spec sheets available- take a peek and see if one will fit.
Yes, offsets can be made in the stovepipe using elbows with a straight piece between them. A close clearance stove, brought further out into the room would definitely improve the situation. The hearth may need modification if the new stove is not a box style stove. How well did the Waterford work for you?
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Woody5506
Minister of Fire
Look into the PE Alderlea stoves. I know the T5 allows 3" from corners to combustible for corner install. That was a selling point for me, because I also had a tight area.
Yes, your suggestion sounds like my ideal solution, I will have to find an aesthetic way to support the weight above. Much thanks for input!
It has worked terribly, It's been broken since I moved in, but this is the third winter it has worked for me since moving in. I attempted a repair- but it is long gone, cracks are too big to seal. Even if it was taken apart and mortared together, the bottom is cracked, top warped, missing a corner piece... she has got to go. I'll save it for a project, if possible.
Apologies for my messiness- the stove has been country/ghettosealed with mud, and the stove pipe leaks which is that trecherous brown stain as seen in top picture.
![[Hearth.com] Need stove recommendation for tight spot](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/266/266685-d6f71d2e8c3a5570d16538b71152a462.jpg?hash=-5p2JAjBoi "[Hearth.com] Need stove recommendation for tight spot")
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The flu sticks out another 6ft above the roof; it is hefty...
The flu sticks out another 6ft above the roof; it is hefty...
If you don't mind me asking, how much did you pay? Theres a used PE Vista for sale in my area that I'm eyeing... Pacific E's website doesn't include prices.
Ok. The pictures help, they say a lot. You may already know this but the fact is that this is a completely illegal, dangerous and improper install. Stovepipe is NEVER allowed to be used through a ceiling. It is only for use within the room envelope. It definitely looks like a homebrewed installation with a serious lack of safety knowledge. The chimney pipe should have continued on down to the 1st floor.
Once that is fixed, a double-wall stove pipe connecting a stove with close clearances will improve safety and performance. You'll get more heat and longer burns with less wood and you will gain a nice fireview.
Once that is fixed, a double-wall stove pipe connecting a stove with close clearances will improve safety and performance. You'll get more heat and longer burns with less wood and you will gain a nice fireview.
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To be clear, double-wall stove pipe is the same as chimney pipe, correct?
Safety and performance are two things I look forward to! Uninsulated roof has me begging for more efficiency.
I am at least partially aware of the state of this cabin/house, improving it would behoove me as all of my stuff is here, including my life. I have a bigger project here than I anticipated, but its worth doing it right for the peace of mind. Thank you for your knowledge @begreen and I appreciate the patience you have for not smashing your keyboard/phone to pieces after seeing those photos haha
No not at all. Stove pipe connects from the stove to the chimney which starts where you meet a ceiling or wall.
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It cannot easily be used as a freestanding unit doing so would make it an unlisted stove with 36" clearance.
I can't say i fully understand what you mean, this is probably due to my lack of experince in this area. As long as clearances to combustibles are adhered to and an inspector okays the work, would that be enough?
il admit I have not read this whole thread so I'm probably missing somthing. Regardless its a good thing there are active knowledgeable people on here and always err on the side of caution.
An insert is designed to go inside a fireplace. So there is no testing for clearance to combustibles on the box or the hearth. That means if it is not in a fireplace it voids the ul listing making the clearances revert to those of an unlisted stove. Which are 36" all the way around. Considering the op wants a stove for a tight spot that would not be a good solution. Not to mention it would be an illegal install because it was not installed to manufacturers instructions.
Double-wall stove pipe is not the same as chimney pipe as bholler noted. He is a professional sweep and provides great guidance too. Ask all the questions you need to. We want you to be safe and have a good wood burning experience.I am at least partially aware of the state of this cabin/house, improving it would behoove me as all of my stuff is here, including my life. I have a bigger project here than I anticipated, but its worth doing it right for the peace of mind. Thank you for your knowledge @begreen and I appreciate the patience you have for not smashing your keyboard/phone to pieces after seeing those photos haha
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