New Atmos DC50 with storage installation

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benmaupin

New Member
Hearth Supporter
May 10, 2009
7
Central Maine
Gentlemen,
Good Morning Next month I retire from the US Army and will be piping a new Atmos boiler with a 1000 gallon propane tank as storage. The house (3500sqft 1900 Victorian) is being renovated with radiant floor heat as we speak. I will have 4 zones (Plus 2 piped yet not used for a side arm and snow melt in the future).
I like nofossil's simple design. I would like to use zone valves as opposed to circulators.
The house is currently being heated with a Argos AT2446 (only one floor finished in use). I plan on using the Argos as the back up when we are away from the house for a few days or when the wood boiler is down for service issues. Thus I believe I can get away with leaving it plumbed and wired per nofossil's design.
My problem is with selecting valves and controllers and then the thermostats, wiring of each etc. There are so many choices out there.
I would like to be able to draw heat from the boiler as the storage heats up. Then heat from the tank when the fire in the boiler is out. As stated the Argos will just be switched off unless needed for an away period.
1.Help with selection of the controls would be great.
2. What do you guys think about the addition of a hydraulic separator and how would it be plumbed in?
I have been reading your site for the last few years and have most questions answered. Any advice/comments would be great. I'll post pic's of the system and contribute my experience with the Atmos in the future. The boiler was purchased from CT Greenheat.

Ben
 
Hi Benmaupin; I am about to pick up my Atmos DC32GS & will certainly follow your install. Are you going to use a Laddomat or ESBE? Somehow the boiler water needs to be kept hot or Atmos says it will shorten the life of it. Rich has great customer service so this is probably handled. I look forward to your advice & pics. Randy
 
Randy,
I am using the mixing valve.
I have decided on Tekmar controls specifically the A 157-6. This allows control of the pumps and priority with setback and aquastats of the storage and boiler loops.
I was kind of hoping to get advice from the folks here but I guess my post with the Atmos didn't garner much interest.
The only decision left is the Zone controller for the zone valves.
I'll post as the project gets along.
 
I was kind of hoping to get advice from the folks here but I guess my post with the Atmos didn’t garner much interest.

Participation in this forum is a bit seasonal. And this is the off season. But your post has 90 views already.

2. What do you guys think about the addition of a hydraulic separator and how would it be plumbed in?

If you are interested in these things (for whatever reason) here is a good intro article by one of the best writers and most respected authorities on heating systems and radiant heat in the business.

http://www.pmengineer.com/Articles/Cover_Story/BNP_GUID_9-5-2006_A_10000000000000166945

And if you haven't seen it here already, the same author's book "Modern Hydronic Heating" by John Siegenthaler is widely considered the best single book on the subject. Not light reading but if you are planning to do your own heating system work and using radiant you won't find a better way to understand and plan out what is involved. You can get it right from the author here:

http://store.hydronicpros.com/category.php?QCID=n6uf1fhrcfjbj0nfhgmvqbldt3&qcc=1002&qpg=1

Sometimes it's cheaper from Amazon.

Whether a hydraulic separator will do anything for you depends on the details of your system. With a project as big as this are you using a radiant designer? They are very good at figuring out all the electrical/hydronic control stuff. It can get pretty involved. If you are doing it all yourself you definitely need Siegenthaler's book.
 
Dave,
Thanks for the response. I forgot most people are not concerned with their heat this time of year...lol
The separator is really not important I just liked the sediment feature, I don't really need it as designed. I will get the book as I have been holding off. I think after two years of reading all the folks here and independant research I have the system down. I designed the first floor system three years ago and it is running fine with the Electric Argo 24KW boiler. After the Atmos is up and running it will get to retire as back-up.Never hurts to think about options. The only issue I was still wrestling with was the control of the monster. I believe I have that also figured out but will read the book after it arrives and digest more before finalizing zoning with circulators or valves. It seems the newer controls on the market want to zone and also control temp with circulators (rather than 3/4 way mixing valves). Not sure why you would want to add more electronics to a system when the old mechanical will do the trick. Thanks for the advice.
Ben
 
There are a lot of things the old mechanical controls won't do that really make radiant work better and more efficiently, stuff that Siegenthaler covers well.

I hired out the design of my system a couple years ago. He came up with a system that uses 6 zone valves, one electronically controlled temperature mixing valve and one 80 watt circulator for my entire 3200 sq.ft. home. That mixes my boiler water to a temperature that meets the heat loads of the house and knows if the sun is shining through the large southern facing window walls or if it's cloudy out and ramps up the heat before the house begins cooling or lowers the temp before it overheats. Tough to do with a thermostatic valve.. The circulator will run around the clock during the middle of the heating season and just raise and lower the temp of the circulating water. Much kinder on the tubes and the flooring. This house is new, very well insulated and close to airtight, though. I'm sure larger heating loads could easily take power to run.

And I have to add that this system will not be finished and running until this coming winter. I don't want to come off as an expert. Just an enthusiast hoping to steer others like myself toward helpful information.
 
You guys are way past me. I'm just going to run a real simple system at first. Ben, would there be any chance of getting a copy of your install manual? I believe it is also good for the DC32GS & hopefully in English. I got my book, my German is a little rusty though,lol. My boiler was made for the German market. Germany uses both the GS & GSE. Thanks for the book links Dave, these should help. Randy
 
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