New Furnace Day: Drolet Heat Commander

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Its all about work smart, not hard...get a bunch of blocks...I like 2x4 cutoffs, get some nice long "levers" be it pipe, 2x4's, or I like to use a spud bar. Get (2) 2-3' long pieces of 1" pipe (metal or sch 80 PVC) to use as rollers.
You can work the HC off the side of pallet until it can be rocked up onto one side (I can do this by myself) while someone else pulls the pallet out, then puts a piece of pipe under it to act as a roller...as you roll it, you can "leapfrog" the 2 pipes under the furnace as you roll it along. If you had to move it further I'd say maybe the blower should come off, but I wouldn't bother for 4'.
Or since you only need to move it 4', it might be easier to get a few pieces of sheet metal (like duct metal) to put under the "feet"...it will slide pretty easily on concrete this way (scoot it one end at a time, 1, then the other, in a twisting motion) this is how I moved my Kuuma from its temporary install spot, to its permanent spot...by myself.
I doubt the HC is much heavier than the Tundra was, and I found the Tundra fairly easy to move around...as long as there wasn't lifting (stairs!) involved...same floor/level moves were really pretty easy...heck I did one of my installs, by myself, while the kids were napping in rooms right above me...and nobody woke up!

This is great. How are you using the 2x4 cutoffs (what for)?
I cheated on mine, borrowed an engine hoist. I put mine up on concrete blocks while I had it in the air, 8" less I have to bend over to load it.
I borrowed an engine hoist as well only to find out the legs aren't wide enough :).
 
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I had to extend the hoist out all the way. This made it pretty tippy. I had to add some counterweight and be careful about it tipping forward
 
So have any upgraded from the previous tundra or heatmax to the new heat commander and if so was it worth the extra? I only ask this because right now a local store has the heatmax2 on for 2000$ and I have the wife pretty much sold on it but I deep down want the newer version. I don’t know if I can sell her on the extra 2500$ Price point.
 
So have any upgraded from the previous tundra or heatmax to the new heat commander and if so was it worth the extra? I only ask this because right now a local store has the heatmax2 on for 2000$ and I have the wife pretty much sold on it but I deep down want the newer version. I don’t know if I can sell her on the extra 2500$ Price point.
Extra $2500?! Where are you shopping? The last I looked they were ~$2650 (shipped) on the MFP site
Looks like $2799 now, but $150 rebate to the end of the month, plus 26% tax rebate this year and next.
And yes, if you go back through this thread, there are several here that came from a T1/HM1 or T2/HM2 previously...personally, for the extra $5-600, I'd go HC...I think my sister is going to replace her cracked T1 with a HC (try to get warranty credit for the T1 toward buying the HC)
 
Extra $2500?! Where are you shopping? The last I looked they were ~$2650 (shipped) on the MFP site
Looks like $2799 now, but $150 rebate to the end of the month, plus 26% tax rebate this year and next.
And yes, if you go back through this thread, there are several here that came from a T1/HM1 or T2/HM2 previously...personally, for the extra $5-600, I'd go HC...I think my sister is going to replace her cracked T1 with a HC (try to get warranty credit for the T1 toward buying the HC)
Yes I saw that and that’s an excellent deal I’d have 0 issues with. Unfortunately I’m Canadian and for some reason on the Canadian version of the website it retails for 4300$ even though 2799 converts to 3500$ Canadian haha so doesn’t make much sense to me
 
Yes I saw that and that’s an excellent deal I’d have 0 issues with. Unfortunately I’m Canadian and for some reason on the Canadian version of the website it retails for 4300$ even though 2799 converts to 3500$ Canadian haha so doesn’t make much sense to me
Yeah, that is weird...especially since they are made in Canada.
 
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I just got my heat commander in! I'm excited to get it running. Currently I have it in the basement about 4 feet from where I need it. I have one problem right now...

Is there any way to get this off the pallet without a hoist? Will I be okay sliding it across the concrete floor once I have it off the pallet?

If I have to use a hoist, what is the best way to attach it to the joist so that something doesn't break?

I appreciate any direction on this!
Seriously, think more, post less! Not to say it's bad to solicit ideas, but your situation is unique, and only you know all the little variables.

i brought my Kuuma in in a trailer, cut the shipping pallet into a sled for the snowpack between the unload spot and the house, used a decreasing height stack of pallets and a winch to get it to from the trailer down to the snow, then moved it onto some moving dollies when I got it into the garage. I called a buddy to help me get it up a 3" step, then down another 2" step and maneuvered around to the furnace room. After days of my thinking it through, and a half hour of my buddy second guessing my plan, we got behind it and pushed. It went in like it was greased. My buddy said, "I think we were maybe overthinking this." Well, he was, and I wasn't!

And Kuumas are F in heavy!
 
Yes I saw that and that’s an excellent deal I’d have 0 issues with. Unfortunately I’m Canadian and for some reason on the Canadian version of the website it retails for 4300$ even though 2799 converts to 3500$ Canadian haha so doesn’t make much sense to me
Road trip...
Take advantage of the free shipping to the closest spot in the USA then do the rest yourself or find a shipper from the free point to you.You would probably save a bunch of the difference.
 
Seriously, think more, post less! Not to say it's bad to solicit ideas, but your situation is unique, and only you know all the little variables.

i brought my Kuuma in in a trailer, cut the shipping pallet into a sled for the snowpack between the unload spot and the house, used a decreasing height stack of pallets and a winch to get it to from the trailer down to the snow, then moved it onto some moving dollies when I got it into the garage. I called a buddy to help me get it up a 3" step, then down another 2" step and maneuvered around to the furnace room. After days of my thinking it through, and a half hour of my buddy second guessing my plan, we got behind it and pushed. It went in like it was greased. My buddy said, "I think we were maybe overthinking this." Well, he was, and I wasn't!

And Kuumas are F in heavy!
My above post was rude, and I am sorry.

I'd had a hard day, trying to recoup from an error I made when I talked through a problem, instead of actually doing the checking on the problem. I was mad at myself for doing it, and spent the day beating myself up, and resolving to rely not on assurances, but verification. Measure twice and cut once, and all that.

My anger with myself leaked out into the keyboard, and again, I'm sorry. It was really directed more at myself than you, but it didn't type out that way.
 
Road trip...
Take advantage of the free shipping to the closest spot in the USA then do the rest yourself or find a shipper from the free point to you.You would probably save a bunch of the difference.
Oh we usually do I live on a border town which is 35 minutes from USA border but with all the covid stuff there’s no travel in my area.. geez sbi is only 6 hours away I’d even drive there for the right deal but they won’t let you travel within Canadian borders even! Between a rock and a hard place haha so I might have to just settle for the heatmax2 .
 
Can you have it shipped from an American vendor? Could the Canadian price be higher because they are including the shipping with the total price? I'm sure freight is not cheap these days.
 
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Can you have it shipped from an American vendor? Could the Canadian price be higher because they are including the shipping with the total price? I'm sure freight is not cheap these days.
Well the only site I really have seen it on is the mfp site which has a Canadian and American when I try to do anything on the site it usually just detects my location and switches to the Canadian version. I’m not to sure really why the cost is different but I’m always keeping an eye out!
 
mfp site which has a Canadian and American when I try to do anything on the site it usually just detects my location and switches to the Canadian version.
It does that to me too...can be a real bugger to get it to the American site sometimes!
 
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Seriously, think more, post less! Not to say it's bad to solicit ideas, but your situation is unique, and only you know all the little variables.

i brought my Kuuma in in a trailer, cut the shipping pallet into a sled for the snowpack between the unload spot and the house, used a decreasing height stack of pallets and a winch to get it to from the trailer down to the snow, then moved it onto some moving dollies when I got it into the garage. I called a buddy to help me get it up a 3" step, then down another 2" step and maneuvered around to the furnace room. After days of my thinking it through, and a half hour of my buddy second guessing my plan, we got behind it and pushed. It went in like it was greased. My buddy said, "I think we were maybe overthinking this." Well, he was, and I wasn't!

And Kuumas are F in heavy!
Oh believe me, I thought about it a lot :D! I ended up using brenndatomu's advice. Originally I was going to try to slide it off I(before I posted here), but I couldn't get it to budge a single bit on the pallet. Well, it turns out that there were two 1/4in boards stapled under the furnace to keep it from sliding to the side. They were not very visible and I only noticed them after removing the blower. Once I removed those boards I was able to slide it off with no problem. I then used broomsticks to roll it into place. It definitely wasn't as difficult as I originally thought. I also didn't realize how sturdy this thing is.

I got it hooked up to my 6.5"x6" terracotta exterior chimney and fired it up a couple times so far. It seems to get good enough draft once it heats up a bit with 60F+ temperature outside.
 
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My above post was rude, and I am sorry.

I'd had a hard day, trying to recoup from an error I made when I talked through a problem, instead of actually doing the checking on the problem. I was mad at myself for doing it, and spent the day beating myself up, and resolving to rely not on assurances, but verification. Measure twice and cut once, and all that.

My anger with myself leaked out into the keyboard, and again, I'm sorry. It was really directed more at myself than you, but it didn't type out that way.

I really appreciate you taking the time to post this. I'm not easily offended, but I was a little confused! Hopefully you were able to get everything resolved with the error. No hard feelings on my end.
 
So I took everyone’s advice and convinced the wife the heat commander was the way to go. Today was delivery day!

D6C13303-37D1-43F2-B617-6845CE2DABC8.jpeg
 
Lit the first fire on mine Saturday to burn some of the stink off before I get my ducts hooked up. Just a couple small loads of ash, seemed to work pretty well. Haven't measured my draft yet, I will when I get into burning more to see if I need the baro dampener. Had my HVAC buddy over tonight to figure out my duct situation.
 
Lit the first fire on mine Saturday to burn some of the stink off before I get my ducts hooked up. Just a couple small loads of ash, seemed to work pretty well. Haven't measured my draft yet, I will when I get into burning more to see if I need the baro dampener. Had my HVAC buddy over tonight to figure out my duct situation.
Do you have existing duct work or are you running all new stuff? I have an existing trunk line that’s a little under sized but I think I’m gunna tie into it and then run some extra to my partially finished basement.
 
Do you have existing duct work or are you running all new stuff? I have an existing trunk line that’s a little under sized but I think I’m gunna tie into it and then run some extra to my partially finished basement.
This is EXACTLY what I am planning to do. I'm going to have my HVAC guy modify the HC plenum with a rectangular duct carrying 500- 600cfm to my existing supply. I'm then going to run two 6" supplies with branches to my partially finished basement (1000sqft)

My hope is that the existing ductwork will carry enough to heat the 2000sqft upstairs. Worst case I can disconnect the connection to the central plenum and run branches off it to heat upstairs.
 
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Anyone having carbon monoxide issues with the HC?

I'm having CO buildup in the basement when the burn is down to the coals. It is quite windy in my area and I wouldn't be surprised if the chimney is back drafting at times when the firebox heat is this low. I'm installing the direct air combustion because I have read that it can help (Especially since our other air handler (we have two) kicks on and pulls a ton of air from the basement). I did look at the Ecobee stats and the first time our CO reading went high was right after the air handler on the other unit kicked on. Am I on the right track?

Do the dampers on the HC never fully close to put out the coals? It would be nice to be able to tap into that control with an arduino to put in some "smart logic" in cases where I don't need the coals for relighting...that's a whole other topic.
 
I'm having CO buildup in the basement when the burn is down to the coals. It is quite windy in my area and I wouldn't be surprised if the chimney is back drafting at times when the firebox heat is this low. I'm installing the direct air combustion because I have read that it can help (Especially since our other air handler (we have two) kicks on and pulls a ton of air from the basement). I did look at the Ecobee stats and the first time our CO reading went high was right after the air handler on the other unit kicked on. Am I on the right track?
What are your chimney specs?
Air being pulled from the basement might be a non starter too.
I don't think this issue can be blamed on the HC...
 
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Anyone having carbon monoxide issues with the HC?

I'm having CO buildup in the basement when the burn is down to the coals. It is quite windy in my area and I wouldn't be surprised if the chimney is back drafting at times when the firebox heat is this low. I'm installing the direct air combustion because I have read that it can help (Especially since our other air handler (we have two) kicks on and pulls a ton of air from the basement). I did look at the Ecobee stats and the first time our CO reading went high was right after the air handler on the other unit kicked on. Am I on the right track?

Do the dampers on the HC never fully close to put out the coals? It would be nice to be able to tap into that control with an arduino to put in some "smart logic" in cases where I don't need the coals for relighting...that's a whole other topic.

No CO issues here. What does your draft look like?

Eric
 
Okay, I got the fresh air supply hooked up and the difference is dramatic. Before I had to leave the door open or the fire would never start and smoke would billow out of the air intake. After adding the supply I can close the HC door and the fire continues to grow. The fresh air intake has a lot of airflow so it is like putting a blower up to the air intake. Some smoke started to creep through my stove pipe so I sealed that up as well. I'm pretty sure this should resolve it.

My draft fluctuates between -0.03 and -0.07 when the fire is going after a while. Before I start it I have barely any draft. Granted the inside and outside temperature difference is only around 15-20F right now (It doesn't get colder until morning). AFAIK that will impact draft during ignition.