New gaskets for an old Defiant

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Lyman51

Member
Sep 6, 2008
9
Southern Vermont
Hi; My first post on this site - hope I'm in the right room...
I have an old VC Defiant (I think it's a typeII?). Bought it new in '81 - it's a long-time member of the family, at this point! Anyway, it's time to replace a few door gaskets,etc. and at this time I also need to reseal the top plate - the whole top, not just the oval insert. I've gone around the lip from underneath in the past and it never lasts, so I think I should remove the top, clean it all up, then reseal and replace it... However, I'm stuck at the beginning - the four little finials, which I assume are nuts on threaded rods, just spin with my wrench. So, what's the procedure? Hope you can help - it's a rainy day!
 
Find an exploded parts diagram online and print it out for reference. It will be invaluable.
It's possible you'll need to remove the legs to get at nuts under the stove that secure the threaded rods...unless those top finials are the actual nuts. When I broke my stove down, I made an X assembly from old 2x6s on edge. This supported the stove while I removed and had the legs off.
Be prepared to break the entire stove down to parts...you'll probably find when you remove the top casting that the side plates will dislodge. Use an old chisel or screwdriver to remove all of the old furnace cement from the seams/channels between castings.
Get a caulking tube or two of black furnace cement handy for when you reassemble.
 
Thanks for the response, Elmoleaf. The current installation I have requires that I pull the stove out onto a dolly to get at the chimney for a thorough cleaning, so it won't be too much trouble to remove the legs and remove nuts from the bottom. I expect all the joints will be loose, as this stove has been moved around quite a bit (several houses, a barn, etc.). After 26+ years, it's due for an overhaul - and it's earned it.
Any other comments would be appreciated!
 
You can download a complete rebuild manual at www.vermontcastings.com. As a recent post (sorry I can't recall the exact reference) noted, rebuilding is a pretty major undertaking, especially the removal of the old stove cement. VC used to sell rebuild kits with all the necessary parts, but I'm not sure they still do and I imagine it's pretty pricey by now. If anyone near you offers professional rebuilding, it would probably be worth checking into - heating season in New England is just around the corner and having the stove still in pieces on the first cold day is not a great way to start.
 
Thanks Fraxinu;
I did a search on the VC website for "rebuild" and Voila, there was the rebuild manual. It's all within my range of tools and skills. Thanks for the pointer!
 
Lyman51 said:
Thanks Fraxinu;
I did a search on the VC website for "rebuild" and Voila, there was the rebuild manual. It's all within my range of tools and skills. Thanks for the pointer!

The "rebuild manual" does leave some things out of the process. Bolts, rods, nuts will ( not can ) break off where you didn't expect them to. Be prepared to re-thread, and extract using plenty of debonding spray; PM some of us for the right words to use.
The cast plates warp over years of burning; they usually need some serious grinding to fit back together for joint cementing. Use high temp silicone rather than furnace cement for the joints. Morso stoves use fibergalss gasketing between the plates in fitted grooves. Mark the joints like timber frames: so they match after grinding.
The Defiant was/is a great product for its time. Don't be in a hurry when you need the stove for heat.
Oh, don't do the rebuild in the living room.
 
Thanks for the tips, downeast (I think my wife had already mentioned something about the living room...). For the sealant, I would have used Rutland #78 in a caulking tube - 2000 degrees - as I like working with it. The silicone I see is only rated to 600 degrees, so I must be missing something - can you recommend a certain product (what are the forum rules??) that you have in mind? Thanks for the help.
 
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