New guy DIY heat storage and MB55 Solo plumbing

sardo_67 Posted By sardo_67, Nov 13, 2017 at 2:16 PM

  1. warno

    warno
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    Yes, surface mount probes for temp readings. Buy the cheapo ones from Ebay and roll with it. I think I have about 100 bucks in all of this.
     

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  2. sardo_67

    sardo_67
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    Zoro box showed up today and some supply house parts too. Finalized my cold return set up. Left tank will be the same but I’ll have a union fitting in there somewhere.

    1-1/2” tank to tank then 1-1/4” going up.

    3/4” boiler drain on the 90 so if I need to drain these I won’t have an issue. Another fitting I have for up higher is a 3/4 npt bung where I’ll attach the air compressor QD, then just add pressure to the tank with a hose connected to the boiler drain........ empty tank.
     

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  3. maple1

    maple1
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    where I’ll attach the air compressor QD, then just add pressure to the tank

    What do you mean there? Air compressor?
     
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  4. sardo_67

    sardo_67
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    Check out my post #43, you can see the blue air line. I am talking about if I ever have to drain the tank I can start pumping air into it to force out the water.
     
  5. Bad LP

    Bad LP
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    Gravity not good enough?
     
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  6. maple1

    maple1
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    I have never heard of anyone doing that before on a boiler or tank or it even being a consideration.

    Don't think that needs a separate or special fitting or anything if you did want to do it - you could just thread an air fitting into a pipe thread somewhere. But hooking an air compressor up to a heating system could make something go *sputz* that you don't want to.
     
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  7. sardo_67

    sardo_67
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    the tanks are in the basement and i would prefer to dump the water directly outside rather than into buckets to bring up and outside. plus i wouldn't be able to drain the last foot or so out of them as the drain is about 3" off the ground so no way to get a bucket under it.

    yes that's what the ball valves are for, i am not planning on doing this once a week, just planning ahead for if i ever need to empty a tank. work smarter not harder
     
  8. maple1

    maple1
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    Hook a small pump to the outlet?
     
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  9. salecker

    salecker
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    I didn't have to add any bungs to my tanks for temp wells.I used the same wells as used for aquastates that thread in.I used the same gauges as Warno used from eBay.
     
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  10. sardo_67

    sardo_67
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    my tanks don't have any bungs in useful locations since i cut and welded them back together. i just figured i needed more bungs for sensors but i guess i don't, not complaining since less work and less welding for me
     
  11. warno

    warno
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    I've used air pressure to force water from my tanks before. But if you do that be sure everything but the tanks are valves off. My tank has a 30 psi pop off in it so I could only use a small amount of air. If you're driving water up and out of your basement I'd probably just fashion a bulkhead fitting into a 5 gallon bucket and put a pump in it. Then pump it out.

    But on your temp sensors just go with surface mount. No need to poke more holes in your tanks. For $10ish a piece sensors from China you can't go wrong.
     
  12. sardo_67

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    Finally had time off work and other things to get some major progress.

    Tom suggested putting a nice big clean 4x8 sheet of plywood on the wall so I can layout all the plumbing neatly and organized. Did that 2 weeks ago, talked with Chris AF HS Tarm, mapped out some prints and ordered parts online.

    I’m not 100% on how to tie the tanks in yet, just using some random pipes I have laying around to mock up ideas. Will finalize it tomorrow with my plumber and buy more at the local HD.

    I may do a 180* on the boiler for better fit and piping install. Anyone think running the exhaust pipe over the boiler a little would be a bad thing? I am going to use double wall SS pipe that gives me 6” min space from combustibles, however I should be well over 13” anyway.
     

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  13. sardo_67

    sardo_67
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    All mapped out, just need to order more fittings then start plumbing.
     

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  14. sardo_67

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    Parts came in so I did a quick mock up on the floor before work while I waited for the paint to dry.

    Plumber friend said I had to paint it platinum grey since that’s what the pros do. ‍


    i added labels and color to the pic so does this make sense?
    i will be adding valves as needed as well as the heat exchange for the garage zone and radiant floor heating manifolds
     

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  15. coolidge

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    I may do a 180* on the boiler for better fit and piping install. Anyone think running the exhaust pipe over the boiler a little would be a bad thing?

    Keep in mind your heat exchanger will need to be cleaned, leave yourself enough room with stack pipe.
     
  16. sardo_67

    sardo_67
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    what do you mean?

    that isn't the actual 1-1 model of what i am doing, just mock up for layout only, once i get the other stuff on the wall i'lll see where it mounts up and the best place to put it.

    i had the boiler flipped and it doesn't leave me much room, i've tried it in 3 positions and this is the best one for my limited space
     
  17. sardo_67

    sardo_67
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    i think i have settled on my final layout

    as for the yellow dot, do i need to put a valve of some kind there to restrict flow so with the circ is on and zones are open the hot water flows thru the zones instead of in a loop in the manifold?
     

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  18. TCaldwell

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    Tom, I think you are good without it, if circs on and all zones are open, you’ll have the same flow on the returns, basically nullifying any differential pressure. However a ball valve is always handy for purging
     
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