quotejso
Feeling the Heat
How does the princess compare to the englander? I'm installing a cat stove now and I have the englander on the other side of the house.
New hearth for the Princess
- Thread starter Highbeam
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
- Status
An update, I got the hearthstones all cut and placed over the weekend.
First, you can cut these things pretty easily with a circular saw and grinder style blade. It's messy but very easy to control and cut from the bottom so the saw doesn't leave marks on the face of the stones. Chipping is not a problem. I touched up the edges with a diamond cup bit on my 4.5" grinder.
I've only ever set 12" tile before and with tile you have a consistent thickness and shape to allow nice straight lines and consistent elevation so long as you use your notch trowel to set an even bed of mortar. Not so with hearthstones. They are very "natural" and not identical, not square, not flat, an not even the same thickness so the hearth was a bit of a bugger to set. I am now at ease with the imperfections of natural stone and hope to appreciate the variation.
These are 20x20 stones and it works out that the very center stone will hold almost all of the pedestal so I made sure that that stone was a little taller than the others (1/16") and very level. Also made sure that the back wall and all the front edges were aligned and straight. This means that the field grout joints are irregular.
Oh and with the huge 20x20 stones it is nearly impossible to lower a stone into the mortar with a hammer, weight, wiggling, etc. The stones are just too big to spooge out the mortar.
Next will be grout. I'm using a grout bag and the biggest challenges will be getting the grout all the way down to the bottom of the 2" deep grout joints, and also pointing the joints without making a mess of the face of the stones.
First, you can cut these things pretty easily with a circular saw and grinder style blade. It's messy but very easy to control and cut from the bottom so the saw doesn't leave marks on the face of the stones. Chipping is not a problem. I touched up the edges with a diamond cup bit on my 4.5" grinder.
I've only ever set 12" tile before and with tile you have a consistent thickness and shape to allow nice straight lines and consistent elevation so long as you use your notch trowel to set an even bed of mortar. Not so with hearthstones. They are very "natural" and not identical, not square, not flat, an not even the same thickness so the hearth was a bit of a bugger to set. I am now at ease with the imperfections of natural stone and hope to appreciate the variation.
These are 20x20 stones and it works out that the very center stone will hold almost all of the pedestal so I made sure that that stone was a little taller than the others (1/16") and very level. Also made sure that the back wall and all the front edges were aligned and straight. This means that the field grout joints are irregular.
Oh and with the huge 20x20 stones it is nearly impossible to lower a stone into the mortar with a hammer, weight, wiggling, etc. The stones are just too big to spooge out the mortar.
Next will be grout. I'm using a grout bag and the biggest challenges will be getting the grout all the way down to the bottom of the 2" deep grout joints, and also pointing the joints without making a mess of the face of the stones.
Attachments
I've got them both and they are totally different machines for totally different jobs. I aim for 700-750 every few days with the NC and 400 24/7 with the BK.
quotejso
Feeling the Heat
Can the stove be that close to the TV? I have a piano that will be 38 inches from the side of my stove do you think this will be a problem?
The princess ultra has side shields so the radiant heat is relatively low. It hasn't been a problem yet. I probably get a good 2 feet there. Now a piano is different. It won't burst into flames but the wood may be affected by the heat over time.
quotejso
Feeling the Heat
Yea I might have to put some kind of shield up its a real nice piano my grandparents and I don't want to damage it.
quotejso
Feeling the Heat
Good question. Maybe somebody has tried it, you'd get a better audience to ask with a new thread.
BKVP
Minister of Fire
Try a brick joint trowel. Long & thin, and used on its side should help working the grout into the joint. I used one for my cultured stone walls for working mortar & removing excess mortar between stones on the dry stack walls.
So I got the hearth all grouted and after waiting 48 hours I sealed the grout last night. Used polyblend sanded grout and 511 impregnating (love that term)sealer as I did not want a gloss on the hearth. I used a grout bag and that is really a workout for the old hands. I mixed the grout per the instructions plus a touch more water but maybe the grout baggers like it thinner. I didn't want to weaken the grout or mess up the color with extra water.
The 511 sealer is oil based and is a silicon sealer. Pretty stinky. It is strong enough to strip the black paint off of my OAK stub so it's the real deal. The goal is to reduce staining and make clean up of ash and debris easier. A little bit of that sealer goes a long ways.
Now I wait 72 hours before resetting the blazeking. We normally start full time burning in mid September so this is working out.
Photos are before sealer. Sealer slightly darkened the hearth but zero shine. I used two coats of sealer, 2 hours apart.
The 511 sealer is oil based and is a silicon sealer. Pretty stinky. It is strong enough to strip the black paint off of my OAK stub so it's the real deal. The goal is to reduce staining and make clean up of ash and debris easier. A little bit of that sealer goes a long ways.
Now I wait 72 hours before resetting the blazeking. We normally start full time burning in mid September so this is working out.
Photos are before sealer. Sealer slightly darkened the hearth but zero shine. I used two coats of sealer, 2 hours apart.
Attachments
I too have started my raised hearth pad project. Taking pic's along the way. I'll post them when I'm done. Installing a BK princess ultra in a mobile home.
I'm posting as I go. It might be long and too many pictures but I'd rather somebody catch an error or offer advice as I go so that I can use it. Nobody ever complains about too many pictures, right?
True dat. I'll post what I have and wait for the deluge of good advice. I would expect no less from this group of seasoned vets.
Smoked
Feeling the Heat
That looks nice! I have to do a little hearth extension and wish I would have seen yours before I bought the materials for mine. Mine are 4x4 slate and think it is going to be a lot more work.
Okay, update, we're getting closer. The hearth is all sealed up and time to replace the stove. I slid the stove right off of the old 5" tall hearth onto the cart/dolly thing but now that the hearth is taller by 5" I need to elevate the stove before sliding it back onto the new hearth. Of course, this is done alone without any help. 4 2x6 chunks of lumber on each side ought to do. Would have been much easier with help since it takes three hands to lift the stove and slide the next shim under. Ugh, I had to sort of kick each additional 2x6 layer under without upsetting the stack and dumping the stove.
Once up to height I slid the long strips of 3x4" plywood under to use as ramps to position the stove without dragging it on the hearthstones. I was also a bit worried about overloading the overhanging hearthstones.
So now it sits on the hearth ready for OAK hookup and chimney hookup. My old slip section of double wall pipe, fully collapsed, was still 2" too long so I had to order a new shorter slip section. Also, I am upgrading the adapter between the ceiling support box and the double wall pipe to the new bolt on style instead of the hokey SS snap ring.
Another funny thing that happened is that the pedestal under a BK is only a three sided deal. The rear of the pedestal does not support the stove but about 1/8" above the pedestal base is a stout chunk of channel iron across the rear. Since my pedestal straddled the tallish center hearthstone, the rear of the stove sat down in the rear and created a low back. Not cool. It's hard enough keeping the smoke in the stove when the stove is level. So I cut a chunk of 3/16" flat bar and slid it under that channel iron to support the stove in back. Now the stove is level front to back and left to right.
So now I wait, and run electric heaters to stay warm. We have been getting some cold nights here in the Puget sound region.
Once up to height I slid the long strips of 3x4" plywood under to use as ramps to position the stove without dragging it on the hearthstones. I was also a bit worried about overloading the overhanging hearthstones.
So now it sits on the hearth ready for OAK hookup and chimney hookup. My old slip section of double wall pipe, fully collapsed, was still 2" too long so I had to order a new shorter slip section. Also, I am upgrading the adapter between the ceiling support box and the double wall pipe to the new bolt on style instead of the hokey SS snap ring.
Another funny thing that happened is that the pedestal under a BK is only a three sided deal. The rear of the pedestal does not support the stove but about 1/8" above the pedestal base is a stout chunk of channel iron across the rear. Since my pedestal straddled the tallish center hearthstone, the rear of the stove sat down in the rear and created a low back. Not cool. It's hard enough keeping the smoke in the stove when the stove is level. So I cut a chunk of 3/16" flat bar and slid it under that channel iron to support the stove in back. Now the stove is level front to back and left to right.
So now I wait, and run electric heaters to stay warm. We have been getting some cold nights here in the Puget sound region.
Woody harrelson
Feeling the Heat
looks really good man! nice job. I just put in that support box adapter your talking about. worked out good.
I want the seam of the double wall on the back of the pipe and the appliance adapter is already mounted on the stove to allow that. So now when I place that adapter on the ceiling how do I "clock" it properly to allow the seams to be in the back? I am imagining myself installing everything without the adapter mounted to the ceiling box and then screwing it down. I surely wouldn't screw the adapter to the ceiling and then hope the screw holes line up.
Last edited:
What's the worry, you had it by a 1/16 of an inch.After your scare I went and measured for my soon to be installed BK and was glad to see I have about 5ft from stove top to ceiling. That's with an 11in high pad. Thanks to vaulted roof in living room.
kennyp2339
Minister of Fire
- Status
Similar threads
