New Hearthstone owner new to forum now to burning wood.

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charlesj

New Member
Hearth Supporter
Jun 27, 2008
13
Islesboro Maine
We bought a Hearthstone wood stove & I have to install it next week. I have a 12" flue for my fireplace & was told to use an insulated flue liner. Where do I get it. The person I bought the stove from says I don't need it. Hearthstone says it will work a lot better with it so where can I get it . Any help would be appreciated ....Thanks
 
Welcome charles, congratulations on the nice new stove. This is a new chimney correct? Is it on the interior of the house or exterior? About how tall is the chimney?
 
With a new chimney, wood surround, you might be ok without insulating it, especially if the intent is to run the stove 24/7. This is your call, but I side with the dealer. You're in a cold climate so I say insulate is and reduce the heat loss to the masonry. Put in a block off plate too, no point in heating the outdoors.
 
In your location and that height a chimney I would insulate it. I have had good dealings with the online dealers www.hartshearth.com and www.chimneylinerdepot.com on liners.

Chimney Liner Depot sells as springhill1294 on eBay and often sells cheaper there than they do from their website.
 
I'm confused (nothing new there). Do you have a masonry chimney surrounded by wood, or is it a metal flue running up inside an exterior wooden chase? Is there any masonry involved, other than maybe some decorative fascia? Rick
 
What I have is an Isokern 36" masonry fire place. The exterior flue is 2 parts. The center section is 12" round in the center & hexagon on the out side that fits inside a 14 to 16" square cement block so there is an air space between the two of about 1" all around. Instead of using brick or stucco I surrounded it with a wood c.
 
Whoa! Nice fireplace. It sounds like you used the Isokern pumice blocks for the chimney. If so I don't see why you would need to insulate a liner. That pumice is damned good insulation itself.
 
I bought the whole set up & built it with my wife.....It was a chore to get the 100# blocks up 24' with a rope off pipe staging. It turned out real nice. It's a nice fireplace & about 1/3 the cost of a masonary built one. I had a few prices & they wanted 15 to 20 grand to build it.
 
So you have a well insulated, 28' tall, 12" DIAMETER!! chimney to which you will attach a modern EPA non-cat with a 6" diameter flue. In my limited experience with oversized chimneys I would prepare yourself for a runaway stove. Be sure to include a stovepipe damper. Once that 12" pipe gets hot and sucking it could pull the logs out of your new stove.

Isn't there some kind of rule about oversized flues?
 
I can see that happening if I was just ducting it into the existing flue but I'm not. I'm running a 6" flue liner from the wood stove thorough the dampener in the fireplace blocked off except where the 6" liner goes through & I'm doing the same at the top. What I want to know is do I have to insulate the 6" liner seeing that the 12" flue I already have is insulated. I have no Idea why the fireplace has a 12" flue. Thats what it came with & there is nothing smaller for that kind of fireplace....
 
charlesj said:
...It was a chore to get the 100# blocks up 24' with a rope off pipe staging.

I see we have another master of understatement on the forum. :-P Rick
 
Woops, I was hung up on that fantastic chimney and missed the liner part. Good idea on the liner and I wouldn't bother with liner insulation, your wood chase (consider it a dead air space = good R-value) and substantial chimney construction will provide significant insulative value. Your winters are indeed cold and an additional layer of insulation can't hurt.

You can always add it later.....
 
Same stove different install location. My wife & I have been thinking that we really don't want to loose the fireplace by putting the wood stove in it. We decided to remove two windows & run the stove pipe through the wall & up the side of the house using the close clearance pipe inside & the stainless outside. What I'd like to know is that when we run the pipe from the stove it has to have a 45 degree & a 90 to get it through the wall. Is there any specs that tell the distance from the top of the stove to the 45 & then to the 90 to go through the wall should be. We have to use a 45 because of the porch wall that is directly behind the stove, so we have to off set the pipe a little bit. Any ideas on this....Thanks for all the previous posts .
 
You can stick the bend right onto the stove collar. No minimum straight shot unless specifically identified in your manual.
 
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