New homeowner wood stove through chimney question

[cm44]

New member and first time homeowner here.
I have a wood stove with pipe that was ran through the chimney. Got up there to inspect it and clean the stove pipe and realized that the chimney opening was not covered and has likely been collecting water. Luckily, there is a drain in the back of the chimney so no water has been pooling in there.

What should I do to cover the opening around the stove pipe? If I cover it will dangerous heat build in the air pocket between the pipe and chimney?
I was looking at something like this: https://firesidechimneysupply.com/s...XuPLT9qFGvPMFD0LWJTLYOrqhQNYeMnkaAmPZEALw_wcB

Any advice or thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Photos for reference:

 

[begreen]

That is an illegal installation. Black stovepipe can not be used in a chimney. It must have a stainless steel liner and it should be insulated, especially in an unlined chimney. The top cap for the liner will cover the flue top.

 

[stoveliker]

Just for clarification, illegal means not to code. And not to code means unsafe, especially when talking about a fire in your home.

 

[Bad LP]

Just for clarification, illegal means not to code. And not to code means unsafe, especially when talking about a fire in your home.

That’s how people die.

 

[begreen]

It also means that if there is any issue related to the stove or chimney the insurance will not cover it. The bottom line is it's just plain wrong. Added moisture from rain will just accelerate corrosion of the stove pipe. It's a potentially dangerous situation for several reasons.

 

[cm44]

Ouch, not what I was hoping to hear but I want to get it all up to code. First plan was to hire a pro but I live in very rural Idaho and couldn't find any chimney professionals within two hours drive.
From what I can gather, I need to replace the 8" black pipe with stainless (double wall?) pipe and cover the opening in the chimney with the flu cover. Any tips or tricks on how to best snake the new pipe down the chimney and have it mate up with the stove properly?
If needed, I'll pull the wood stove out of the old fireplace to get the stove pipe done properly but I would love to leave the stove in place if possible.

Thanks for all the help!

 

[begreen]

What woodstove is on the other end of the stovepipe? Can you post a picture?
This looks more like 6", but it's hard to judge the scale. The chimney throat appears fairly large. Unless there are offsets it should be easy to drop an insulated liner down there. Do you know what the ID is for this chimney?

 

[NickW]

Also be aware there are insulated oval liners that will definitely fit if round won't. They use a tee that has a round fitting for attaching the stovepipe to the side, then oval fitting for attaching the liner to the end. When I did mine all it took was knocking the top clay block out, run the liner down with the tee attached, attach the stovepipe, put on the top plate & weather flanges & chimney cap.

 

[begreen]

Yes, ovalizing or preinsulated oval is an option if needed. Once we have the current chimney ID and we know what it is connecting to we can make recommendations for liners.

 

[cm44]

First off, I really appreciate all the help and advice!

Please correct me where I'm wrong but from what I can gather, I need 15' of either 6 inch insulated chimney pipe or insulated liner to get 2' clearance from the top of the chimney. Coming out of the stove, the flu diameter is 6 inches and there are two 90 degree elbows of stove pipe and then the I would install the chimney pipe running up the chimney. I'll need a custom cover to surround the chimney pipe where it exits the chimney due to the size of the opening on top of the chimney.

I'm not sure what a chimney ID entails but I attached a photo of the chimney from the outside and attempted to get a photo looking up it parallell to the current chimney (stove) pipe.

 

[begreen]

You're addressing this just in time. You can see the corrosion of the stovepipe happening. That's why it must be stainless. the inner flue collar connection looks like this is a 6" flue outlet, but the outer ring is confusing.

Do you know if the alcove enclosure for the stove is solid masonry or if it is large tiles over a framed structure? If it's wood-framed, that is another strikeout.

 

[cm44]

Luckily its solid masonry, no wood frame anywhere near the stove or chimney.

 

[stoveliker]

Do you know what stove this is? Is there a labeling plate on the back?

See if 15' would be enough if you can find a manual.

The elbow and possible elevation above sea level might make the stove need more to burn well and prevent smoke roll out.

 

[begreen]

The collar damper has me wondering if this is an old 35:1 stove. If so, there may be no secondary combustion and a stove less fussy about flue height.

 

[stoveliker]

If so, I'd also suggest looking into getting another stove with the tax credit - then you get a lot better efficiency (and less pollution outside), meaning more heat out in your home per lb of wood used. And you get the tax credit (I believe 26%, or close to that) ALSO for the flue liner, cap, etc. and installation labor cost.

Yes, it's spending money on a new stove, but it might be worth it.

 

[cm44]

I'll definitely consider a new stove once I get some more money freed up. New home ownership is definitely death by 1000 papercuts financially!
With all the advice on here and endless reading about codes, I bought insulated stainless chimney pipe, new appropriate stove pipe elbows to match, and the other miscellaneous parts to get everything working properly and up to code.
I'll post an update when its all done but right now I'm very optimistic I can get this project done with a few friends and have everything working properly. Thanks again to everyone who gave their insight!

 

[bholler]

I'll definitely consider a new stove once I get some more money freed up. New home ownership is definitely death by 1000 papercuts financially!
With all the advice on here and endless reading about codes, I bought insulated stainless chimney pipe, new appropriate stove pipe elbows to match, and the other miscellaneous parts to get everything working properly and up to code.
I'll post an update when its all done but right now I'm very optimistic I can get this project done with a few friends and have everything working properly. Thanks again to everyone who gave their insight!

Did you buy chimney pipe or a liner? There is a big difference you want an insulated liner

 

[begreen]

I'll definitely consider a new stove once I get some more money freed up. New home ownership is definitely death by 1000 papercuts financially!
With all the advice on here and endless reading about codes, I bought insulated stainless chimney pipe, new appropriate stove pipe elbows to match, and the other miscellaneous parts to get everything working properly and up to code.
I'll post an update when its all done but right now I'm very optimistic I can get this project done with a few friends and have everything working properly. Thanks again to everyone who gave their insight!

Did you get 6"? That costs a lot less and will be easier to install. The majority of new stoves are 6".