New member with a Jotul F3 tip

[boxjoint]

Hi all, been lurking since I was in the market for a stove since purchasing my house last July. Had an existing fireplace and the house is 2400sq ft. Decided on the Jotul F3 because it is in a room that is off set from the other rooms in the lower level and is in the family room. I did not want to over heat the area and fell in love with Jotuls designs.
However, The F3 for me had very short burn times dependant upon the wood (store bought kiln dried wood would only last 2-3hours at best) . I had a few occasions where it would ramp up to 700 degrees with the dampers all the way down. If you look up from in the doorway and the air vents are large enough to fit a pencil through with the damper closed there is a fix. I took the top off and the airwash deflector off with the 2 bolts from the inside. I took the sliding damper out and cut 3/8" off of the end and replaced everything making sure the gaskets were lined up and whatnot.

I thought I might have had a crack in the stove or a gasket issue but after this fix you can damper the flame way down.
ANywho thanks for the great site and I am looking foward to getting the burn box for the upstairs for zoned heat in the master bedroom.

 

[begreen]

The gap is actually intentional. It is to allow enough air passage to prevent the stove from smoldering the wood fire.

 

[boxjoint]

I agree. However, when using extremely dry (Like the kild dried packaged stuff at the hardware stores) it will run at 650-700 with dampers all the way down. AT least now if it runs hot I can control the fire. I must admit that part of my problem might be that I have a 30 foot chimney and the draft can be almost too good.

 

[Therivermonster]

Hi, boxjoint! Welcome to the forum.

It sounds like the draft up your tall chimney might be what's causing the problem, not the stove. We are running a 15 foot chimney on our F3, and with wood in the 17% range, the lowest air setting is just right, if not too much in warmer weather. I am able to get the stove up to 700, but it has to be intentional. Otherwise it cruises between 450 and 550.

I'm not an expert, but you may need to think about a damper instead of modifying the tuned air intake for the stove. Also make sure to check your door and glass gaskets, and make sure that the front start-up air control is closed shortly after starting.

This is just my two cents. The pros here might have other suggestions.

Have fun with your F3. I know we are.
(broken link removed to http://advblane.smugmug.com/Wood-Stove-Project/i-Ptj5nVj/A)

 

[boxjoint]

Thanks for the reply therivermonster! I did install a cast iron flu damper at the T behind the stove. Definitely helped. I did my air intake mod because the slide was about half way in the slot when pushed all the way to the left. There was a big piece of slag from the casting but I cut enough so I could cut air off (almost) totally. I made a fire today with the wood that has been running hot on me (from a dead red oak tree that has also seasoned for an additional 8 months after cutting. Don't know how long it was dead but it was leaning against another tree since we moved in a year ago). It ramped up to 650 so I damped the intake all the way and damped the flu 1/4 and it came back down to 500. I did the dollar bill test on the door gasket and it was snug all the way around. It pulled out a bit easier on the top of the arch but there was definitely contact with both the gasket and the opening. I will most likely replace the gasket after this season just for my own piece of mind.
Do gaskets go bad in one season? I bought the stove new last September.

 

[begreen]

I agree. However, when using extremely dry (Like the kild dried packaged stuff at the hardware stores) it will run at 650-700 with dampers all the way down. AT least now if it runs hot I can control the fire. I must admit that part of my problem might be that I have a 30 foot chimney and the draft can be almost too good.

That is a separate issue. 30ft is a very tall chimney. If draft is strong a key damper in the flue pipe can reduce it without stove modification. 650F is within normal operational temps for the stove. Ours ran between 550F and 650F regularly with a fresh load of wood.

 

[boxjoint]

My average is around 600. Never got a true "overfire" but with extremely dry wood or fast burning species like maple or birch, she would cruise up to the 700 range. My modification did not alter the stove itself mind you, I just cut a 3/8" slice off of the sliding damper from the intake. The only effect it has is on the lowest damper setting. I did not alter the intake holes.
I do have to say though, we LOVE our F3. We are actually thinking of getting another for the upstairs if not the Nordic N-100.
BTW-This site has been a wealth of information when I was in the market. Great place guys!