New Stihl 180c wont stay running

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MJFlores

Burning Hunk
Dec 22, 2013
185
NH
My new Stihl 180c doesn't want to stay running. Any ideas? Symptoms are a very smoking run...almost like there's too much oil in the fuel mix, but I was careful to only out one small bottle in 1 gallon of fresh fuel. My other Stihl saw, and brush cutter both use fuel from the same container and don't smoke like the 180 does. I checked the manual, and it looks like the only carb adjustment is for idle speed which I've played with and doesn't help. I can start it with the choke and can rev it to keep it running but as soon as I try to let it idle it dies within 5 to 10 seconds. The saw only has 2 to 3 hours of use...could a plug have gone bad? It is brown. I know I have a warranty, so I'll probably take it to the dealer but figured I'd ask here first to see if there's a simple fix I can do first. Just stinks to have to already bring it in.
 
Sounds to me like a carb issue (running way too rich). Being new...take it to a dealer and let them work it over.
 
Picked up my saw yesterday...they said it's fine, and couldn't make the issue happen. Claimed to have run 3 tanks of gas throught it "testing". That's several hours of cutting so I'm not sure I believe that. I full expect this problem to happen later today while cutting. It cant be the gas because as I said, I run my other say and brush cutter with the same fuel mix from the same tank and they run fine. The dealer did tell me that there is no other adjustment on the carb in the 180 except for idle speed. Starting to think I may have a lemon here. I hope Stihl quality is still there.
 
If it happens again, I'd ask the dealer when you can come in and demonstrate the problem personally.
 
Is air filter clean? If its smoking its running g rich and is carb or air related. A properly running g saw won't smoke at 32:1 which is what I run sometimes in all my stuff.

Old school 30wt will smoke like crazy but not modern syn oils.
 
I think there is a L screw on those carbs bit thats just the idle jet. Too rich there and it will cut out at idle but run fine WOT.

Really read your description and sounds just like the L is set too rich.
 
Brand new saw, so yes the filter is clean, plug looks good. It smokes when you run it and your shirt smells like 2 stroke exhaust...my other stuff doesn't smoke or smell like this. They tell me there's only an idle adjustment on the carb. I cant believe the dealer couldn't reproduce the problem. I made it happen again within 10 minutes or less of cutting. I get it started within 5 or 6 pulls, cut a little and then it starts smoking...at this point if I take my finder off the gas it shuts off and is very hard to get started again...seems like it's flooding itself out. I know it's the saw because again, my other saw and brush cutter use gas from the same tank and they run fine. The dealer is useless at this point and says they'll charge me to look at it again. I pointed out that I wouldn't be there if I didn't have a problem and just want my new saw to run. I did tell them they lost me as a customer...no more saws...no more chains, no more oil or bar lube. I spend quite a but there through out the year every year but no more. I was even going to buy a new snow blower there this fall but they lost that. I guess I'll call a few other Stihl dealers, or contact Stihl directly....I just want the saw to run and cut...not asking much here. Seems stupid of Stihl to use a carb with nothing but an idle adjustment. Hard to buy quality anything these days.
 
You can thank the EPA for your fuel system problem, compounded by what sounds like a less than adequate dealer. ( yes they exist all too common also) 5-6 pulls sound like a lot to get it started, course I have a 4 stroke string trimmer with a never start system on it so who am I to say anything. I have seen and replaced plastic body carbs that were warped causing various problems on 2 stroke units - that is not to say that is your particular problem though. Too many variables to give any kind of definitive answer. Choices as you indicated - different dealer or lose that saw and get a different one ( note Stihl has 3 levels of saws,home owner, contractor and pro). No one I know likes a brand new problem child. Please note you are not alone, owner of a shop next to mine got a zero turn unit, absolutely will not keep battery charged- dealer has been worthless to him also, yep still under warranty. Likely when the warranty period is over it will be magically repaired for a considerable exchange of green backs of course.
 
Take it their and run it for the tech. Tell them you want a new carb. That will fix it.

6 pulls is a lot for a new saw! I have worn out saws that have not run in 3 months that would start better than that.
 
I dont really mind the 5 or 6 pulls to make it burp, then another pull or two to get the saw to fire up...my 460 and 290 are the same way and have been since new. I've always considered it a Stihl trait to require some pulling to start. My issue is the runs for a bit and wont idle and once that 180 stalls you're in for a LOT of pulling, or remove the spark plug and wipe if off to get it to start back up. That's not right. I'm sure half a turn on a fuel adjustment screw would fix everything...but the carb doesn't have one.
 
Go to a different dealer!!!!

I live in a really small town and pretty rural area. My biggest town is like 40k people. There are at least 3 dealers within an hour of me. I would go to a different one. I bet there more dealers than that bit there just not on my routs for work and play etc.

You may have to drive longer than a city person is use to but your dealer sucks if he cant tell a saw is too rich!
 
Look in the manual for the rec. on the carb adjustment. If that doesn't fix it, then have the dealer look at it. When mine was new, I had to adjust the carb a few times as it broke in. Now I abuse the crap out of it, and adjust nothing but the chain tension.
 
There is NO adjustment on it I looked at the IPL. All there is is the idle speed which won't matter in his case. He is describing a classic "too rich " condition on the Low circuit. But with fixed jets and not adjustable screws there is no adjustment to make. I agree 1/4-1/2 turn to lean an L screw out would fix the issue. That or maybe there is trash in the carb on the internal screen or in the needle seat. But even that he should not have to mess with on a saw under warranty.
 
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I did not mean it to sound like you were. I dont know as I have no idea about u and were all on the internet. But they are on here and city people freak out if they have to drive 10 miles or 15 mins. Never mind they sit in traffic for 20 mins to go 5 miles??? Never understood that. My first job I lived on the farm and drive 54 miles one way and took an hour. Some thought I was crazy...but they drove maybe 20+ miles but it took them 45-50 mins I asked what the difference was other than a bit of fuel and 25 more mins a day????
 
Yeah, I'll try calling some of the other deals around and explain the problem. I would think someone has seen this before, or will offer to have a look at it. If not, I'll contact Stihl and see about getting some help with my brand new saw.
 
This is a shame. The dealer should make this right, esp under warranty. Aftermarket Walbro clone carbs for MS180 have H-L-Idle screws.
(broken link removed to http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-CARBURETOR-CARB-For-STIHL-MS170-MS180-017-018-Chainsaw-Chain-saw-/271539534554?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f39047ada)
 
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I havent even mentioned a modd cause its a new saw and he clearly want warranty support since he is seeking it. And if you were gonna hot rod your saw you probably wouldnt have bought a 180 unless you have CAD bad like some of us and want a limb I g saw or just a toy...then you probably would gut the muffler dual port it and put an adjustable carb on it to turn the fuel up.
 
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