New stove install

[WinterinWI]

Wonderful website, lots of great information here. I recently had concrete poured in my 36x45 pole building. I am in the process of stick building a finished area inside of it (18x37). 2x4 framing insulated with fiberglass batts. The space will be half workshop, half family hang out area (aka man cave, but can't call it that with the wife around). I recently ordered a drolet escape 1800 to heat the space. Probably oversized for that space, but can always open it up if it gets too hot. My question is about the flue install. It will go through the ceiling (joists 2x10, 16" OC 9ft height) up another 6ft to the metal roof, then out. I'm thinking I should get a cathedral support box, so it is long enough that I can put the "attic" sheathing right up against the box. Is this the best way is is there something better? The main reason for building what is essentially a sealed room within a building is that there are plenty of mice around, and sealing up the entire pole building would be a huge pain, so I want to make sure that where the chimney penetrates the ceiling is sealed up well. Mice would love to make a home in the insulation and ruin it. Thanks.

 

[kennyp2339]

Standard ceiling support box to class a pipe, then out the roof, don't forget the metal roof silicon boot.

 

[begreen]

Standard ceiling support box + attic insulation shield and cover. Some prefer the Excel flashing for metal roofs instead of the silicone boot.

 

[WinterinWI]

Thanks, I knew the insulation shield was available, but didn't know you could get a cover for over the top of it. I'll have to check that out, or suppose I could fab something to work.

I should be good on going through the metal roof, it is close enough to the peak that I should be able to use metal boot and collar on top, and add flashing from under the ridge right over the top. Would that be better/worse than the silicone boot or the excel flashing?

Thanks

 

[begreen]

The top cover can be a storm collar.

 

[begreen]

Thanks, I knew the insulation shield was available, but didn't know you could get a cover for over the top of it. I'll have to check that out, or suppose I could fab something to work.

I should be good on going through the metal roof, it is close enough to the peak that I should be able to use metal boot and collar on top, and add flashing from under the ridge right over the top. Would that be better/worse than the silicone boot or the excel flashing?

Thanks

I'd be more comfortable with a rigid flashing that will last as long as the pipe.

 

[WinterinWI]

Yes, that's very similar to what I was planning on doing, tying in under the ridge like in the last picture. Thanks for the help.

Can't wait to get the stove up and running. 11 degrees out when I got up this morning. Running a propane torpedo heater while I'm working out there = $$$.

 

[WinterinWI]

So I'm getting ready to install, and it turns out that it will work out better to have the chimney go straight through the peak. I found a nice peak flashing from excel, and also one from woodland direct. I'm just not sure if they will fit my chimney pipe. Is all 6" class A chimney the same OD? I am using 6" Duraplus, which is 10" OD.

 

[begreen]

So I'm getting ready to install, and it turns out that it will work out better to have the chimney go straight through the peak. I found a nice peak flashing from excel, and also one from woodland direct. I'm just not sure if they will fit my chimney pipe. Is all 6" class A chimney the same OD? I am using 6" Duraplus, which is 10" OD.

All chimney pipes are different, but the flashing can often be used from another system as long as the top part of the cone matches diameter. You will need to use an 8" flashing to match the triple-wall OD of the DuraPlus. The WoodlandDirect might be Ventis. Double check the opening ID of the flashing cone to be sure it is a good fit. (just checked. The Excel EFP is 10 3/8".)

 

[WinterinWI]

Thanks. I dropped a plumb bob from the peak today, and with the stove positioned to meet clearances, I am off 2" from center of the peak at the top. It also needs to be centered up top to meet chimney clearances. The top of the stove to the peak is 14ft. Given that distance, can the chimney be "cheated" 2 inches or is this a bad idea? Here is a picture of the peak.

 

[Ludlow]

2" out of plumb in that distance probably wont affect the function but it will make attaching the connector a PITA as well as some eyes might notice it being out of plumb.

 

[bholler]

I doubt 2" out will matter but it would drive me nuts every time i looked at it. Why not just move the stove 2"?

 

[WinterinWI]

There is a wall just off the right side of the picture. With the stove at minimum clearance (5" back corner of stove to the wall), it is 2 inches off up top. The 2x4 wall will be covered with durock, then ledgestone. Right now, I have the stove placed so it will have the 5" clearance to the ledgestone. Since the ledgestone and durock aren't combustible, can I instead place the stove 5" from the studs? That would get me much closer.