New to me woodgun e100
- Thread starter sgrenier35
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
- Status
![[Hearth.com] New to me woodgun e100](/talk/data/attachments/143/143661-195717b64c86d9af48b1e9faf18b7531.jpg?hash=ut-gjeOIcY)
![[Hearth.com] New to me woodgun e100](/talk/data/attachments/143/143662-eb421f3ceca17b231fee65f969e1ade6.jpg?hash=We6r1zTrCf)
- Dec 8, 2012
- 175
The center bricks definately need to be replaced. Also looks like you need a new center plug. Looks like it been run on oil for a while and needs a little tlc. What do you know about it? If it is new to you I would also take the cyclone off and give it a good cleaning. Also may want to remove fan assembly and clean back there
Agreed.
You need a new center plug:
(broken link removed)
I can't tell, but I think you are missing the center bricks:
(broken link removed)
If the ledge is in rough shape, you could try the steel set:
(broken link removed)
What did you pay for it? Any other pics?
ac
I got the boiler for $1000, it's 5-6 years old and has only ever burned kiln dried firewood. I guess I will order a new plug and new center bricks. Are the refractory bricks any better or worse than the steel ones?
If you have little to no ledge then you'll need the steel one. It's hard to tell from your pic. In the "slot" you will need a lip on both sides for the refractory to sit on. While waiting for the parts to arrive I would be cleaning as described above.
Wow, smoking deal!
If that is true, it is unlikely you need new refractory. However, from your pics it looks like the previous owner really let the nozzle wear get out of hand. Get whatever is left of the nozzles out and take another pic. The ceramic nozzles are preferred if there is still ledge.
How do the door gaskets look? How is the silicone disc on the intake?
Post some more pics. It looks like you got a great deal on a boiler that just needs some maintenance.
ac
I managed to get what was left of the nozzles out today. There seems to be plenty of shelf left so should I stick with the masonry nozzles? Also when I reattached the cyclone it sits about an inch off the floor what are you guys doing to support this ?![[Hearth.com] New to me woodgun e100](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/143/143777-dc66597740dd983069fdd220da8dd5f7.jpg?hash=YuXhDI8PIy "[Hearth.com] New to me woodgun e100")
Regarding the cyclone...next time you have it off consider installing studs much like the fan has. Much easier to put back on using some shims and just slide it on. I may put something under the cyclone just because...but it really isn't needed.
Welcome to the Wood Gun Fray!
Where do you live, what are you heating with it, where will you install it, what source do you have for wood.
We are very nosey people and want all the dirt on you! LOL
Your shelf looks good enough for refractory bricks.
I have a bunch of youtube videos that might be informative. Or at least comical.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC3c4IrozOAg2zg6hsZdHLNg/videos
I am going to shoot another video showing the size of the splits that the wood gun likes.
So ignore all the small splits I have in my wood piles.
I have been struggling to get through them all.
The Wood Gun likes it big. 6x6 minimum.
Small splits cause huffing and burn up like kindling.
Where do you live, what are you heating with it, where will you install it, what source do you have for wood.
We are very nosey people and want all the dirt on you! LOL
Your shelf looks good enough for refractory bricks.
I have a bunch of youtube videos that might be informative. Or at least comical.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC3c4IrozOAg2zg6hsZdHLNg/videos
I am going to shoot another video showing the size of the splits that the wood gun likes.
So ignore all the small splits I have in my wood piles.
I have been struggling to get through them all.
The Wood Gun likes it big. 6x6 minimum.
Small splits cause huffing and burn up like kindling.
![[Hearth.com] New to me woodgun e100](http://s878.photobucket.com/user/avc8130/media/Boiler/20140929_202454_zpsn0wjqqsy.jpg.html "[Hearth.com] New to me woodgun e100")
![[Hearth.com] New to me woodgun e100](http://s878.photobucket.com/user/avc8130/media/Boiler/20140929_202502_zpscyvhenmb.jpg.html "[Hearth.com] New to me woodgun e100")
![[Hearth.com] New to me woodgun e100](http://s878.photobucket.com/user/avc8130/media/Boiler/20140929_205443_zpsnp7m1rrh.jpg.html "[Hearth.com] New to me woodgun e100")
Here's the video I just shot for split sizes
Hopefully it will help.
Size Matters in Wood Gun E100:
Hopefully it will help.
Size Matters in Wood Gun E100:
Ok I got some new nozzles and a new plug. I installed them this morning and filled the boiler for its maiden burn. Now I have a few questions.
1-what operates the green light ? Mine was on when I started the burn and it went out after a while.
2- how do I know that gasification is happening?
I will post some pictures of my set up soon.
1-what operates the green light ? Mine was on when I started the burn and it went out after a while.
2- how do I know that gasification is happening?
I will post some pictures of my set up soon.
- Dec 8, 2012
- 175
Don't open the load door if the green light is not on. Gasification sounds like a freight train. Good bed of coals is helpful. The boiler should be off/ standby with green light off. need lots more pics so we can see controls, if you have oil back up, etc
Green light hasn't come on for 3-4 hours now and the boiler is now idling. Doesn't come on when I hit the timer either. I'm wondering if the bulb blew out.
The green light will ONLY come on when the unit is running ( fan is on).
It is the end switch for the air intake damper.
When the air intake damper is fully open the green light will come on and stay on until the unit shuts down (fan off).
The unit can be OFF although people will say its idling, for several hours at a time.
The reason you can't manually turn the unit on with the timer knob is because it reached its high limit temperature.
There are 2 aqua stats on the back of the unit and one on the top left front.
On mine, the right one in the back is the operating limit which will shut the unit down or turn it back on when the differential is meet.
The left one in the back is the low limit which in most cases will shut the circulator pump off, in my case it shuts my circ pump off but there is a relay that turns my oil burner on in the basement.
The one on the top front should be your high limit which won't allow the unit to turn until it falls below that temperature.
I have a dual aquastat on the top left front instead of the single high limit. which does what I just described but also has a low shut off setting. so it will shut the unit off when it gets below a low temperature setting, this way the unit won't keep running while the fire is out.
I personally keep my operating limit at 205* with a 30* differential, My low limit is set for 155*
My high limit is set for 220* and the low shut off is set for 140*
You may want to consider a cycle timer and a dual aquastat.
There will be times when you run out of fuel or it didn't relight and you don't want the unit to keep running and cooling itself down even more.
The cycle time is a 4 hour timer that will turn the unit on at what ever you have it set for to keep the coal bed hot so when there is a demand the unit can't get the fire started.
I have my timer set to run for 8 minutes every 90 minutes.
Here is AHS's number 717-987-0099, speak with Darren, he's very informative and helpful.
It is the end switch for the air intake damper.
When the air intake damper is fully open the green light will come on and stay on until the unit shuts down (fan off).
The unit can be OFF although people will say its idling, for several hours at a time.
The reason you can't manually turn the unit on with the timer knob is because it reached its high limit temperature.
There are 2 aqua stats on the back of the unit and one on the top left front.
On mine, the right one in the back is the operating limit which will shut the unit down or turn it back on when the differential is meet.
The left one in the back is the low limit which in most cases will shut the circulator pump off, in my case it shuts my circ pump off but there is a relay that turns my oil burner on in the basement.
The one on the top front should be your high limit which won't allow the unit to turn until it falls below that temperature.
I have a dual aquastat on the top left front instead of the single high limit. which does what I just described but also has a low shut off setting. so it will shut the unit off when it gets below a low temperature setting, this way the unit won't keep running while the fire is out.
I personally keep my operating limit at 205* with a 30* differential, My low limit is set for 155*
My high limit is set for 220* and the low shut off is set for 140*
You may want to consider a cycle timer and a dual aquastat.
There will be times when you run out of fuel or it didn't relight and you don't want the unit to keep running and cooling itself down even more.
The cycle time is a 4 hour timer that will turn the unit on at what ever you have it set for to keep the coal bed hot so when there is a demand the unit can't get the fire started.
I have my timer set to run for 8 minutes every 90 minutes.
Here is AHS's number 717-987-0099, speak with Darren, he's very informative and helpful.
I pulled the bulb out of the light yesterday and as I thought the bulb had blown, so that answers that question. The boiler has been running well for the past two days. The only issue I have had is that the timer stuck on at one point. Is there a reason to leave the unit running on the timer after it has been re loaded? Is it just to ensure that the new wood has a chance to start combusting? Also is it ok to completely fill the firebox? Here is a pic of my "controls", and an overall pic. Thanks for your help![[Hearth.com] New to me woodgun e100](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/144/144610-7855677821c690e7301809f6af5816b9.jpg?hash=veaSY0iRaP "[Hearth.com] New to me woodgun e100")
![[Hearth.com] New to me woodgun e100](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/144/144611-03ed268d55ba027c3a72a3867a088736.jpg?hash=gWsoJlyz0g "[Hearth.com] New to me woodgun e100")
The white timer you have is what I call the purge timer. The only time I use it is when I want to open the loading door when the unit is not running. When I am done I always force the timer back to zero because it has stuck on more than once for me too. Try not to turn the unit back on within 10 minutes or so of the last firing or you'll have an ignition of gasses in the firebox and a "backfire". I often load up the box about 3/4 full in the heart of the heating season, otherwise I go with about 1/2 full. With recent temps half full gives me about an 8 hour run. The 4 hour cycle timer previously mentioned does not appear to be on your boiler.
Your boiler looks to be a bit close to combustables per code?
Your boiler looks to be a bit close to combustables per code?
Hey all....thought I'd poke in and say hi to the new WG guy.....
Quick question....how do you get into your rear door on the WG or service the fan? It looks VERY close to walls. Almost looks like you'd have to pull it out of there to get behind it.
My timer sticks as well, and it is annoying since if it's not ticking....that means it's not counting down and it will cause your WG to hit the high limit...at that point it's just acting as an "on" switch. I'll most likely replace it with some electronic controls in the near future.
It looks like you have some 8" pipe above the 45 at the top of your WG. Have you run into condensation issues? I myself frequently have condensation issues, however I also tend to burn really big splits that aren't fully dry.
Quick question....how do you get into your rear door on the WG or service the fan? It looks VERY close to walls. Almost looks like you'd have to pull it out of there to get behind it.
My timer sticks as well, and it is annoying since if it's not ticking....that means it's not counting down and it will cause your WG to hit the high limit...at that point it's just acting as an "on" switch. I'll most likely replace it with some electronic controls in the near future.
It looks like you have some 8" pipe above the 45 at the top of your WG. Have you run into condensation issues? I myself frequently have condensation issues, however I also tend to burn really big splits that aren't fully dry.
- Status
Similar threads
