New winter work coat (Anything more durable than Carhartt?)

[j7art2]

I currently run a duck cloth Carhartt clone (Old Mill brand currently, but have worn Carhartt, Walls, Dickies, etc all previously) and have owned pretty much the same style insulated duck cloth "Carhartt style" winter coat since I was 16 of various brand flavor, replacing them every 4-5 years once the cuffs get heavily frayed and worn out. The only other non-duck cloth winter coat I can remember ever having as an adult was an insulated nylon Caterpillar work coat, which lasted about the same amount of time and the nylon got a massive tear in the armpit somehow. I figure given that I'm an avid outdoorsman who heats full time with wood, 4-5 years is probably about the best I can expect out of cuffs or other materials before they start to rip or fray, but maybe there's something else out there I'm not aware of.

Does anyone know anything else comparable that might last a little longer than 4-5 years before they start to fray? I've never had much luck with Carhartt proper, so have always just gotten their clones as they've lasted me just as long for half the price (and arguably are warmer). 12oz duck cloth is pretty standard on most of them. It appears Old Mill is no longer the brand sold at Menards and has been replaced by Rugged Wear or something. I imagine quality is probably about the same, but they don't sell a non-hooded version that I could readily find.

Any suggestions on brands or coats to look at that are comparable in cost and may last longer? The only other "clone" brand I haven't bought yet is Berne but I imagine it'll last about the same, and I'm all for using other materials if they're more durable.

 

[Newbie78]

Without fixing any of them with some leather or sturdy nylon (preferably leather) on the cuffs they will all wear out. 4-5 years is pretty good..

I have a couple of down parkas that are far older than that, but they only get worn in the most severe weather. They have leather on the cuffs and show no wear there after many, many years. Had to sew leather elbow patches on one of them so far.

my current winter daily chore coat is a Cat and it has done exactly the same as yours did. Including the ripped under arm, lol. It is comfortable and reasonably warm for a light winter coat. Pretty durable too overall.

I think all you have to do to nearly double the life of your coats is fix the cuffs. Winter overalls do the same on the inside bottom of the legs. A little leather there fixes that problem too. A little sewing from time to time goes a long way to increase longevity.

leather elbow patches fix that problem that you will run into by year 6 or 7.

ps, I gave my carrhart away to one of my sons in basically brand-new condition. I generally buy the clone stuff too.

PS, I've been living, playing and working in northern canada winters for all of my 63 years...

 

[j7art2]

Without fixing any of them with some leather or sturdy nylon (preferably leather) on the cuffs they will all wear out. 4-5 years is pretty good..

I have a couple of down parkas that are far older than that, but they only get worn in the most severe weather. They have leather on the cuffs and show no wear there after many, many years. Had to sew leather elbow patches on one of them so far.

my current winter daily chore coat is a Cat and it has done exactly the same as yours did. Including the ripped under arm, lol. It is comfortable and reasonably warm for a light winter coat.

I think all you have to do to nearly double the life of your coats is fix the cuffs. Winter overalls do the same on the inside bottom of the legs. A little leather there fixes that problem too. A little sewing from time to time goes a long way to increase longevity.

leather elbow patches fix that problem that you will run into by year 6 or 7.

ps, I gave my carrhart away to one of my sons in basically brand-new condition. I generally buy the clone stuff too.

PS, I've been living, playing and working in northern canada winters for all of my 63 years...

I've never seen them fixed up with leather cuffs, but that makes sense that it would work. Stitching leather and duck cloth together sounds like a fantastic time too. Do you hand sew them? I imagine whoever was doing them otherwise would have to have a mean sewing machine.

 

[Newbie78]

Hand sew. Thin, soft leather isn't too bad to sew. I'm a poor sewer. I try to make it look nice, but it rarely works out. Lol. But it does work. Sometimes my wife has done it to a far better standard.

you could take a brand-new garment to a saddle maker or a cobbler and I bet they could fix you up in minutes for a reasonable charge to literally double the life of your coats and overalls. Or even an older garment.

 

[Newbie78]

if you look close, you will see the thin leather at the cuffs. That's about all it takes. Slightly more might be slightly better. This is a decent, proper down parka. The brand is over-rated and has become a"brand" over time so they are ridiculously over-priced. My first parka I bought when I was 17 with my own money was $80.00 on sale. It was a "woods" brand and goosedown. It's long gone. Shoulda kept the down...

the one in the pic has a coyote fur trimmed hood I think. Kinda cheap for a 1500.00 parka (a guess). The proper fur is wolverine as it doesn't ice up.

anyway, if your main problem is cuffs, that can be easily solved.

Obviously i pulled the pic off the internet. All the other "parkas" that came up were namby pamby things that would suffer largely from real use. Disappointing to me, a winter-gear guy..

 

[Easy Livin’ 3000]

I've never seen them fixed up with leather cuffs, but that makes sense that it would work. Stitching leather and duck cloth together sounds like a fantastic time too. Do you hand sew them? I imagine whoever was doing them otherwise would have to have a mean sewing machine.

When I was a teenager, I used to hunt with a guy who would sew thick leather on all of the wear areas of his coats and pants. I realized why, on my first upland hunt with him. He dove right into the worst thickets and briar patches, and expected me to do the same. Completely destroyed my clothes.

I don't know how he sewed the leather on, but Dad used to have a leather awl to sew tough stuff. I believe you can still buy a leather awl. The guys that sew leather for a living use heavy duty sewing machines, but that'd be overkill for a couple of cuffs.

 

[Newbie78]

Of course they still make awls. I even have one on my swiss army knife. I could dig up a few more around here.

 

[brenndatomu]

My Carhartt's always fray at the cuffs too...seems like each time they get washed it takes XX life off them...haven't tried it yet, but I have wondered if hitting those newly frayed areas with some fabric glue right away would help extend things some...

 

[Easy Livin’ 3000]

My Carhartt's always fray at the cuffs too...seems like each time they get washed it takes XX life off them...haven't tried it yet, but I have wondered if hitting those newly frayed areas with some fabric glue right away would help extend things some...

How about some flex seal? Seems to work for everything else, at least on the commercials!

I threw bricks at a brickyard one summer during college. The only gloves that held up for even one day, were the thick canvas gloves that they dipped in thick rubber.

I do have a feeling that rubber coated cuffs might slowly pull all the hairs off your wrist and back of your hand.

 

[Newbie78]

Leather. Rubber is cold in the cold.

the fur has a purpose. It's purpose is not decorative. It is to break the wind around your face. In case you didn't know that.

 

[salecker]

I live in insulated coveralls when winter hits.I have 3 different ones that i chose from depending on temp.
There is a seamstress in my town who does great work fixing whats worth fixing.
A good pair of insulated coveralls is expensive here,bought a industrial lot this year and as i was walking around it i found a pair of Helly Hanson pile lined coveralls,bonas they cost over $300 new in great shape other than some fading.
Helly Hanson makes a coat/ insulated pants system as well.They have a heavy duty nylon shell with safety stripes om them.

 

[j7art2]

I went digging through my coat closet and found my old Caterpillar coat. I checked it over really well and couldn't find the rip I knew I had. I talked to my wife, and it appears that I might have bought a second one at one point and gotten it absolutely FILTHY but didn't throw it away.

I'm assuming I must have just put it away after getting a replacement coat and simply forgot about it.

So the good news is, I have another Caterpillar coat that's in much better shape than my Old Mill, but is absolutely horrendously dirty. I washed it in the tub and changed the tub water 6 times yesterday and was still getting dirt and silt. My Old Mill I just washed by hand too the other day and have been doing firewood with all fall only had to have the water changed out 3 times to run clear and it's never been washed since ownership. Lol.

If I can get this clean, I might be able to go another year or two without needing another coat... or maybe that's why I got a new one to begin with.

 

[bholler]

Lol I am lucky if I get a season out of my work coats. Lately I have just been getting ridgecut coats from tractor supply they are cheap and honestly last as long as the more expensive ones

 

[JRHAWK9]

I've been using the same ole cheap vest for many years. When I'm out cutting wood I can't dress too warm or I get too warm. I typically wear a t-shirt with a sweat shirt over that and my vest on top of that. I don't like bulk on my arms when working. I will normally shed the vest after working for a bit, unless it's under 15° or so. Hell, I've been known to shed my sweatshirt and work in a t-shirt in 32° temps before. I have to keep working though, if I stop for too long I start to get cold. LOL

 

[bholler]

I've been using the same ole cheap vest for many years. When I'm out cutting wood I can't dress too warm or I get too warm. I typically wear a t-shirt with a sweat shirt over that and my vest on top of that. I don't like bulk on my arms when working. I will normally shed the vest after working for a bit, unless it's under 15° or so. Hell, I've been known to shed my sweatshirt and work in a t-shirt in 32° temps before. I have to keep working though, if I stop for too long I start to get cold. LOL

I wear a vest allot as well usually over a sweatshirt when it's real cold it goes under my coat as well

 

[EatenByLimestone]

Look into tin cloth. You can buy coats already treated, apply pre-made product, or make your own to apply.

 

[JRHAWK9]

I wear a vest allot as well usually over a sweatshirt when it's real cold it goes under my coat as well

The vest I wear is a heavier winter coat type. It's like a winter coat minus the sleeves.

 

[bholler]

The vest I wear is a heavier winter coat type. It's like a winter coat minus the sleeves.

Mine is like a work coat minus the sleeves

 

[salecker]

Fleece vests in the winter here
I don't like bulk on my arms either.T shirts all year long when it gets cold the layers start to add up

 

[30WCF]

I was going to suggest waxing the cuffs, but I see tin cloth was already suggested. Deluth Trading “fire hose pants” are pretty tough, I’m not sure if they have a coat that heavy.

 

[bholler]

I was going to suggest waxing the cuffs, but I see tin cloth was already suggested. Deluth Trading “fire hose pants” are pretty tough, I’m not sure if they have a coat that heavy.

Yes but ridiculously expensive. I can't justify spending that much on work clothes

 

[Woodsplitter67]

When working, I normally don't where a jacket. I put on a Sweatshirt hat and light gloves. I get to hot moving around. It could be 15 degrees out.. still no jacket..

 

[bholler]

When working, I normally don't where a jacket. I put on a Sweatshirt hat and light gloves. I get to hot moving around. It could be 15 degrees out.. still no jacket..

Yeah I many times am on a roof breaking out tiles and dropping a liner in pretty low temps. I need layers anything under 25 or so the top layer is a work coat. What goes under the coat varies depending upon the job and outside temp.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

I wear hoodies and various layers under them. That, if there isn’t any wind, will work into the 20s. If there’s wind, a coat goes over the hoodie!

 

[30WCF]

We have been having good luck with the rip stop carhart coats at work. They are the high viz neon coats. But they are pretty durable working around concrete and metal.