New wood insert in Michigan

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.

Mirabai

New Member
Feb 7, 2020
4
Michigan
We recently moved to southeast Michigan and decided we need a wood burning fireplace. We are new to wood burning, so we would love hear some opinions on our choices and if the prices sound reasonable. We are looking to use the unit as supplemental heat to our propane furnace. The house is in the country and our closest neighbor is about 500 ft away, so smell or smoke isn't an issue. The biggest constraint is the fireplace opening, which is rather narrow at 27.5 inches at the front and 22 inches at the back (20 in depth).

We have visited 3 of the 4 dealers within 20 miles. Quadra Fire and Vermont Castings don't have any units that will fit, which leaves Lopi and Regency. The Regency units that will fit are bigger, so we're leaning towards them. The dealer near us has a 2019 Regency i2400 for $2000 , including blower, or we can buy a 2020 Regency i2500 for $3600 with blower. The newer unit has a catalytic combuster, which is appealing, but we are struggling to justify the additional cost.

We have had one local installer out, as the Regency dealer doesn't install, and they felt the units we are looking at would work. They quoted us $2900 for installation of 20 ft of insulated lining and the unit (so $4900-$6500 total). They refused to install a block plate, but we can push harder if necessary. For comparison, the Lopi dealer estimated around $5000 for the Answer NexGen-Fyre installed with liner and the Quadra Fire dealer estimated around $4500 for the 2700i installed with liner (but it's too wide).

Do these prices look reasonable? Are there other units we should consider? Do you think the i2500 is worth another $1600? Thank you for any guidance.
 
You have another house 500 feet away AND live in the country? ;lol

You need a blockoff plate and an insulated liner. If a dealer says no to either one of those, don't let them near your install. Even if they capitulate later- do you really want someone with that level of knowledge doing your work?

You can learn everything you need to do it yourself here, which will save you a lot of the install price (bear in mind that stoves are heavy and installing liners isn't always easy). Liners are expensive,though, so not all of that is labor.
 
While you are at it, please go out and get some wood. Cut it, buy it, srcounge it. You will need dry wood to make any modern unit work. You have been reading these pages so I assume you may have heard that before. I cannot understate the importance of dry wood for optimum performance. Go get the equipment and safety gear, cut some trees and get them split and stacked before the end of March. You will not regret that come October when you will begin seriously burning.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Dmitry and jetsam
While you are at it, please go out and get some wood. Cut it, buy it, srcounge it. You will need dry wood to make any modern unit work. You have been reading these pages so I assume you may have heard that before. I cannot understate the importance of dry wood for optimum performance. Go get the equipment and safety gear, cut some trees and get them split and stacked before the end of March. You will not regret that come October when you will begin seriously burning.

And make it softwood for your first year. If you split, stack, and top topcover pine now, it will be ready for next year.

Cancel your gym membership- dropping, limbing, bucking, splitting, hauling, and stacking wood is a good workout! (Plus you get to haul and stack it all at least one more time later when it gets moved inside for burning.)

My grandfather used to say, "Wood warms you twice- once when you split it and once when your it," but I've come to realize that whoever came up with that saying maybe wasn't so good at counting. ;)

If you are planning to buy wood, buy wood for 2-3 years out now and get it covered. "seasoned" wood never is, and if it's hardwood it needs 2-3 years to dry.
 
You have another house 500 feet away AND live in the country? ;lol

You need a blockoff plate and an insulated liner. If a dealer says no to either one of those, don't let them near your install. Even if they capitulate later- do you really want someone with that level of knowledge doing your work?

You can learn everything you need to do it yourself here, which will save you a lot of the install price (bear in mind that stoves are heavy and installing liners isn't always easy). Liners are expensive,though, so not all of that is labor.

We were city folk. Dirt roads, wells and septic, 10 acre lots, this feels like country to us. According to my grown daughter, we moved to the middle of nowhere. My wife and I are loving it.

I am reasonably handy, but getting a 400 lbs insert out of my truck, through the house and into the fireplace sounds daunting. Besides, my project list is feeling full. I already ripped up half the flooring in the house and if I take too long to finish, I might find myself sleeping in the barn.
 
While you are at it, please go out and get some wood. Cut it, buy it, srcounge it. You will need dry wood to make any modern unit work. You have been reading these pages so I assume you may have heard that before. I cannot understate the importance of dry wood for optimum performance. Go get the equipment and safety gear, cut some trees and get them split and stacked before the end of March. You will not regret that come October when you will begin seriously burning.

Everybody is booked for 6 weeks for installs. So, I doubt we will get much burning done this year. I have already cut down a 2 ft diameter catalpa tree that was in the way of another project. It is pretty light stuff, so I am hoping it could be ready by next year. I plan to get a couple of cords this Spring as well. We have a number of large oaks; red, white, and scarlet mostly. I just have struggled to cut any of them down because they are so majestic.
 
Everybody is booked for 6 weeks for installs. So, I doubt we will get much burning done this year. I have already cut down a 2 ft diameter catalpa tree that was in the way of another project. It is pretty light stuff, so I am hoping it could be ready by next year. I plan to get a couple of cords this Spring as well. We have a number of large oaks; red, white, and scarlet mostly. I just have struggled to cut any of them down because they are so majestic.
Catalpa will dry fast but it doesn't have many BTUs per peice of wood.
 
Might want to look at the Enviro Kodiak 1700. I have read several people in the group are happy with that insert.
 
I already ripped up half the flooring in the house and if I take too long to finish, I might find myself sleeping in the barn.
We have a number of large oaks; red, white, and scarlet mostly. I just have struggled to cut any of them down because they are so majestic.

Nothing wrong with sleeping in the barn;lol

To me cutting down live versions of any tree specie you listed is nearly sacrilege! Any downed or dead standing tree's on your place? Those are my targets.

The recommendation of getting softwood now and getting it properly stacked for seasoning for next year is spot on. In my location Oak will not be anywhere near seasoned correctly in one year. Do some serious research on seasoning wood. Its crucial.
 
We recently moved to southeast Michigan and decided we need a wood burning fireplace. We are new to wood burning, so we would love hear some opinions on our choices and if the prices sound reasonable. We are looking to use the unit as supplemental heat to our propane furnace. The house is in the country and our closest neighbor is about 500 ft away, so smell or smoke isn't an issue. The biggest constraint is the fireplace opening, which is rather narrow at 27.5 inches at the front and 22 inches at the back (20 in depth).

We have visited 3 of the 4 dealers within 20 miles. Quadra Fire and Vermont Castings don't have any units that will fit, which leaves Lopi and Regency. The Regency units that will fit are bigger, so we're leaning towards them. The dealer near us has a 2019 Regency i2400 for $2000 , including blower, or we can buy a 2020 Regency i2500 for $3600 with blower. The newer unit has a catalytic combuster, which is appealing, but we are struggling to justify the additional cost.

We have had one local installer out, as the Regency dealer doesn't install, and they felt the units we are looking at would work. They quoted us $2900 for installation of 20 ft of insulated lining and the unit (so $4900-$6500 total). They refused to install a block plate, but we can push harder if necessary. For comparison, the Lopi dealer estimated around $5000 for the Answer NexGen-Fyre installed with liner and the Quadra Fire dealer estimated around $4500 for the 2700i installed with liner (but it's too wide).

Do these prices look reasonable? Are there other units we should consider? Do you think the i2500 is worth another $1600? Thank you for any guidance.
I have a Regency i2400 , I am in the 7th season with this insert. It does the job of heating my 2 levels house that total 1600 s.f. The secret is to have a good supply of dry wood. I cut and split end of March for burning starting mid fall 2021. I already have a good supply of hardwood, mainly beech that is 2 year old. Your climate would be similar to mine. The Regency runs 24/7 from october to early May. Change gaskets every season, a good sweep every 3 months and it is trouble free. You would not be disappointed with this make. I would not pay the extra for the i2500.
 

Attachments

  • [Hearth.com] New wood insert in Michigan
    IMG_4223.webp
    47.2 KB · Views: 142
Last edited:
If you just moved in and have 10 acres, go get the standing dead conifers that are in the best shape. They are easy to spot in the winter.

In the spring, you can more easily see what hardwoods are dead or dying, and take those down. The conifers are to burn next year, and the hardwoods are to burn in 2022 or 2023.

I would never take down a giant old oak older than I am just for firewood. Plenty fall down by themselves!

10 acres probably isn't enough to sustain you in firewood, but you may have neighbors who will give or trade access to their woodlot. If your 10 is wooded, it should get you through a couple-few years with standing dead and recent deadfall.

If you are near a town, you can also reach out to the tree services there. If you tell them they can come dump a truck anytime, they're likely to take you up on it if the drive isn't too far. (Be prepared for some big uglies if your tree service also sells firewood. They'll keep the straight grained stuff for themselves and bring you all the elm and gnarly old maples. But free wood is free wood, especially if you have a long bar, a sharp chain, and a hydraulic splitter!)
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: tadmaz
If your in Michigan, you should have some dead Ash on your property. Cut that and it will be perfect by next winter, or even right now for the tops. As I'm sure you're aware we are in the mud season in Michigan, the ground in not frozen, but we have snow on the ground with more to come. Cut some wood on Friday or Saturday when the bottom falls to 1 F at night, at least the top inch or two will be frozen. Also the install price seems high for 20ft of insulated pipe. I would definitely go with the 2019 unit, the price for the 2020 isn't justified.
 
We were city folk. Dirt roads, wells and septic, 10 acre lots, this feels like country to us. According to my grown daughter, we moved to the middle of nowhere. My wife and I are loving it.

I am reasonably handy, but getting a 400 lbs insert out of my truck, through the house and into the fireplace sounds daunting. Besides, my project list is feeling full. I already ripped up half the flooring in the house and if I take too long to finish, I might find myself sleeping in the barn.

You'll need some friends and an appliance dolly.
 
I got a 700lb stove in with help from my brother, don't worry. 10 acres is a lot of land, cut the dead and downed wood and you'll be fine for next year.
 
I got a 700lb stove in with help from my brother, don't worry. 10 acres is a lot of land, cut the dead and downed wood and you'll be fine for next year.

Not to mention, you said you were in SE Michigan, and that's where I am, Howell. Go talk to local farmers. Many times they have a tree or two that block their fields from sun, and would be all too happy to have you take them down. Also before planting season if a tree falls into the field, they have to deal with it. Having you patrol the edges of the field would be a benefit for them. Note, don't drive over the Winter Wheat.
 
I purchased an i2400 this year and love it. It took me awhile to find an older version and not the 2020 certified one. If I load it up it would heat our 1,700sqft 2 story easily. I paid a little over $2,200 for mine so you are getting a pretty solid deal.

Good to see another Michigander on here.
 

Attachments

  • [Hearth.com] New wood insert in Michigan
    i2400.webp
    140.9 KB · Views: 155
Not to mention, you said you were in SE Michigan, and that's where I am, Howell. Go talk to local farmers. Many times they have a tree or two that block their fields from sun, and would be all too happy to have you take them down. Also before planting season if a tree falls into the field, they have to deal with it. Having you patrol the edges of the field would be a benefit for them. Note, don't drive over the Winter Wheat.

I'm just down the road near Pinckney. Great advice about the farmers. I hadn't thought of that. Any advice on chimney sweeps or installers in the area? Stay warm. Tonight's looking cold.
 
I'm just down the road near Pinckney. Great advice about the farmers. I hadn't thought of that. Any advice on chimney sweeps or installers in the area? Stay warm. Tonight's looking cold.

My installer went belly up, I'm not sure why, their are a ton of wood heaters here. Chimney sweeps around here are a joke, if you actually get one to show up they are afraid to get up on the roof. I have a steep pitch, but I've been up there a number of times as SIL, and there is no fear there.
 
I'm in SE Michigan also and just had a freestanding stove installed. One piece of advice I have if you're planning on having it installed: make sure you have an installer lined up before you purchase. The dealer I bought my stove from was a bit of a drive, so I bought the stove from them and was planning on having a local chimney sweep install it, but that didn't work out. I called a few local hearth/fireplace shops in the area and they all said they wouldn't install units that they didn't sell.

It looks like you already got some quotes for an install only, but maybe not from the best installer. Just wanted to make you aware before you purchase that it may be difficult finding a good installer that isn't the dealer of the specific stove you want.
 
Might want to look at the Enviro Kodiak 1700. I have read several people in the group are happy with that insert.

Won't fit. Even its little brother, the 1200 is too wide.

No way to swing a standalone stove feeding into the fireplace chimney? That would give you a lot more options!
 
We were city folk. Dirt roads, wells and septic, 10 acre lots, this feels like country to us. According to my grown daughter, we moved to the middle of nowhere. My wife and I are loving it

We did something similar four years ago, although our lot sizes are smaller. :) We moved from suburban Boston to Cape Cod. Make our own power, water, septic, etc. We're on the grid in a residential community, but with no streetlights or sidewalks, it feels like the country!
 
By the way, adding a block-off plate after the installation isn't that hard. I added one in our first house...make a cardboard template, cut it in half to fit around the stove pipe, etc. Lots of posts on the forum about block-off plates...

When we had the insert installed at our new (to us) house, the installer installed a block-off plate and did a very tidy job. Higher up in the firebox than I did in the first (where the damper was) but it works...
 
Won't fit. Even its little brother, the 1200 is too wide.

No way to swing a standalone stove feeding into the fireplace chimney? That would give you a lot more options!
Based on the OP's initial description of 27.5" wide at the front and 22" wide at the rear, it looks to me like both the Enviro Kodiak 1700 and 1200 would fit.
 

Attachments

Based on the OP's initial description of 27.5" wide at the front and 22" wide at the rear, it looks to me like both the Enviro Kodiak 1700 and 1200 would fit.
You might be right, but it would be a tough squeeze. The manual lists both as 27" wide at the front and either 22 or 22 3/8 at the rear (depending on whether you trust the charts or the drawings in the manual...
 
An Enviro insert was one of the few inserts that would fit the low height of our fireplace. Width wasn’t an issue for us, but height was as ours was low in front but also tapered very slightly at the very back. It’s important to measure the depth to figure out where you might hit the minimum. I do love my Enviro and would certainly recommend it, but I don’t think the OP mentioned it, and they’re hard to find since Enviro stopped producing them last year.

Going back to the original post, I will say that we are glad we went for a larger rather than smaller insert. Our climate is mild, but we’ve got oodles of cubic feet to heat. Our wood is also anything but straight. It’s nice to have some wiggle room in the firebox. I would think that a cold climate would be a good reason to choose a larger firebox.