New wood stove

[bodhran]

Sorry if this has been asked before but I am at a loss. I recently went from a Regency I1200 wood burning insert to a Timberwolf 2300 Free standing stove.The installers used the same chimney but with a thimble through the wall into the chimney then a t to the stainless steel liner.

The issue I'm having is that every time I open the door to put more wood in the smoke curls out through the open door. My house isn't air tight by any means. I never had a hitch with the two inserts previous. Could it be the Timberwolf 2300 is too big for the chimney to handle ( not able to draw the smoke ). I'll provide answers to any further questions if I can.


Thanks in advance,

Aubrey

 

[jatoxico]

I guess you have a 90 elbow now? That could change things. Before opening do you open the air and give it a few seconds? Also open the door a crack let it draw then open slowly?

 

[ridensnow23]

Have you tried cracking the door for 30 - 60 secs before you open it all the way?

How tall is your chimney? The 'T' they put in to connect to the insert probably reduced your draft a bit. Any elbows in the pipe will cause a reduction in draft.

Keeping the door cracked a bit can help to get the coals heated up and get the draft sucking upward again.

 

[bodhran]

The pipe goes through the wall to a T and then goes up about a slight turn about three feet with a bit of flex and then about ten feet to the top with solid liner which is about three feet over the roof. I have tried opening the door a crack and waiting. I have opened a window a bit.

Still getting smoke spilling out no matter what stage the wood is burning at. It's bad when trying to refill the stove. I also noticed that even in high wind there is no need to cut down the air flow. Seems the lads that installed the chimney are not getting what I'm trying to explain to them. It's a WETT certified company.

Its a huge stove too so I get a lot of smoke in the room in a short time. The two wood inserts that I used in the fireplace over the last few years never had a problem.


Oh yeah. If you notice the first hole they cut they missed and went into solid brick.

 

[Ram 1500 with an axe...]

it is probably your draft, I don't like that elbow.... You definitely need advice, might even need to do something with that pipe, others that know better will help you....good luck A.....B

 

[begreen]

That is a short vertical before the 90. Is the horiz. section or pipe pitched uphill toward the chimney at least 1/4" per foot? They may need to investigate that flex to rigid coupling to make sure there is no leakage. If all checks out then you will probably need to add more flue to make up for the new double 90 turns in the flue path.

 

[kennyp2339]

I would get rid of that 90 elbow and change it out to (2) 45 deg with a strait piece of pipe in between them, I would also add another 3ft extension to the top of the chimney, and go with a less restrictive cap. A chimney is the engine that drive the stove, you can have the best tested stove in the whole road but if your chimney is not up to snuff then the stove will never work right.

 

[bodhran]

That is a short vertical before the 90. Is the horiz. section or pipe pitched uphill toward the chimney at least 1/4" per foot? They may need to investigate that flex to rigid coupling to make sure there is no leakage. If all checks out then you will probably need to add more flue to make up for the new double 90 turns in the flue path.

No it isn't. I don't think the company that installed it has much of an understanding of certain chimneys. They are a chimney sweep first and do installs. I have used them for years to clean my chimney and assumed all would go well. I spent a lot of money to get that chimney done but I'm wondering if I may be better going with a chimney straight up from the stove? I'm thinking that stove would need a lot more draft than a smaller stove?

 

[Ram 1500 with an axe...]

Better idea....

 

[begreen]

No it isn't. I don't think the company that installed it has much of an understanding of certain chimneys. They are a chimney sweep first and do installs. I have used them for years to clean my chimney and assumed all would go well. I spent a lot of money to get that chimney done but I'm wondering if I may be better going with a chimney straight up from the stove? I'm thinking that stove would need a lot more draft than a smaller stove?

That needs correcting. kenneyp's suggestion of using 45s is also a good one. You want to minimize uphill resistance in the smoke path as it head to the 90 deg tee in the chimney.

 

[bodhran]

Can't get a reply from other company. Called another one and they said the two 90's were fine. Seems this is gonna be a battle.

 

[mol1jb]

2x 90* elbows in themselves aren't bad. But with poor draft circumstances they definitely don't help matters. I have 2x 90* elbows and a 3ft vertical on my chimney setup and it works just fine for me because I have excellent draft.

 

[bodhran]

Probably going to need more length on the pipe. This was installed on January 24 2014. Is that creosote running down the pipe?

 

[begreen]

Go for the 45s first. That may be sufficient. Don't discuss this, insist. You are the one paying the bill.

 

[bodhran]

Well, I finally got another company to come in to do a draft test to see why my stove was smoking so much. Turns out there was just a single wall thimble going through the gyproc and brick. They condemned it right away. Also the liner was full of creosote after only two months of burning and said there would have been a chimney fire soon. I'm burning dry wood 19 % m/c so I blame it on the lousy drafting problems and the install of the tee on a downward angle on the other side of the chimney wall. The draft test will have to wait.

 

[begreen]

So glad you got another set of eyes to look this over. Hope they get you in good working condition soon.

 

[bodhran]

So glad you got another set of eyes to look this over. Hope they get you in good working condition soon.

Thanks...me too.