Newbie looking for suggestions for a basic, reliable, older, stove...

[MG-70]

Hello! I'm new to the site, have done a bit of reading on the basics of setting up a wood stove, different types of stoves, etc., and found this site when I was searching for info. on a stove I found on craigslist.

I recently bought a mid 1970's modular home, basically a 1000sqft first floor, with a similar footprint basement. The house came with a brick fireplace in the basement that's been bricked shut and capped with what looks to be a 6" stainless pipe in the center. Even though there's a walk out door, there are only three small windows (24"W X 12"H). The area in front of the fireplace has ceramic tiles which I eventually plan to replace with larger porcelain tiles as well as extend the tiled area and replace the 1970's carpet with vinyl plank or some other hard surface that's easy to install. I have not looked down the chimney to see if it's lined or not but there's a nice aluminum or stainless steek cap with a vents on the sides to keep out animals. Perhaps not so coincidentally, the fireplace sits directly under the two main bedrooms (at the end of the hall on the 1st floor), which is a great thing.

The wife says I should be focusing on the more essential, countless, supplies I will be buying for the renovation, but one of my daily activities has been checking craigslist and other places for decent, yet inexpensive, wood stoves that look good and in addition to creating a cozy room could complement the electric baseboard heating currently in the house, or serve as a main source of heat if there's a power outage. The house is located in North Central Maryland, in Frederick County. The temps 1 hour South of there, where I have lived for many years, probably averages 25F-35F in the winter nights of January and February. There's no wood shed outside, but there is a closet for storing wood in the basement, and lots of people selling split firewood nearby (

With all that said, I was wondering if there are some basic sizes or "capacities" or features I should look for, given the info. above, my limited budget, and my primary need, which for now is entertainment more than anything (depending on how cold the house gets and how much I spend on electricity this coming winter, that could change).

I'd like it to have a glass door, or doors, and not have a catalyst, in order to avoid added expenses. I've also found some models with no glass, like an Alaskan Kodiak, and a Timberline model with two doors and small glass pieces.

Below are a couple of models that I found for under $250 with a couple of hours drive.

Jotul 8, first model, red (very pretty, doesn't appear to have an ash tray, no catalyst). I'm planning on going to see it, but I don't know if it's big enough for 1000sqft, or 2000sqft if I count both floors, and don't know if it'll fit in a Toyota Camry trunk and back seat, if I remove the door or whatnot (if I like it, I can always rent a truck at Home Depot and pick it up).

Erin 90 (beautiful stove, black, has ash tray, not sure if it has a catalyst or not)



Please feel free to recommend models I should specifically look for, or if I should consider the models with no glass.

Thanks in advance, and I hope everyone has a safe weekend!

 

[begreen]

The Jotul 8 will be a good basic starter stove as long as there are no issues with it. Regardless of stove choice, they all need fully seasoned firewood to perform well and it is really hard to buy fully seasoned wood in many areas in spite of the seller's claims. Some reputable dealers will have kiln dried, but that does not always mean dry to the core. Ask the seller what the firewood's tested moisture content is. It should be below 20% to burn well.

 

[River]

You touched on some of the things I consider important in a stove. I would no longer purchase a stove without an ash drawer. When using a wood stove without an ash drawer for the sole source of heat in a home, it may be impossible to let the stove cool sufficiently to shovel the ash out of it without permitting the house to also cool to uncomfortable levels. Shoveling hot ash from a stove results in ash all over the house -- natural convection currents sends the ash up as it is dumped into a metal pail.

Of course, if the stove is just supplementary heat, some of that concern goes away. You can let the stove cool without freezing your family. But an ash drawer it convenient and clean, so I would still choose a stove with an ash drawer.

A window can be nice. When I have had a stove with a window (we use one with a window and one without, right now), I use the visual to help control the burn. But, in my opinion, a window is not necessary. We learn how to tell what a stove needs without seeing the fire -- and it works. Also, windows can be extra work. A window will get dirty. Some stoves are worse than others.

All that said (or typed, as it were), if you want to sit by the stove and relax, by all means get one with a window -- especially one with a window that tends to stay clean. But if you want heat (entertainment, not so much), you can absolutely forego the window and save yourself a window-cleaning chore. You will learn to know when the stove needs more air, fueling, etc. by the sounds it makes and the heat it puts out. Of course, you will also open the door and look once in a while.

Many years ago, we had a stove (Vermont Castings) with a catalyst. Some on this forum like their catalytic stoves, but we did not for the reason you stated: "added expenses." Also hassle. We ended up giving that stove away -- and it was not very old. It had other issues, too, but the catalyst was one of them.

I wish you the best in your search, purchase, transport, and installation. Be careful, wood heat is habit forming!

 

[bholler]

I have had lots of stoves. Some with ash pans some without. And I have never used the ash pan. I always found it easier to just shovel into a bucket. When done on a hot stove all the ash should get sucked up the chimney.

 

[begreen]

Likewise. Our ash pan has served more time as a bun warmer than an ash collector.

 

[MG-70]

Follow-up to this. I haven't forgotten the search for the stove. The seller of the Jotul hasn't given me an opportunity to go see it and is slow to reply, but even though I've been busy with two remodels and a move, I'm still keeping an eye out for a decent stove. A friend who has used a wood stove as primary heat for the last 20 years said that to him the ash tray is essential but to me it's neither here not there. All else equal, I'd buy the one with a tray, but it wouldn't be a deal breaker if it didn't have one. For the now, I'm still interested in glass, though.

Question, and I'm jumping the trigger and don't have the exact measurements, but if the chimney liner opening on the face of the fireplace is lower than the exhaust exit on the back of the stove, can I use a pipe with a drop or will I have to break the brick and raise the female end of the chimney liner entering the fireplace?

Thanks again and a safe weekend for all!

 

[begreen]

Smoke does not go downhill very readily. The stove pipe should always go up hill at least 1/4" per foot. Can you post a picture of the current setup where the stove is proposed to go?

 

[MG-70]

I kind of figured that would be the answer. I don't have any decent pics of the area because I'm working on the walk in level and the downstairs has become a storage or staging area. I'm going to post the only pic I have of it, crooked, out of focus, and lit by an LED flashlight, and I will make a note to take better pics, and perhaps pull the cap off and measure the distance to the tile floor, next time I go to the property.

Thanks for the help and have a good weekend!

 

[begreen]

Thanks, that helps. It looks like no stove will fit on the hearth without it being extended. And most stoves need more headroom from the ceiling. In this case, the stove may need to go on a hearth pad on the floor in front of the hearth. What is the centerline height of the flue thimble from the floor?

 

[MG-70]

I will have to get back with the measurements at a later time. Based on the floor being only partially tiled, I assume the previous stove sat on the tiled floor in front of the fireplace (I imagine that's the hearth pad you mention). Note, on the lower right corner of the fireplace is a hinged metal door whose function I'm not sure but which looks like a wood stove door (I found it open and have left it open since buying the house in the Spring). There is a nice, I believe stainless, cap on top of the chimney. I have torn out that box to the right of the fireplace which was used for storing wood. All paneling and drop ceiling will eventually be replaced with drywall and the ceiling should end up at or close to 96" (8'). I'm sorry I don't know the correct terminology. Obviously, prior to firing anything in that chimney, I plan on inspecting it and/or having a professional inspect it to make sure all components are safe for use. The roof will be replaced in the near future.

Thanks again and have a good evening!

 

[begreen]

If the floor has ceramic tile on a cement floor it's sufficient.

 

[Rusty18]

@MG-70
Any update?

 

[MG-70]

Rusty18, I'm sorry to say no changes when it comes to the wood stove. The seller of the Jotul never answered multiple messages, even though the stove is still listed for sale, and I've been focusing on more immediate fixes and upgrades and haven't kept up with the search for the stove, although I'll eventually get back to it.

I didn't pull the chimney cap to look down it, but did inspect behind the bricked up fireplace, and unfortunately saw no metal stove pipe of any sort. Below are some added measurements and pics.

The hearth is 8" taller than the tiled pad in front of it.
From the tiled pad to the center of the 6" ID ceramic pipe it is 26" High.
The opening on metal door on the lower right hand corner of the fireplace is 8"X8."

I suspect that if 26" is too high for a stove pipe, that I can easily raise the base of a stove with cement blocks.

Question: If I were to install a wood stove, would I need to get the chimney inspected to determine whether or not it needs to be lined, or is it generally recommended that a liner be installed, given the age of the house (1975)? The liner matter is something I had planned on researching. Ideally, I'd like something I can install and clean/service. I didn't notice anything out of place with the chimney when I replaced the roof, fascia, etc., but I'm not one to gamble when it comes to safety.

Thanks again, and I hope everyone has a safe 2024!

 

[bholler]

Rusty18, I'm sorry to say no changes when it comes to the wood stove. The seller of the Jotul never answered multiple messages, even though the stove is still listed for sale, and I've been focusing on more immediate fixes and upgrades and haven't kept up with the search for the stove, although I'll eventually get back to it.

I didn't pull the chimney cap to look down it, but did inspect behind the bricked up fireplace, and unfortunately saw no metal stove pipe of any sort. Below are some added measurements and pics.

The hearth is 8" taller than the tiled pad in front of it.
From the tiled pad to the center of the 6" ID ceramic pipe it is 26" High.
The opening on metal door on the lower right hand corner of the fireplace is 8"X8."

I suspect that if 26" is too high for a stove pipe, that I can easily raise the base of a stove with cement blocks.

Question: If I were to install a wood stove, would I need to get the chimney inspected to determine whether or not it needs to be lined, or is it generally recommended that a liner be installed, given the age of the house (1975)? The liner matter is something I had planned on researching. Ideally, I'd like something I can install and clean/service. I didn't notice anything out of place with the chimney when I replaced the roof, fascia, etc., but I'm not one to gamble when it comes to safety.

Thanks again, and I hope everyone has a safe 2024!

It needs to be lined

 

[Rusty18]

Somebody didn’t do you any favors with that brick wall.

 

[MG-70]

It needs to be lined

I'll make sure to research the materials and prices before proceeding.

Somebody didn’t do you any favors with that brick wall.

There's no shortage of work to do there! I assume an easier solution would've been to simply have left the front of the fireplace open and run the stove pipe into and up the chimney, no?

Thank you both for the feedback!

 

[Rusty18]

I'll make sure to research the materials and prices before proceeding.

There's no shortage of work to do there! I assume an easier solution would've been to simply have left the front of the fireplace open and run the stove pipe into and up the chimney, no?

Thank you both for the feedback!

That’s how mine is. Previous owner was a tin knocker and made a custom red two piece cover that fits around the pipe to conceal the old fireplace but it it still there and intact…except for a damper of course.

 

[begreen]

I'll make sure to research the materials and prices before proceeding.

There's no shortage of work to do there! I assume an easier solution would've been to simply have left the front of the fireplace open and run the stove pipe into and up the chimney, no?

Thank you both for the feedback!

A sledge and stone chisel can fix that.

 

[MG-70]

Still thinking about the wood stove!

After seeing a "Huntsman" stove like the one below for sale online, I'm starting to think that perhaps a longer "box," or internal chamber is more important than a window, since it means I'd have to cut less wood, possibly have longer burn times, and it would probably be easier for someone to "fix it," should it ever need fixing.

I know nothing about chimney pipes, other than they're expensive and that I should use the double-walled variety.

It'll be running up an existing chimney, but how do I figure out the correct diameter needed?

Can you mix and match "double-walled" chimney pipes, or are the way in which they're assembled proprietary and you generally have to stick to the same make and model?

Generally-speaking, is it safe to buy used chimney pipe and if so, what should I look for when inspecting it? Make sure seams are intact, there are no cracks, no missing rivets or screws, etc.?

Thanks in advance, and I hope everyone is staying warm!

 

[bholler]

Still thinking about the wood stove!

After seeing a "Huntsman" stove like the one below for sale online, I'm starting to think that perhaps a longer "box," or internal chamber is more important than a window, since it means I'd have to cut less wood, possibly have longer burn times, and it would probably be easier for someone to "fix it," should it ever need fixing.

I know nothing about chimney pipes, other than they're expensive and that I should use the double-walled variety.

It'll be running up an existing chimney, but how do I figure out the correct diameter needed?

Can you mix and match "double-walled" chimney pipes, or are the way in which they're assembled proprietary and you generally have to stick to the same make and model?

Generally-speaking, is it safe to buy used chimney pipe and if so, what should I look for when inspecting it? Make sure seams are intact, there are no cracks, no missing rivets or screws, etc.?

Thanks in advance, and I hope everyone is staying warm!


View attachment 325151

You don't need a chimney pipe you need a liner

 

[EbS-P]

Still thinking about the wood stove!

After seeing a "Huntsman" stove like the one below for sale online, I'm starting to think that perhaps a longer "box," or internal chamber is more important than a window, since it means I'd have to cut less wood, possibly have longer burn times, and it would probably be easier for someone to "fix it," should it ever need fixing.

I know nothing about chimney pipes, other than they're expensive and that I should use the double-walled variety.

It'll be running up an existing chimney, but how do I figure out the correct diameter needed?

Can you mix and match "double-walled" chimney pipes, or are the way in which they're assembled proprietary and you generally have to stick to the same make and model?

Generally-speaking, is it safe to buy used chimney pipe and if so, what should I look for when inspecting it? Make sure seams are intact, there are no cracks, no missing rivets or screws, etc.?

Thanks in advance, and I hope everyone is staying warm!


View attachment 325151

Buy once cry once. Personally I’d remove the added brick and install a new insert with insulated liner. I shopped used stoves for over a year. Glad I waited and got a new insert.

a look at Drolet 1800i. Budget about $3k for everything. True north TN20 would also be a good choice if they fit.

 

[MG-70]

Good to know I only need the liner which looks to be a lot cheaper than the pipes! So, it's simple, single-walled, stove pipe and elbow connecting to a liner? Are chimney caps any different when using wood stoves?

I appreciate the suggestions for the new stoves and will look into them if/when the finances allow. My primary use for a wood stove is for entertainment and possibly supplemental heat on the very cold nights. The house is currently set up with electric baseboards and I'm toying with the idea of installing either a heat pump for the main floor (there's currently a working a/c with ducts to all rooms with the exception of the basement, where the fireplace is located), or multiple mini-splits for heating and cooling rooms on the main floor. I'm even ok with just ceiling fans, but the wife, being a wife, complains when it gets a little warmer. I'm moving from a townhouse to a detached with the front facing the East and rear facing the West so there should be good crosswind for keeping the house cool.

The remodel is going to be expensive, I'm not sure I'll have $3K+ to spend on a wood stove that may or may not be used all that much any time soon. I've seen a number of older wood stoves such as the Huntsman, Alaskas, Kodiaks, Jotuls, Fishers, Upland, Englander, etc. for sale locally online for anywhere between $250-$500, and some even for free (but unfortunately I don't have a truck or anyone that can help me fast enough before they're gone).

ETA. I could be wrong, but from my research it seems an insert is less effective at spreading heat to the rest of the house than a free-standing stove. Given that the fireplace, where the liner will run, sits underneath the two main bedrooms, I figured a wood stove 2'-3' in front of the fireplace would be ideal for providing supplemental heat to the three bedrooms in the main floor. I don't have any set plans for the basement and there's more than enough room for a stove.

Thanks for the feedback and a safe week for all!