Newbie planning new stove installation - does this seem reasonable?

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New Member
Oct 15, 2023
Hello from Texas. Long time lurker, first time poster. I'm planning to replace a Heatilator Mark 23 factory fireplace in my 1970s single story home and would appreciate a review of my plans to see if they look reasonable before I start.

First things first. I have a good supply of 2 and 3 year old pecan and oak which is split and stacked under cover.

Here's the existing fireplace view from inside and on the roof. The fireplace does work, but provides precious little heat.

I plan to remove the whole thing - hearth, fireplace and chimney and replace it with a modern wood stove. The desired result is to use the stove for supplemental heat and enjoyment of a fire. The 2,200 sq ft house has heat pumps, but they are older and don't perform so well when it's much below freezing. And, we do lose power periodically. I've got an endless supply of wood on site and enjoy cutting and splitting.

I am looking at a Vogelzang VG2520E-BP which I can get at NorthernTool for $900. Product manual is here. In addition to the stove, I think I need the Duravent UP kit (6DP-KTUP), a Duravent adapter (6DVL-AD), Duravent DVL telescoping connector (6DVL-68TA), and 3 or 4 pieces of Duravent chimney (6DP-24SS).

I'm planning to build a hearth with 3/4 plywood covered by 5 layers of 1/2" Durock with tile on top. Looks like each layer of Durock is 0.39 R value and the stove manual calls for an R of 1.4. For the rear wall, I am planning to do a single layer of 1/2" Durock covered with tile. The hearth footprint will be a little bigger than the existing one. I think I can meet the rear clearance and have a straight shot up without any elbows.

Any help or input is much appreciated!
The longest time will be the demo and installation of the new class A chimney. Depending upon access, that can be easy or harder. Personally, I would space the walls per required clearance to combustibles and rock and tile. Most modern stoves don't have an R value for the hearth, but it must be non combustible. I would not layer durock like that, but up to you. My hearth barely gets warm.

If you're looking to supplement your heat in your home, I would go with the best stove possible; otherwise, all you'll be doing is burning wood really quickly and not producing very much heat. I would take a look around and see if you can find yourself a Jotul stove. Though they are very hard to come by, they are one of the most efficient stoves out there. I haven't heard of the brand Vogelzang yet. I run a Jotul F600 in my home, and it's amazing! It will slow burn all night long and keep the house nice and toasty until the morning. By then, it still has coals left to throw in another log and fire it right back up.

As for the vent pipe, you can do a single wall up to the ceiling before the support box, but if there was a chimney fire, you'd definitely want double wall with a stainless steel inner liner. Link Below:

I have had friends that have had chimney fires due to high winds at times, and they were super grateful for the double wall pipe with the stainless steel inner liner. One friend said the pipe got so hot (2000 degrees) that it literally singed all the paint off the double-walled pipe, but luckily nothing started on fire.

As for the pipe after the ceiling support box, it's best to use triple-wall stainless steel pipe. I am not sure what your state code requires, but here in Utah, it has to be a triple wall. The triple wall is also the best because, in reality, the flue pipe should be hot all the way up to the chimney cap. You won't feel the heat as much on the outer wall of the pipe, but the inner wall should be at the same temperature as the stoveior close. Link below:

From the looks of your roof and where your pipe will be coming out, The 11" ceiling support box should do. Link below:

I will post links to a few other items you may need or that might be of help. I guess it all depends on what size pipe you're using.

Roof Accessories:

Adapters and Trim:

Chimney Cap:

BTW, everything that I have posted or linked here is DuraVent (DuraTech). DuraVent makes several different brands; DuraVent (DuraPlus) would be the lower-end line of stuff. In my eyes, the only stuff I would use is DuraVent (DuraTech). Their ceiling support box, piping, etc. are much thicker and stronger. I hope this helps a bit.
👍👍 You will heat much more efficiently. What kind of square footage are you heating? Keep us updated with the process
and have a blessed day!!
Demo day!

Thank you to folks who replied to the OP. Home is single level 2,200 sq ft but the bedrooms are all one size, so effectively I'm only looking at heating about half of that. Lots of ceiling fans.

Pictures and a couple questions.

For the 11" ceiling support box Jotul_Bird mentioned, I'm going to have to cut that down a lot. You can see that there's a very short distance between the inside ceiling and the roof. Is that OK?

The weight of the old chimney rested on the fireplace. Am I correct in understanding that weight of the class A chimney is supported by the ceiling support box? If so, I think I need to frame up around the ceiling joists so that the support box is nailed in securely on all four sides.

The old chimney was 8" and a grand total of 6 feet. I couldn't believe it. Probably explains why the draft was so poor. In any case, the stove manual says to have a minimum of 12' from the stove collar. That's going to be at least 7' of class A above the roof. Is that OK? I know I'll need at least 1 roof support bracket.

And lastly... what would you recommend I do with the electrical boxes? OK to put them in wall behind the stove or should I just delete them?

Looking good! I’ll try not to miss any questions!

I’m not sure what was recommended, but if installed to the manufacturer’s instructions you should be good! The ceiling support box holds the weight of the chimney. When I put mine in, I framed out the opening with 2x4s to size and then mounted the ceiling support box. There were surprisingly few fasteners holding it up. The flashing helps to hold the Class A vertical, and then the bracing further helps that. 7 feet is fine. On some northern steep pitched roofs, you get much more than that.

I’d put the boxes in the wall. You can never have enough outlets.