I have a weekend/occasional use cabin that has a Franklin (cast iron, 2 bi-fold doors) type stove installed. I really don't like the stove and would like to replace it. I stopped by my local stove store and was quoted about $4,000 - $6,000 as an installed price for a new stove. Considering that the stove is only used about 30-40 hours per year I don't want to spend that kind of money. My thought was to buy a used stove on craigslist and install it. Is that realistic? I'm sure the old one was installed to "code" in 1980 but I'm sure the stack is 8" single wall. The roof penetration and flashing look good - but I'm an amateur.
Newbie questions (sorry)
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You probably can do a lot better yourself if you have basic mechanical skills and follow directions well. There are good stoves on the market for around $1000. How tall is the flue system from the Franklin stovetop to the chimney cap? Is there additional heating in the cabin? How many sq ft is it?
If the chimney is single wall it is not to code. Post some pics we can help atleast give you an idea if there is anything to work with or if you need to start over
And no need to apologize. Feel free to ask questions. That's why we're here.
One thing to note, dry, fully seasoned wood is a must for a good experience with a modern stove.
One thing to note, dry, fully seasoned wood is a must for a good experience with a modern stove.
Thanks for the replies. I'm not there now but I'll post some pics later this week. From the top of the Franklin to the chimney cap is about 15'. It's a straight vertical stack. As far as the sq.ft. goes I'll do some measuring. I'd planned on doing the work myself but am concerned about moving the stoves - unless they can be disassembled.
Moving a stove is not too hard if it has wheels on it. My son and I have moved several stoves by just putting it on a square of plywood for the feet to rest on, then ratchet strapping it to a good appliance dolly. Small distance moves can be done by putting rollers under the plywood, like 1/2" pipe or rod.
Poindexter
Minister of Fire
I have nothing to add to what begreen has already said. He knows his stuff.
burning VC
Member
I use an automotive floor jack(like for your car) under my Fisher Grandpa Bear.
It's easy after you find the correct balance point underneath, you just lift it an inch or two and drag it by the jackhandle.
If it will lift/move a car, it should move most any stove.
(as long as you dont lose the balance, and tip/drop it)
.02
It's easy after you find the correct balance point underneath, you just lift it an inch or two and drag it by the jackhandle.
If it will lift/move a car, it should move most any stove.
(as long as you dont lose the balance, and tip/drop it)
.02
If I remember correctly, the Franklins were cast iron. You can take them out in manageable pieces. Putting the new one in us trickier, but taking off fire bricks and doors will make it light enough that beer,pizza, and friends can get it in. A dolly will help too.
I'm not sure what they were selling, but this could be a DIY install for under $2000.
That stove brings back memories. We had one in the living room from 71 to 85. It ate wood like crazy. Replaced baffle in it several times.
It's better to use the pieces as boat anchors in my opinion.
I'll let the trade professionals address the stove pipe and chimney details.
For occasional use you can't do much better than a Vogelzang.
I have an older version of this stove and once you figure out the settings on the secondary burn, it's really mesmerizing to watch the blue flames dance.
I'm sure you will get plenty of opinions here on how to spend your money.
Thanks for the replies. I've found a number of used stoves locally in the $500.00 range. My main problem is moving them. Most of them are cast iron and probably weigh 500 lbs. I need to find someone who does this professionally. I looked at a nice US made CI stove today but I don't have a truck or any way to get it into or out of the truck. (Maybe I could rent an engine hoist) Then it has to go down 50' of gravel walkway and up 3 steps. If new stoves come in pieces that would make it easier. I've moved washers, dryers, freezers and fridges but nothing as heavy as these stoves.
FWIW: I looked at the existing electric furnace today and it is rated at 59,000 BTU/hr. So I guess that gives me a reference point for a wood stove.
FWIW: I looked at the existing electric furnace today and it is rated at 59,000 BTU/hr. So I guess that gives me a reference point for a wood stove.
There are a lot of old stoves on the market that are overpriced boat anchors. Be careful what you buy or it won't be a lot better than the Franklin. Ask here if you think you have found a good one.
Our stove is a heavyweight, almost 600# and I am no spring chicken. I made a ramp out of a couple 2x10 planks and slid the stove down. Once on the ground, I positioned my appliance dolly (heavy duty handcart) under the palette, then ratchet-strapped it to the dolly. Once it has wheels on it it was easy to move across the lawn, then gravel pathway. With 2 helpers, getting it up a couple steps, then into the house and onto the hearth was pretty easy.
Our stove is a heavyweight, almost 600# and I am no spring chicken. I made a ramp out of a couple 2x10 planks and slid the stove down. Once on the ground, I positioned my appliance dolly (heavy duty handcart) under the palette, then ratchet-strapped it to the dolly. Once it has wheels on it it was easy to move across the lawn, then gravel pathway. With 2 helpers, getting it up a couple steps, then into the house and onto the hearth was pretty easy.
Thanks, the one I looked at yesterday was a Rohn CI stove made in IL. Side loader with blower and thermostatically controlled damper. There are also a lot of Blaze Kings around but most of them don't have any glass viewing ports/sides so provide little ambience.
If the stove will be a old, pre-EPA model then it would be best to start a new thread in the Classics forum here:
Classic Wood Stove Forums (prior to approx. 1993)
This forum is for discussion of older stoves - built during the stove boom of the first oil shocks up until the EPA regs started to take hold. Brands include Fisher, All Nighter, Timberline and many models of current makers like Vermont Castings, Jotul, etc.
www.hearth.com
But it would be a shame to go to all that effort when a good new stove can be had for a few hundred more. They might even deliver it for you.
Englander 2,000 sq. ft. EPA Certified Wood-Burning Stove 15-W03 - The Home Depot
Sturdy and strong, but with a touch of ambiance, our 2,000 sq. ft. wood stove covers all the bases. The 2.45 cu. ft. firebox with XBT Technology holds logs up to 18 in. L and can burn through the night
www.homedepot.com
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Thanks,
I may move over to the classic forum, but please tell me about the chimney issue mentioned above.
I may move over to the classic forum, but please tell me about the chimney issue mentioned above.
it looks like you have an 8" chimney. Most stoves are made with a 6" collar. If you buy a stove with the wrong size collar, you'll need to switch the chimney.
Now, maybe my eyes are fooling me and you have a 6" chimney. In which case I'd look for a stove made for a 6" chimney.
Now, maybe my eyes are fooling me and you have a 6" chimney. In which case I'd look for a stove made for a 6" chimney.
It would be ok to hook up a modern, 6" flue stove to the 8" chimney, though I would replace the connector stovepipe with 6".
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