Newbie stove loading question

[DutchOven1911]

Hello all,

I'd appreciate some help on this topic and I apologize if it's been asked before, but I see all kinds of posts about people packing the stove full and am kind of confused or maybe just paranoid. Does more wood mean a hotter stove? I'm asking because when I load just 4 or 5 pieces into my stove it runs at about 600-700 according to my probe thermometer. The problem is I have to reload the darn thing so often. I have a Napoleon 1100c and am already limited as to how much I can put into the stove as it is. Looking back I should have opted for the larger 1400 model because it takes nothing to fill this little fire box. I went with the installer suggestion, but I don't think they took into account my old drafty house. With all that aside, If I put more wood into my stove and control the air down like I normally do, will it still maintain the same temperature or will it run hotter? I haven't gotten the new stove jitters totally out of my system yet as I've only been burning for a couple years now. My gf thinks I'm a nut because I will sit there staring at the stove to try and see when the secondaries fire and try to figure when is the best time to close the air down. I have 1yr+ seasoned ash, maple and cherry, live a fairly windy area (open field) so I'm always a bit nervous about controlling the air. Any and all feedback is appreciated. Thanks folks.

 

[NickW]

It depends... each stove and flue setup is a little different. How "open" is the air when "cruising"?

For my nc30 and my particular flue, a full load on a breezy night cruises at 1/8 open. On a calm night at 1/4 open. Controlability is dependent on how big or small the splits are and how good I was at shutting the air down. Small and medium splits on a full load are harder for me to control. More big splits take longer to get it all properly charred to keep it going, but result in more control and longer burn times. If the gates of hell are opening, shutting the air all the way gets it back under control. In emergency situations the door can be opened sending a rush of cool air up the flue.

This year my wood is better seasoned which also gives better control. Less well seasoned wood can get to cruising temperature then snuff out as the air is shut down or will "take off" later when all the moisture is boiled out.

 

[nortcan]

I think that it' harder to controll the burn rate if adding wood on a good and hot burning fire. If waiting for a good layer of hot coals then add the load it's easier to controll the fire. It works for my Hearthstone.

 

[begreen]

The flue temp is a more accurate guide for when to turn down the air, especially for cold starts. Is that single or double wall stove pipe?

 

[DutchOven1911]

It's a double wall pipe. I usually start turning it down once the wood can maintain flames without beinf choked out. Loading it up full just makes me nervous with how the temp is with just 4 pieces in there

 

[begreen]

It's a double wall pipe. I usually start turning it down once the wood can maintain flames without beinf choked out. Loading it up full just makes me nervous with how the temp is with just 4 pieces in there

Great, I thought that looked like double-wall with a probe thermometer. It sounds like you are doing ok. If you load the stove with thicker splits, packed tightly using thinner splits to fill the gaps, then the fire will burn slower. Start turning down the air by the flue temp. I don't know precisely how your stove will behave, but with our stove that is when the flue temp is in the 500-600º range, but with a digital probe that responds much more quickly than an analog probe.

 

[DutchOven1911]

Ok I'll give it a try when I'm home all day on a weekend to see how it reacts.