Newbie with Jotul F3 CB.

[Lehobbit]

Hello everyone! I join this forum from deepest rural France. We are living in the Massif Central in an old granite cottage and have recently bought a secondhand Jotul F3 R CB to keep us cozy through the winter months, which can be very cold and snowy here.

The Jotul has been well looked after and it is very clean. It cost us €500 and came with the original instructions, flue pipe and even the touch up paint for the Ivory enamel finish.

We have replaced the rope seal on the door and also had the top off and reseated it as it wasn't sat quite right as it had got knocked when lifting it into our van.

There is a picture of the stove in action as my profile picture.

We have a good supply of 3 year seasoned wood from the local area; it is a mix of Oak, Silver Birch and Beech. We also have a stove top thermometer. The stove easily gets up to an indicated 500 fahrenheit within about 1/2 hour of lighting.

I have a few questions:-

1.) The primary air slider does not go all the way to the left? It stops about 1/2 inch from the left? Is this normal? In the manual that came with the stove there is a photo of the primary air slide and it is fully over to the left

To me it looks as though even when the air is fully closed down that the fire is burning quite quickly?

2.) As I said we have replaced the rope on the door seal, could it be air is getting in around the ash pan door? Should I replace this gasket too and if so what size?

3.) On the rear of the stove where the plate is for the secondary burn air intake, I removed the plate to inspect and the intake does not have a partial blanking piece, it is fully open? Refitted plate.

The stove got very hot tonight with a stove top temperature of 670 degrees F. This was with the air fully closed. It burnt through two large splits of beech in one hour?

Now it has dropped back down to around 470 degrees F with just one log on a 2" bed of coals.

I just want to use the wood as efficiently as possible as we are paying €180 for a cord (4m3)

Just wanted some friendly advice from across the pond? Any Jotul F3 experts on here?

 

[begreen]

Our F3CB liked to burn in the 600-650F range with good dry wood. The fire will burn vigorously during the secondary combustion phase. Thicker wood pieces can help slow down the fire a bit.

You should remove the ash pan and see if there is caked up ash building up there. Too much buildup can prevent the ash pan door from closing tightly. If the gasket on this door is leaking or not sealing well it should be replaced. Also, make sure the little start up air vent is closed. This is on the bottom of the oval emblem on the door.

 

[Allagash350]

I can’t answer all of your questions but my dad has a f3cb and I have used it quite a bit.

I think you should be able to shut the air all the way to the left. Are you also using the air control on the top right of the stove? I only ask because in your picture it looks like the primary air is shut down, but it seems the other air control is still fully open.

That may be affecting your temps and burn times if not.

Never hurts to change gaskets especially on a used stove. You don’t know if the previous owner ever replaced them, or if they did if they used the right size etc. it’s pretty cheap to do and doesn’t take very long. I replaced all the gaskets in my stove when I got it used simply for the piece of mind. I think if the ash door gasket was compromised you would get hotter than 670. That will really crank the fire.

Not sure about the plate.

And if your wood is season three years it may just be really dry and burning quickly. This is a smaller stove that requires smaller pieces of wood. I think we could get like a 4 hour burn time usually with red oak chunks and the air down all the way.

Good luck!

 

[Lehobbit]

Hello Guys. Thank you very much for your replies. I always close the start up vent under the oval on the door once the stove top hits 400 F. The ash door appears to be closing fully, but I will replace the rope gasket for peace of mind. Any idea what size rope?

The fire seems to be a bit up and down. If I have a nice bed of hot coals I open up the primary air slider fully for about ten minutes and then shut it back down. This gives good heat in the range of 500 to 600 F stove top temperature. The thing is the primary air slider will not go right over to the very left? Anyone else got this issue? How long should say four big splits (firebox full) last from loading down to coals?

 

[glennm]

Hi
I have the same stove and my air control lever does not go all the way to the left. It is a great small stove! I love ours.

 

[begreen]

How long should say four big splits (firebox full) last from loading down to coals?

It depends on the wood species, outside temps and how far one lets the coal bed burn down to (or how cool the stove top is). We used to get a maximum 6 hrs with a more likely winter average of 3-4 hrs when burning lower btu hardwoods and some softwoods.

 

[Lehobbit]

It depends on the wood species, outside temps and how far one lets the 8coal bed burn down to (or how cool the stove top is). We used to get a maximum 6 hrs with a more likely winter average of 3-4 hrs when burning lower btu hardwoods and some softwoods.

Hello there. We are getting nowhere near these times. To me the draw on this fire seems amazing. If I put enough big splits to fill the firebox on a bed of red coals then with the primary air fully down (as far as it will go to the left which is not fully), then we would be lucky to get two hours. I think my Jotul is burning too quick? We have good well seasoned oak, birch and beech splits and I always load a mix. If the primary air slider is not designed to go right to the left then why does it show a photo of the primary air slide in the Jotul manual with it right over to the left?

I just want to be sure it is working correctly and not burning too fast and we can get through three baskets of wood (about 10 big splits 18" long in each basket load) from around 8.30am through till 11.00pm. Seems excessive to me for a small stove?

Also I am definately going to change the rope seal on the ash box door. Any idea of the size I need?

Cheers LeHobbit

 

[Lehobbit]

Hi
I have the same stove and my air control lever does not go all the way to the left. It is a great small stove! I love ours.

Yes I agree it's a fantastic little stove and really pumps out the heat. How far short does your primary air lever stop short of going fully to the left? I am worried that ours is burning too fast, as we are really hammering through the wood. Seems strange that the photo in the Jotul manual shows the slider fully over to the left? I did read that there can be a burr on the metal that stops a complete closure. I don't think these stoves can be shut completely down as don't they draw air in at the rear though the secondary burn air intake?

 

[begreen]

True of modern EPA stoves. The air can not be shut off completely. They always admit a little air to keep the glass clean and avoid smoldering. The secondary air on the F3CB and most EPA non-cats is unregulated. Have you verified that the start up air control is closed?

 

[Lehobbit]

True of modern EPA stoves. The air can not be shut off completely. They always admit a little air to keep the glass clean and avoid smoldering. The secondary air on the F3CB and most EPA non-cats is unregulated. Have you verified that the start up air control is closed?

Yes I always close the start up air vent under the oval once the stovetop reaches an indicated 400 f. I wonder if anyone can explain why the primary air slider does not go all the way to the left? I read on another thread that there can be a burr on the slider which prevents full closure? Seems strange that the manual has a photo of the slider in fully closed position. Did Jotul modify some later stoves? Ours is called an F3 R CB. Not sure what the R designates? Can anyone tell me the size of rope needed for the ashpan housing door?

 

[begreen]

Not sure, but if this is gasket #77 then it looks like a low density, round 1/4" gasket about 29" long. Verify this.
(#77 - LD 250-2 Ø6.4x730)

In the US manual it looks like the air damper control is over about 1/2" as described.


The stove's firebox is small. Going through a load in 2-3 hrs does not seem too unusual. Is the stove freestanding? If it is then one option would be to install a stove pipe damper a foot above the stove in the stove pipe. That can be used to reduce draft once the stove is burning well.

 

[Lehobbit]

Not sure, but if this is gasket #77 then it looks like a low density, round 1/4" gasket about 29" long. Verify this.
(#77 - LD 250-2 Ø6.4x730)

In the US manual it looks like the air damper control is over about 1/2" as described.
View attachment 218085

The stove's firebox is small. Going through a load in 2-3 hrs does not seem too unusual. Is the stove freestanding? If it is then one option would be to install a stove pipe damper a foot above the stove in the stove pipe. That can be used to reduce draft once the stove is burning well.
View attachment 218086

Yes that looks like the right size. 6.4mm x 730mm long.

Interesting that the US manual shows the primary air slider at about 1/2 inch from the left side. Maybe they modified the F3 at a later date. The manual that came with our F3 R CB definitely shows the slider fully over to the left, but maybe they used an old photo in the manual?

Regarding the flue damper, we are renting our place whilst we search for a house to buy with land in the Massif Central. The old woodburner in the property was crap and totally inefficient and was also condemned. The landlord let us off four months rent if we bought another stove and got it professionally installed. We bought the Jotul secondhand and got a professional to install it. We won' be staying at the house far into the spring so don't want to spend out any more on the install. We will take the Jotul with us and tell the landlord to keep the deposit!!

 

[Manly]

We have been heating with a Jotul 3CB since I installed it new about 22 years ago. Our stove is a rear connection pipe tee that goes straight up and out through the ceiling and attic. With this particular stove we have excellent air/draft control. No need for a stove pipe damper as the air controls on the stove can bring it down to air tight. I have read on various discussion boards that the new Jotul 3 does not allow you to shut the air down completely, due to EPA regulations. Those posting these comments have complained about run-away fires with very dry wood. Others have complained about poor material and casting quality with the newer stoves. We burn about 3 cord every year and have not had to replace a thing beyond door and glass gaskets. Burn plates and baffle are solid with no cracks or wear. I have also read that the top air damper on the new stoves can be modified to allow it to fully close like the older stoves. I think they had to take the stove top off and grind off a tab stop. We heat the majority of our ranch with the Jotul and have been extremely happy with it. The small firebox requires frequent loading, but it will sustain an overnight burn with sufficient coals to start things up in the morning. Good luck with your #3.

 

[Lehobbit]

We have been heating with a Jotul 3CB since I installed it new about 22 years ago. Our stove is a rear connection pipe tee that goes straight up and out through the ceiling and attic. With this particular stove we have excellent air/draft control. No need for a stove pipe damper as the air controls on the stove can bring it down to air tight. I have read on various discussion boards that the new Jotul 3 does not allow you to shut the air down completely, due to EPA regulations. Those posting these comments have complained about run-away fires with very dry wood. Others have complained about poor material and casting quality with the newer stoves. We burn about 3 cord every year and have not had to replace a thing beyond door and glass gaskets. Burn plates and baffle are solid with no cracks or wear. I have also read that the top air damper on the new stoves can be modified to allow it to fully close like the older stoves. I think they had to take the stove top off and grind off a tab stop. We heat the majority of our ranch with the Jotul and have been extremely happy with it. The small firebox requires frequent loading, but it will sustain an overnight burn with sufficient coals to start things up in the morning. Good luck with your #3.

Hi Manly. Interesting comments. I think we have experienced some fairly fierce fires. The other night the stove top temperature was showing nearly 700 degrees F with the air fully closed!! We have a rear connection on ours with a T piece. I think Ivory enamel ones can only have rear entry flue. Our stove is in very good condition. I think I will replace the ash door rope seal and maybe take the top off and have a look at the slider to see if we can modify it. We have a very tall lined chimney so the draw is fierce!

 

[Lehobbit]

Been getting to know our Jotul a bit more as we wind our way through this wet, cool and damp winter here in the Massif Central in France. I have noticed that the stove top temperatures can be a bit all over the place? I cannot seem to get consistent temperatures? Today is an example. Had the stove going for a few hours and have a really nice hot burn with indicated stove top temperature of 510 degrees fahrenheit. The stove is nicely heating the space and banging out lots of heat. Yesterday we had the stove on all day and struggled to get the stove top much above 400 degrees? This stove really seems to hit the sweet spot at 500 degrees stove top temperature with very apparent secondary flames. Is this merely down to the wood we are using. It is a fairly mixed batch but mainly French Oak, Beech and Birch. Supposedly three year seasoned? Any thoughts ?

 

[RandyBoBandy]

A flue damper is cheap and takes about 2 minutes to install. It would be well worth it when you compare it to the amount of wood you are putting into the stove currently

 

[begreen]

Been getting to know our Jotul a bit more as we wind our way through this wet, cool and damp winter here in the Massif Central in France. I have noticed that the stove top temperatures can be a bit all over the place? I cannot seem to get consistent temperatures? Today is an example. Had the stove going for a few hours and have a really nice hot burn with indicated stove top temperature of 510 degrees fahrenheit. The stove is nicely heating the space and banging out lots of heat. Yesterday we had the stove on all day and struggled to get the stove top much above 400 degrees? This stove really seems to hit the sweet spot at 500 degrees stove top temperature with very apparent secondary flames. Is this merely down to the wood we are using. It is a fairly mixed batch but mainly French Oak, Beech and Birch. Supposedly three year seasoned? Any thoughts ?

It can be the wood. Sometimes some pieces have been more exposed to rain or at low point where water sat on its surface for a long time. It can also be the difference in loading, a tighter packed load will fire off slower. It can be the weather and outside temp. Draft will be weaker with milder weather. And it can be the operation and timing of closing down the air supply.