Hey all….I’ve received some great help from this forum and I am finally ready to install my first wood stove. I’d like to do this myself so I want to make sure I have everything dialed in. I apologize in advance for the length of this post, but I wanted to provide details so experienced eyes & brains can guide me …so I don’t screw up!
First off, I’m installing my stove in a new barn-type building I had constructed in my back yard (16’ x 24’) with an open “vaulted” ceiling (with a barn-shaped gambrel roof) and I’m placing the stove at one end of the building in the center of the end wall so that the pipe can run straight up, dead center, and exit at the very apex of the roof. I was hoping to not use any angled stove pipe at all, just straight up to the roof.
My primary concern is regarding clearance since each rafter has a collar tie running horizontal 24” down from the roof. The rafters are 22 ¼ “apart on center and so I need to squeeze out every inch of clearance possible when placing the stove to avoid having the pipe too close to the tie (see attached pic of rafters). For this reason, the stove I’ve chosen is a Napoleon 1100 since that model requires just 6” of clearance from the wall, if I use double-wall stove pipe. I dropped a plumb line down to where my stove will sit and drew a circle on the roof sheeting where my chimney would exit (see other pic). I could then see that clearance past the collar tie is too tight even for double-wall pipe, so I thought maybe I could extend the chimney further into the building in order to address this, since the chimney requires only 2” of clearance from that collar tie. Of course I’m thinking this also means I'd need an extra long ceiling box (32” long?) to extend down past the collar tie by 8” or so, in order to provide proper clearance for where the double-wall pipe connects. Does all of this make sense so far, or am I already off base?
If all sounds OK, I have some related questions:
1 How exactly does the double-wall pipe connect to the chimney? Does it attach directly, inside the ceiling box? ..or does it connect to the base of the ceiling box instead. And if the latter, how then does the chimney connect to the stove pipe? I only ask since if the DW pipe extends into the ceiling box at all, then this could affect my clearance to the collar tie and therefore I might need an even longer ceiling box.
2 And what of that long ceiling box? Do they even make them at 32”…or would I buy a 36” box and just cut it with tin snips? And are they even thin enough to cut with tin snips?
3 Finally…the pitch of my roof at the very apex is fairly shallow (6/12 pitch). I’ve seen a couple of flashings made for the apex of a roof, but they appear to be designed for a roof with a steeper pitch than mine. Does anyone know if there are any adjustable flashings that might work for my shallow-pitched roof?
Sorry…lots of info and questions here. THANKS for any and all info!
First off, I’m installing my stove in a new barn-type building I had constructed in my back yard (16’ x 24’) with an open “vaulted” ceiling (with a barn-shaped gambrel roof) and I’m placing the stove at one end of the building in the center of the end wall so that the pipe can run straight up, dead center, and exit at the very apex of the roof. I was hoping to not use any angled stove pipe at all, just straight up to the roof.
My primary concern is regarding clearance since each rafter has a collar tie running horizontal 24” down from the roof. The rafters are 22 ¼ “apart on center and so I need to squeeze out every inch of clearance possible when placing the stove to avoid having the pipe too close to the tie (see attached pic of rafters). For this reason, the stove I’ve chosen is a Napoleon 1100 since that model requires just 6” of clearance from the wall, if I use double-wall stove pipe. I dropped a plumb line down to where my stove will sit and drew a circle on the roof sheeting where my chimney would exit (see other pic). I could then see that clearance past the collar tie is too tight even for double-wall pipe, so I thought maybe I could extend the chimney further into the building in order to address this, since the chimney requires only 2” of clearance from that collar tie. Of course I’m thinking this also means I'd need an extra long ceiling box (32” long?) to extend down past the collar tie by 8” or so, in order to provide proper clearance for where the double-wall pipe connects. Does all of this make sense so far, or am I already off base?
If all sounds OK, I have some related questions:
1 How exactly does the double-wall pipe connect to the chimney? Does it attach directly, inside the ceiling box? ..or does it connect to the base of the ceiling box instead. And if the latter, how then does the chimney connect to the stove pipe? I only ask since if the DW pipe extends into the ceiling box at all, then this could affect my clearance to the collar tie and therefore I might need an even longer ceiling box.
2 And what of that long ceiling box? Do they even make them at 32”…or would I buy a 36” box and just cut it with tin snips? And are they even thin enough to cut with tin snips?
3 Finally…the pitch of my roof at the very apex is fairly shallow (6/12 pitch). I’ve seen a couple of flashings made for the apex of a roof, but they appear to be designed for a roof with a steeper pitch than mine. Does anyone know if there are any adjustable flashings that might work for my shallow-pitched roof?
Sorry…lots of info and questions here. THANKS for any and all info!
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