NorthStar, Quadrafire and or Constitution Chimney question

[woolleyr]

I need to disassemble a section of ss chimney pipe. Its the snap together kind, 8" within a 10" double walled air cooled.

Wife wants to move the fireplace so that it is flush with interior wall, it is currently set back 2" because in hind site neither the installer or myself caught the fact that you need special assembly instructions for 2x6 walls and an offset...they don't tell you that in the manual nor do they include those instructions... He says he is not sure he can do it. I want to find out if it can be done and then tell him or get another installer who is more experienced

This has been a real pain in the rear end....the installation instructions are not clear from what I can see so I am not faulting the installer as I am not sure he had ever done one of these particular units before. I suspect that the pipes can be pulled apart but it'll ruin the locking tabs on the pipe....can't see why it couldn't be reassembled and screwed together.

Would it be better to cut the first section of pipe off and then cutoff the remaining pieces of that section slowly to not damage the tabs on the fireplace top and the next section of pipe above?

Any ideas out there?

 

[jtp10181]

It can be taken apart and re-used, but it you have to be careful. That SL300 pipe is not meant to come apart once you take put it together. Also the MFG recommends securing each section with 3 short sheet metal screws in the first place so using screws to put it back together is fine. Only screws in the outer section though, you must not penetrate the inner pipe.

We install these units every week and almost everyone builds with 2x6 framing up here so I'm not sure what the problem is. I'm not really sure what exactly happened to cause the dilemma but I don't think it matters much. If the unit is set back 2" into wood framing that is not to spec in the manual if I remember correctly. You MUST have the dealer come back and repair it. I would not attempt to do this yourself. If you change something and then the house starts on fire later you are on your own.

That unit should have come with some white non-combustible board that would be attached around it to keep drywall and other combustibles away from the opening. The manual shows this as a "non-combustible zone" around the fireplace.

If you have any other questions about the install of this unit I can remember most of the manual from my head, or examine it and decipher it if needed.

 

[woolleyr]

We rechecked our dimensions and figured we were off after he began to assemble...you said you had 2x6 and no problems with a Heat n Glo Northstar?

Let me explain what I got and maybe you can comment on how you'd handle this

With the drywall removed on the inside of the house back to the appropriate clearance. I have 5 1/2 inches of stud and 1/2" osb sheathing for a total of 6".

Now if my literature is correct the diameter of the outerwall stove pipe is 10 1/2" thus the radius is 5 1/4".

The total distance from the centerline of the chimney to the front of the fireplace is 11 1/8".

Now comes the math...if I subtract the 5 1/4 radius of the pipe from the 11 1/8 total distance to front of fireplace I get 5 7/8" and then subtract the 2" for the airspace I get 3 7/8". But the thickness of the wall is 6". So essentially I am 2 1/8" short thus the placement of the unit 2 1/8" back into the opening.

In talking with the guy who installed it he says he has done the quadrafire 7100 which is almost the same unit though when I look at the literature its a bit bigger. The quad though has its chimney centerline at 13 3/16" which is just enough for 2x6 framing, I suspect this is where the foul up occurred...anyway thats my quandry.

Any ideas to fix this without tearing the pipe apart?

 

[jtp10181]

You emailed this to me as well... since you posted it here is what I said in the email
----
It seems you are correct.

This is what probably happens around here: Either the salespeople are aware of the issue and tell the builders to use 2x4 framing above the unit, or the installers are fixing the problem. I think more often the installers are using their sawzalls to fix it. The installers will often have to notch out 2x6 framing to allow for proper vent clearances on any fireplace. Normally the header over the fireplace is not load bearing. If there is a stud right in the middle they will knock it out and add two on either side of the vent to meet clearances. We would never leave a unit recessed 2" into the wood framing, as you can see in the manual this is a fire hazard. If we did have to leave it like this we would lock the unit out so no one could use it until the issue was corrected.

 

[woolleyr]

That is correct..as a matter of fact that was the installers first suggestion but I questioned his cutting back on the framing...

A the moment the unit is not installed completely, the chimney stops a few sections up when I asked him about clearances, thus it would be impossible to burn. Of course he left the job and can't get back till later this week...thus I am trying to get my ducks in a row before he comes to ensure he does it right. At least tomorrow will be in the 60s here tomorrow so a little outdoor air getting in is no big deal.

The fireplace is in the gable end of the house so its likely the load bearing is minimal. Just was wondering about the use of the offset and whether or not the pipes can be taken apart and the offset inserted which will cure my problem or if he tries to get away with cutting the framing and then hoping there is enough play in the pipe to tilt out slightly until the 2" clearance is made and then straight up...

 

[jtp10181]

If there is a tall wall all the way up we usually put an offset right on top of the unit to get away from it and centered in the chase, then go straight up from there. Then you only have to cut out the framing right at the bottom. It seems the builder always strategically puts a roof truss in the way also, so the offset can get us around that as well.

 

[73blazer]

Yeah, I got the same problem here. I wish I would have seen this post before I bought. My problem is my header is load bearing and cannot be modified in any way.

I have 48" of total clearance to the floor (the fireplace is 43 7/8 to top of standoffs), so I might be able to fit something in, an offset perhaps as the first piece of chimney. The manual doesn't say it's not allowed to have an offset as first piece of chimney, but I'm note sure I like that idea. My other idea is to firebrick the bottom of the header and shove the stove 2" back further into the chase, not sure if I like that either though.

I just can't believe someone would market something like this and have it not be able to be installed in a 2x6wall without 'notching' the header.

I'm calling the dealer/HeatnGlo tomorrow to get an official answer, because the manual doesn't say anything about 2x6 walls, good or bad, and notching the header is not an option in my case.