Not all Class A piping is legal for wood burning

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CrappieKeith

New Member
Hearth Supporter
Feb 17, 2009
265
Northern Mn.
It was found through UL testing that the standard 1,700 degree Class A chimney failed during a chimney fire. The standard Class A metal chimney is the standard for oil furnaces ,not wood furnaces.
The 1700 degree insulation is not designed to withstand the possible 2,200 degrees found in chimney wall temperatures. Upon failure of the insulation, the temperatures of the outside wall of the chimney would far surpass the required clearances to combustibles. If a second chimney fire occurred before the chimney is replaced ,the possibility of a house fire is a strong possibilty,possibly causing bodily harm or death to the occupants inside the home.


NFPA 211 Standard for Chimneys,Fireplaces,Vents and Solid Fuel-Burning Appliances

2006 Edition

Annex A Explanatory Material

A.3.3.32.1.3 Type HT Factory-Built,Residential-Type and or Building Heating Appliance Type Chimney.

Chimneys disignated as Type HT are listed for venting flue products not exceeding 1,000* (538C) continous. In addition,they comply with the 10 minute-2,100*(1149*C) temperature test requirements of UL 103, Standard
for factory built chimneys for residential type and building heating appliance.
Such test requirements were developed to stimulate the effects of a chimney fire. Type HT Chimneys are required on certain controlled-combustion solid fuel-burning appliances because such appliance are after associated with a higher liklihood of creosote buildup and associated occurrence of chimney fires.


The 1,700 degree(cheap chimney) that is being sold is not UL listed for solid fuel burning appliances.

Paragraph 36.4 of the UL 103 states" All chimneys claiming HT approval must be marked accordingly".



The reason for this post is through my expierences as of late. I've been seeing folks buying these discounted pipings and thinking they are saving money when in fact they are jeparodizing their home and family safety.
I just thought you all should be aware.
 
Good idea, Keith. You can tell burning season is upon us. Lots of activity in the Hearth section, and lots of new members with questions. Kinda makes you look forward to burning and to lending some knowledge. :-)
 
Thanks for the info Keith.

Now if I'm reading this right....its's the "HT" designation that one should look for?
 
Jags said:
Thanks for the info Keith.

Now if I'm reading this right....its's the "HT" designation that one should look for?
Correct..HT stands for high temp.

These other (1700 degree) flue pipes are being sold for about 30% less which is what grabs a guy's attention.
I'd like to point out that burning wood properly can and will be a great money saver.Cutting corners on flue pipe or appliances for that matter will only cost us in the end.....not save us.

Done properly and in my case I can say the the 30 thousand dollars I've netted out after 11 years has been a great reward or pay off on my initial investment.
 
CrappieKeith said:
Jags said:
Thanks for the info Keith.

Now if I'm reading this right....its's the "HT" designation that one should look for?
Correct..HT stands for high temp.

Yeah....I was just trying to put a little emphasis on it. :)
 
So wait I a little confused, I just installed a Simpson Duravent type HT stainless insulated pipe, I'm good right?
 
man i hope the duravent 9607ga and 8848 are rated high enough !! im nervous about the install.
 
Jags said:
CrappieKeith said:
Jags said:
Thanks for the info Keith.

Now if I'm reading this right....its's the "HT" designation that one should look for?
Correct..HT stands for high temp.

Yeah....I was just trying to put a little emphasis on it. :)
I figured as much coming from you Jags!
Thanks for the highlight...too many folks are walking by this issue.

Back in the late 70's and 80's there were many house fires from guys cutting corners.
 
greythorn3 said:
man i hope the duravent 9607ga and 8848 are rated high enough !! im nervous about the install.

Chill....all numbers in the 9600 series is Duratech which is HT and UL listed....so is the 8800 ,which is the DVL....double wall noninsulated.
The only difference is in clearences.
The duratech needs 2" and the DVL needs 6"....both numbers are minimums.
Typically your hooking up the DVL to your wood burner and then when you get to a ceiling or wall there is a connector that attaches to a thimble or ceiling support box.
 
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