I was reading a thread a while ago about these heat pumps for water heaters and someone was selling them on here. I can't remember who it was .
Weird. I can find the Nyle site, but they don't mention this model name at all. The Gyser unit (which seems to operate as described here) does seem quite attractively priced .vs. the "whole-new-water-heater-with-a-heat-pump" units and I do like the idea (if it holds up in practice) of it outlasting the tank, as those might not. Mind you, the CCHP unit is far more interesting for my applications, potentially, but I'll need to find a price on that, which is often not a good sign...if I have to ask, can I afford it?
I guess the water in the tank gets recirculated through the heat pump till it gets up to a preset temp.
I believe the other difference is that the Nyletherm was the precursor to the Geyser and is no longer being produced or marketed. Someone here, Perhaps Tom in Maine, provided a link on the story about the glut of Nyletherms and they were going to be sold at below cost prices online but I can't locate it.You can buy the Nyletherm 1 units on Ebay. There very affordable only difference between NyleTherm 1 and geysor that I know if is the Nyletherm is 220v and the geysor is 110v
I have the Geyser RO installed on my Superstore. The controller on my unit is a Johnson Control A419 and the sensor is positioned to measure the return water temperature to the HP.Mine will be set up with a strap on Aquastat on the line between the boilermate tank and the heatpump water inlet. Not sure how this will work, I'm thinking there may be some trial and error initially to get everything up and running the way I hope it does.
I think I would base my plumbing setup on how much a/c & dehumidification effect you need or can use in the summer.
Around here it hasn't been a whole lot the last few years, the summers haven't been really hot & humid for long - so I'd likely plumb it right to my DHW tank. But if I was normally needing to run a dehumidifier in the spring-fall stretch, or had extended hot & humid times, I would likely plumb it in to keep my storage warm so it would run longer. Or, you could set it up to do both if you can route the flow through a HX if you use one now for your DHW - that might be the way I would go here, plumb it into the DHW side of my HX so some heat would make it into my storage too. Maybe. Thing is once you plumb it to your boiler/storage water, you likely shouldn't switch it to the DHW side later - my boiler water is pretty stinky stuff, although quite clean looking.
How fast it take your tank to heat back up to max after depleting the hot water in it? recovery time I guess it called.It will go as high as you let it but it takes more and more energy the warmer it gets. Tom said to keep it under 130 for the best bang for your buck. Remember this isn't 60 degrees in, 130 degrees out, it just keeps adding more heat as the water passes though the unit.
I have mine set so it kicks off at 128. I was shooting for 125 and figured I was close enough.
Since I'm using the indirect I needed a hair warmer water. It works really well for me.
K
How fast it take your tank to heat back up to max after depleting the hot water in it? recovery time I guess it called.
I find my HP runs about 6 - 8 hours a day. Right now I have mine set to kick on at 115 and off at 125. That's 820 gallons of water that's being used to feed a 30 gallon indirect. I think if I had an exchanger in the tank it's self I would do better. I don't know how much I'm loosing in efficiency I'm loosing in the indirect but it has to be something.
Plus my basement is not only bone dry but hang right around 68 degrees all summer.
K
We use essential cookies to make this site work, and optional cookies to enhance your experience.