OAK draw from masonry chimney

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Lowarea

Member
Dec 26, 2012
36
Horseheads NY
Stove vents up a 11x6 masonry chimney with 4" flex, top is capped with a stainless plate and cap. I'd like to cut into the masonry flue, stub through with 2" flex (about 3' total). I'd then install an air inlet at the top plate.

The air would draw in the masonry flue around the flex vent and into the 2" oak stubbed into the masonry flue near the bottom of the masonry chimney.

In essence it would be the same approach as the Selkirk DT set up I have for the basement stove.

What do you think?
 
I would be concerned that heat added to the flue by the exhaust vent will cause the air in the flue to want to rise. This would result in a negative pressure at the air input to the stove.
I know that others have done something similar to what you are proposing, It would be worth while to search threads for the past few years.
Personally, I wouldn't do it.
 
Just set up my oak in chimney the following way and it works great. Run oak line about 6 feet up through chimney and let it stop there. Drill a few small holes, 5/8 or so, near the top of chimney through the brick. Insulate the bottom heavily so no air is pulled in from house. no need to cut a hole in chimney cap and run line up.
 
A couple things I would watch out for:

1.) Make sure you extend the stove flue outlet high enough above your OAK air inlet area at the chimney cap so you don't pull combustion gases back through your OAK. Mine is 2 feet higher.
2.) You will need to make sure your stove has enough combustion fan to counteract the draft in the chimney. I think most fans have plenty but be prepared to unhook it if you can't get the burn right.
 
Buy a "2 story" cap from swilliamson. bottom floor is intake, top floor is exhaust. right outside for both, no permanent drill holes in brick (really guys???)
 
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