OAK for NC30

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Dec 9, 2018
18
Philadelphia, PA
I'm throwing around the idea of installing an OAK on my NC30, the only problem is I would have to run it up and through the ceiling and out through a soffit with the opening facing down. The OAK would be about 10 ft long. My stove is installed in the basement and every time I go to light the stove and don't "draft" it first, the basement fills with smoke. Would an OAK help with this?

Another thing is I read on another post that the OAK should never be above the firebox, is this true?
 
That type of installation is not permitted because the OAK inlet is higher than the stove intake.

You are fighting negative pressure in the basement. Make sure there are no windows open upstairs or unsealed attic vents in the ceiling. Turn off any exhaust fans including clothes dryer.

Is there a nearby window or door that you can open an inch to see if that makes a big difference in stove behavior?
 
Besides, an oak on the nc30 is pointless. Only one of the four intakes draws air from the oak nipple on the back.
 
That type of installation is not permitted because the OAK inlet is higher than the stove intake.

You are fighting negative pressure in the basement. Make sure there are no windows open upstairs or unsealed attic vents in the ceiling. Turn off any exhaust fans including clothes dryer.

Is there a nearby window or door that you can open an inch to see if that makes a big difference in stove behavior?
I read somewhere that the OAK helps with negative air because it is drawing from outside not inside, also seen a couple of stove setups on youtube where the OAK is higher than the inlet (not saying that installation is correct). The house is pretty leaky, that is why I installed the stove in the first place. I do have a shaft door in my utility room I could crack open that would draw cold air from the attic, but no windows to open. This install below is one I have seen.

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Some stoves have no direct connect between the OAK inlet and the actual air inlets on the stove. There may be a plenum box in between. PE stoves are this way and the plenum box is not air tight. This is a good thing in the case of a basement install because it effectively prevents the oak from becoming a smoke stack in the event of draft reversal.

Test with opening a basement window or door 1" first. If that makes a notable difference then you could drop a valved air supply close to, the OAK hole on the stove, but not connected to it. (The valve is to close it off when the stove is not burning). Or you could consider an HRV to supply room fresh air that is preheated by outgoing room air.
 
Just lit the stove and cracked the door, definitely made a difference in lighting it. Guess I need to add that valved air supply. [Hearth.com] OAK for NC30
 
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The door he meant to crack was like the front door to the house, not the stove loading door. Just in case it wasn’t clear.
 
Am I missing something Isn’t it normally difficult to get a cold stove going? Al 19 foot of my chimney is outside so I don’t know it that makes a difference but if I go to start it after it’s been out for a while I feel air coming from down the pipewhen I open the stove door. I thought this was normal
 
Am I missing something Isn’t it normally difficult to get a cold stove going? Al 19 foot of my chimney is outside so I don’t know it that makes a difference but if I go to start it after it’s been out for a while I feel air coming from down the pipewhen I open the stove door. I thought this was normal

Not for me . This flue reversal has happened to me on occasion when the range hood fan is on in the kitchen. Turn it off and flow returned to upwards. More common in basements which are rare in my part of the country.
 
Am I missing something Isn’t it normally difficult to get a cold stove going? Al 19 foot of my chimney is outside so I don’t know it that makes a difference but if I go to start it after it’s been out for a while I feel air coming from down the pipewhen I open the stove door. I thought this was normal
It is more common with basement and bottom floor installations, but not all.
 
That adds up then because my application is in the basement. Will opening the window solve this if I’m starting a cold stove?
 
Maybe, maybe not. The picture you posted in your thread shows a healthy gap around the chimney pipe passing through the sheetmetal blank in the basement window. Has that gap been sealed?
 
Looks like more than enough.