OAK install for an insert

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Hope everyone has a wonderful and warm Thanksgiving!
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
Status
Not open for further replies.

djs_net

Member
Nov 25, 2011
178
CT
Even after a thorough cleaning, I continue to have issues with unburned or partially burned pellets and my burnpot filling up. I'm thinking about installing an OAK for my '98 Breckwell P2000 insert.

My questions are:

What is the best strategy for installing an OAK with an insert that is already in place? Because of settling and cracks, I will never use my current chimney (except for the liner) so I'm not opposed to drilling a hole for the OAK.

Is there an OAK specifically for my stove? I don't see any on Breckwell's website.

Is this something that should be installed professionally? It seems pretty straight forward so I assume a fairly handy guy could do it.
 
I am willing to bet $25 no matter how you run that OAK you will have no change in how the stove is burning. If I was you I would remove the insert and take it out side. Burn it for about 5 hours and see if there is a change. You will spend more time and $$$ attempting to but an OAK on that Breckwell.

Eric
 
If it is under five years old contact your dealer for a warranty issue.

Eric
 
If it is under five years old contact your dealer for a warranty issue.

Eric

I bought it used on CL. It was manufactured in 1998.

I don't have a dealer per se, I hired a local independent guy to install it for me.
 
I don't know the Breckwell stoves but I installed an OAK for my M55 a few weeks ago. I went through the back wall of the fire box and through the chimney wall to the outside. I figure the worst case is I have to hire a mason in to replace a few bricks. Pretty simple. I just clamped a length of 3" rigid drier vent to the air inlet on the back of the stove and the clamp holds it up and straight (aiming for the hole in the back of the fire box) while I push the stove back into place. Then I go outside and slide a vent hood into the hole and over the end of the vent pipe from the stove.

As far as stove performance, I can't say that it made much of a difference but what it did do is eliminate a nasty draft through the living room and the house is holding temperature longer.
 
Did you drill through the brick? did you use a thimble at all? i'm still debating going up or out too...
 
Yes, I used a Bosch hammer drill with a long bit and drilled a bunch of holes around the perimeter of a 4" square hole. then I used a hammer and cold chisel to clean up around the edges. Then I clamped a 5' long piece of 3" ridged dryer vent to the air intake at the back of the stove and guided the pipe through the hole as I pushed the stove back in place. Then I went outside and made a mark on the vent were it came out of the hole in the chimney wall. I then used this mark to determine how long to cut the pipe when figuring in the vent hood.

I got the vent hood here: http://www.famcomfg.com/wall-vents.html

They make nice vent hoods, rugged and with a screen already installed.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.