Offset adapter and blockoff plate questions

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DavidV

New Member
Hearth Supporter
Nov 20, 2005
792
Richmond VA
I believe there is a thread in the archives that covers the fabrication of a block off plate pretty well. I need to do it because I think my heat is all flying up the chimney around the liner..... yeah , yeah I also know it's a safety issue but nothing talks to you as much as knowing that you are cutting the efficiency of your stove setup. probly loosing 20% of my heat or more. .

I have just over 3 inches of space between the top of my stove and the bottom of the hearth. I would really like to to be able to pull the stove out into the room a bit more. Does anyone know where I could find an 8 inche round offset bock that would fit this bill. I don't imagine there is any way to fabricate such a thing since it would have to be made out of stainless? I'm looking for help on this one folks.

Now for the block off plate. My stove vents thru the top. I have to lift the liner up a bit so it scrapes across the top of the stove as I push the stove in, then I pull, tug, pray, beg, to get the liner pulled back down and into the top opening of the stove. How do I put a blockoff plate in there above it that can handle the fact that I have to lift the stupid thing up like that?? anybody wrestle with this themselves?
 
David I made my own offset box long before Ventnox came out with theirs I will post a picture of it. Basically I used aheavy gage electrical sub panell
and cut out holes for the vent pipe and attached small sections of connector pipe to it. mine was to overcome a 2.5" offset difference
 
Here is the one Elk is talking about:

(broken link removed to http://www.hartshearth.com/ProductCart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=0&idproduct=3660)
 
I was going to paint it flaming PE whorehouse red, but my wife nixed that idea. It did not match the blue stove or her curtains
 
DavidV said:
I believe there is a thread in the archives that covers the fabrication of a block off plate pretty well. I need to do it because I think my heat is all flying up the chimney around the liner..... yeah , yeah I also know it's a safety issue but nothing talks to you as much as knowing that you are cutting the efficiency of your stove setup. probly loosing 20% of my heat or more. .

I have just over 3 inches of space between the top of my stove and the bottom of the hearth. I would really like to to be able to pull the stove out into the room a bit more. Does anyone know where I could find an 8 inche round offset bock that would fit this bill. I don't imagine there is any way to fabricate such a thing since it would have to be made out of stainless? I'm looking for help on this one folks.

Now for the block off plate. My stove vents thru the top. I have to lift the liner up a bit so it scrapes across the top of the stove as I push the stove in, then I pull, tug, pray, beg, to get the liner pulled back down and into the top opening of the stove. How do I put a blockoff plate in there above it that can handle the fact that I have to lift the stupid thing up like that?? anybody wrestle with this themselves?

I have the exact same situation. I do not have theneed for the offset, I use an adjustable 90 degree connection at the top of the stove. Very little room in there....I tried the block off plate and thought I had it perfect until I tride to connect the pipe to the stove and it just was not happening. Got so frustrated I broke my adjustable connector!! So, iI cut the blockoff in half and just kind of put it where the damper used to be. Definetley not air tight, but, better than nothing. Made sure my top plate on the top of chimney was sealed real well. Next year going to try to perfect blockoff plate, just not this year :).
 
I have the exact same situation. I do not have theneed for the offset, I use an adjustable 90 degree connection at the top of the stove. Very little room in there....I tried the block off plate and thought I had it perfect until I tride to connect the pipe to the stove and it just was not happening. Got so frustrated I broke my adjustable connector!! So, iI cut the blockoff in half and just kind of put it where the damper used to be. Definetley not air tight, but, better than nothing. Made sure my top plate on the top of chimney was sealed real well. Next year going to try to perfect blockoff plate, just not this year :).[/quote]

The block off plate does not have to be pretty. Try this where you split it why not add another piece od galv metal. and gasket cemnet the crap around the premiter. The galv sheet metal at home crapo is thin, Make a square the size ot the original damper plate and cut out the 6" round. Then slit it to the cut out bend the slit open to fit around the flexible line and gasket cemnet the crap out of it. The slit line is at a 90 dregees of your previuos slit. If you can get a sheet metal screw in it good if not use spacer sticks resting on top of the stove, to hold it in place and let the cement set it. Then gasket cement any space on the slit and space around the pipe
 
Hey ELKer ........Is that off set box UL listed ?? hahahaha :lol:
In a round about way i bet it is. Its would of been a flaming box in "whorehouse red" ( or the start of a crayon box with all the different colors )

BTW My stove is only "whorehouse red" in the summer with no fire .......
Its a deep "whorehouse maroon" in the winter as the Porcelain Enamel darkens with heat.
GET IT RIGHT. %-P
 
The joke was to BB about painting his Englander his words whorehouse red I just repeated it aimed at him

Actually the box was Ul approved
 
Yeah , I heard ole' BB ..........I just didnt bite at the time. I was overwhelmed seeing 2 pages of new post when i signed on to Hearth.com.

Alright ELKer , just as long as its UL approved one way or the other, your secret is safe with me. ;-)
 
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