OIL, OIL, OIL, WHAT TYPE

[Snowy Rivers]

Getting ready to do Mid winter clean on the Big Whit, and this will entail yanking out all the ash baffles and blowing the dust bunnies out of the fan motors and such, plus the regular Suckemout with the leaf blower.

With all the work I'm doing on the control panels, I want to get a stock of replacement parts that fit the two whits.

The auger motors are identical and also the same as the Quad 1000 uses.
The exhaust fan is different on the two Whits, but I have a spare for the little guy.

This brings me to the issue of oil

The large Whit still has the factory exhaust blower installed, and I don't pull it, just suck things good with the leafer.

The exhaust blower is still hanging in there and running fine, but it has oil ports.
Last year I lubed it with some 5-30 motor oil when it was warm and running.

What say ye as far as the best oil for these motors.

I don't want to buy a large jug of oil.

Is the 3 in 1 any good.

The new replacement fans have sealed bearings now, but I'm gonna run the original fan till the beast rattles and grinds to a halt GGGRRRRRRRR PLUNK.

 

[Chrisnow86]

I picked up some of this stuff at grainger.. i like it works well and the long spout makes it easy to get to the bearings and oil ports..

(broken link removed)

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Wasn't the original oil for a number of the whit motors Anderol. What does the makers plate on the motor say to use, it is what rules everything else drools.

3 in 1 in the blue and white can is SAE20 non-detergent and made for electric motors.

 

[Bioburner]

I have been using the drippings from the Mobil One motor oil when I change oil on vehicles. I get a couple ounces from five bottles on a car change. Have several drip cans from flea markets. Have some blower fans that have been serviced with it that are over 30 years old. Resurrected a couple fans too.

 

[sportbikerider78]

Synthetics are great for high heat situations as well.

 

[bcarton]

Anderol, if that's what is called, is not that easy to find for a reasonable price, or with reasonable shipping cost. I managed to get some off eBay for about $15 shipped. If somebody needs the info I can dig out the seller's info tonight or tomorrow morning.

 

[Snowy Rivers]

Thanks troops

 

[Bioburner]

Synthetics are great for high heat situations as well.

I use a synthetic blend with moly for when I go over 150. The longer chains of crude based are actually better for some cushion. Yea I know getting off subject.

 

[pell it]

Whoa...you have to oil these things!!

 

[SidecarFlip]

3-1 is fine or motor oil in a lighter weight. It's more 'how often' rather than how much and when I get around to it. It's likie gunsbvg

I use a synthetic blend with moly for when I go over 150. The longer chains of crude based are actually better for some cushion. Yea I know getting off subject.

So are fat girls I hear.........

I'll stick with my left over from draining oil jugs (for oil changes, get the last few drops) oil.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Whoa...you have to oil these things!!

Some of them regular like .

 

[Johnny_Fiv3]

LOL pell it. Dura-Leak venting.

I was looking last night and it looks like the motors in these US Stove jobs might not be bad to work on.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

LOL pell it. Dura-Leak venting.

I was looking last night and it looks like the motors in these US Stove jobs might not be bad to work on.

He calls them as he sees them and he saw smoke.

 

[Snowy Rivers]

I stopped in town and picked up a bottle of 0-20 full synthetic Motor oil yesterday and coaxed some into a hypo syringe

Gave the two bushings on the exhaust fan a good drip drip drink.
The remainder of the work was the usual stuff.

Blow out and vacuum the fan motors, vacuum the crap out of the mechanical cabinet.
Clear the firebox, ash baffles and then give it the 300 mph suck with the leafer.

All good to go for another round.

The ash clearing is a weekly thing with the shells, and every two weeks having to remove the baffles and suck the pipe.

This install is right at the limit on horizontal vent run, so there is quite a bit of ash deposits after two weeks.

At present, the plan is to replace the exhaust fan with a new unit come seasons end and clean and store the old one as a spare.

I also am thinking about changing out the convection blower as well, JUST BECAUSE

The stove was made in 92, and Gawd knows how much use it had seen prior to our acquisition.

The fireback was eroded a lot and the mechanical cabinet was 1/3 full of crap then too.

The ash baffles were stuffed completely tight and the stove would not sustain a fire at all when we got it, so it was obvious that it had not seen much in the way of care.


It's amazing how many people buy pellet stoves and don't understand the concept of having to perform maintenance.

It took s couple full seasons of running here before the odor of the stale pellet dust that had accumulated finally went away.

Originally I removed the electrical equipment, stripped the chassis as far down as I could and steam cleaned the sucker to get the beast clean, but still there was the smell of stale pellets.

Might have gotten a lot of pellet dust sucked into the heat exchangers and sort of cooked it ????

We are on the 5th season now, and finally it does not make the room smell like cooking pellets.

I think we got a good deal for $200

Ahhhh yessssssssssss, the joys of a craigs list score