Oil Tank Filter - Residential 10 Micron 2 Year filter or Commercial 30 Micron 5 Year Filter?

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Which Oil Tank Filter Type do you prefer on your residential home heating oil tank?

  • Spin type Garber Commercial 5 year - 30 Micron Filter

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Older Westwood F80 cast iron type Oil filter changed every year

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Spin type Garber Residential 2 Year - 10 Micron Filter

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    0
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Don2222

Minister of Fire
Feb 1, 2010
9,117
Salem NH
Hello

Well I put the 10 Micron Filter in April 13,2010 and got almost 2 years out of it. There was some sluge in it so I just changed it. (Jan 30,2012) So I decided to change it when I put the new coated oil line in and use a 30 Micron Filter. See bare copper oil line replacement to coated vein copper line >> https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/90016/

With a ball valve shutoff, it is easier to change the spin type filters and there is 25% more filtering capacity.

So which Oil Tank Filter do you prefer on your residential home heating oil tank?
Pure Pro Filters >> http://www.fwwebb.com/purepro/html/filters.html

1. Spin type Garber Commercial 5 year - 30 Micron Filter
See pic in link
http://www.tanks.ie/products_id/363/cim-tek-hydrosorb-filter-30-micron-5-12-inch.htm
Also see commercial duty filter in middle pic below:

2. Older Westwood F80 cast iron type Oil filter changed every year
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...talogId=10053&productId=202274784&R=202274784

3. Spin type Garber Residential 2 Year - 10 Micron Filter
http://www.patriot-supply.com/products/showitem.cfm/GAR_BER_11V_RK


Having an oil filter do iit's filtering and not go into bypass mode is impotant!
 

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Unless you have really pour fuel any filter will be fine. Even no filter would probably be ok. The oil burners aren't too fussy with a little bit of junk running through them.
 
NATE379 said:
Unless you have really pour fuel any filter will be fine. Even no filter would probably be ok. The oil burners aren't too fussy with a little bit of junk running through them.

Well my friend has a 2 loop system without a filter but lately his nozzle is getting plugged more often with his brand new boiler.

I agree that there is some flexability here. It may be better to have a filter on a one pipe system.
So I may be all set with the 30 micron filter and not change it so often.

That would be good and save$$$

Having the oil man change the old sponge type of filter with his throw away rubber gloves was getting a bit costly!!
 
You could T off in front of that filter and put in a sediment trap or inline glass sediment bowl . That may help you visibly head off problems with filter and also extend filter life. Most diesel engine filters are 10 microns or less ( I run 5 mic on mine) , I'd be hesitant to run a 30 mic.
 
A diesel engine injector is at much much higher pressure and much small orifice than an oil burner though. That is like comparing an F-22 to a kids kite!

I'd throw on whatever filter is cheap and easy to change and change it out every 2000-3000 gals of fuel.
 
I'd argue that you'd be changing the 30mc filter more often than the 10mc. Or it will bypass quicker and cause more problems.
The 10mc will become more efficient as it plugs up probably 15-20mc range before needing changed.
 
BASOD said:
I'd argue that you'd be changing the 30mc filter more often than the 10mc. Or it will bypass quicker and cause more problems.
The 10mc will become more efficient as it plugs up probably 15-20mc range before needing changed.

I believe that the 30 Micron filter, filters out large particles down to 30 microns in size. The 10 micron filter, filters out smaller particles down to 10 microns in size. So the 30 micron filters last longer.

So since I use approx 200 gals per year, then changing would be every 10 - 15 years. So I just put in the 30 micron filter and I have another spare, it would last 20 - 30 years for about $16.00. The old filter for $25.00 per year would have cost me $250.00 to $375.00 in that time frame if not more with inflation!!
 
Don2222 said:
BASOD said:
I'd argue that you'd be changing the 30mc filter more often than the 10mc. Or it will bypass quicker and cause more problems.
The 10mc will become more efficient as it plugs up probably 15-20mc range before needing changed.

I believe that the 30 Micron filter, filters out large particles down to 30 microns in size. The 10 micron filter, filters out smaller particles down to 10 microns in size. So the 30 micron filters last longer.

So since I use approx 200 gals per year, then changing would be every 10 - 15 years. So I just put in the 30 micron filter and I have another spare, it would last 20 - 30 years for about $16.00. The old filter for $25.00 per year would have cost me $250.00 to $375.00 in that time frame if not more with inflation!!

Filters are funny in that depending on your particle size, smaller mesh filters can resist plugging longer than larger mesh sizes. Think about using chain link fence to filter tennis balls vs. volleyballs. Air/water would still flow past the volleyballs (albeit somewhat restricted) whereas the tennis balls would plug up the fence/filter quite effectively. Again, it all depends on particle size.
 
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