Old cast iron Sears top loader tips and tricks

sardo_67 Posted By sardo_67, Dec 2, 2018 at 10:56 PM

  1. sardo_67

    sardo_67
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    was talking to my GF about buying a wood stove for the garage so she gave me money for one as an early Christmas present last week. Was looking to spend around 100-150, found a Sears top loader on CL for $150, offered 100, he said 125, he didn’t have change for 20s so I gave him $123.

    Got it hooked up and fired to burn the paint off the single wall pipe, test it as well. I found it’s somewhat hard to control the heat from it and the stove pipe will glow red fairly easy. Where should I mount the thermometer on the stove pipe to monitor temp, down towards the stove or where I have it now about 3ft up?

    Should there be a baffle in the stove below the 6” chimney exit so direct flames don’t go up the chimney?

    Also there are a lot of small gaps around the top parts and door, should I attempt to seal up the top with some type of fire caulk so I can better control the air flow or this is just how these stoves are?

    I am not looking for anything crazy or like 90% efficiency here, just want an easy to run stable stove for my garage without having to worry about it running away or dying out.

    Attached pics of said stove.
     

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  2. begreen

    begreen
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    One does not "burn the paint off the stove pipe". It should never be glowing red. Not sure what other shortcuts were taken here but wood stoves in garages are against code and not permitted in most jurisdictions, nor by many insurance companies. These old stoves are hard to regulate. Often a stove pipe damper is needed to slow down the burn.
     
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  3. sardo_67

    sardo_67
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    Ok well when you get new black single wall stove pipe it smokes terribly when you first fire the stove up. What is it doing?
     
  4. bholler

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    You should be curing the paint. But by the looks of it you may very well be burning it off. That pipe is way to hot. Like begreen said a solid fuel burnig stove by code cannot be installed in a space where gasoline is present.
     
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  5. sardo_67

    sardo_67
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    Ya that’s what I thought. I wasn’t trying to make it glow red.


    Ok so what is the correct way to cure the paint on black pipe?
     
  6. begreen

    begreen
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    The paint is baked once it is up to 4-500º. To glow red like that the pipe was likely over 1000º and that is on the surface.
     
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  7. peakbagger

    peakbagger
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    There is no way to make this stove long burning or efficient. It is what it is and that's a cheap stove. Your only control is limit the amount of wood you burn to match the heat load and feed small amounts of wood frequently. Don't even try to get long burns, its designed to be leaky.

    I don't understand why you call it a top loader, the intent is its fed from the front door.
     
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  8. jatoxico

    jatoxico
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    Code violations not withstanding, it needs a stove pipe damper.
     
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  9. sardo_67

    sardo_67
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    The top swings to the side so you can top load it, I don’t know what to call it other than an old sears stove.
    I’m not wanting to turn this into an all nighter or anything lol. Just wanted to see if it’s running normal.


    It does have one. Or do you mean one inside the stove itself?
     
  10. sardo_67

    sardo_67
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    back to what i was originally asking, should i add a baffle inside the stove before the 6' exit to prevent flames from going directly up the single wall stove pipe? i have a lot of scrap 1/4 plate laying around that i can fab up inside.
     
  11. wooduser

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    Wow! Looks like you are getting a nice hot fire in that stovepipe in the first picture!

    I guess that's why you'd like to install a baffle?


    My steel stove is pre EPA, and has a simple bracket at the back of the stove in which a piece of steel plate fits. That functions to block the flame from going up the chimney. The bracket doesn't really do the job by itself, it tends to flop to one side and fall down after a while.

    I've installed a piece of 1/2" steel pipe at the front of the stove to hold it in place.

    If you decide to do something like that ( I have no Xpertise to make a recommendation ) how would you support and install it? The good thing about mine is that it lifts out pretty easily. But if you have bright ideas on how you'd install a baffle, I'd be glad to hear them and think about improving what I have.
     
  12. begreen

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    It probably won't hurt. Getting the length right may take a little experimenting.
     
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