ooops, first taste of a little overfire

[nlittle]

So I had a nice fire in my Hampton 300 last night with a mix of wood. Once it was no longer flaming etc, I knocked down the coals and loaded it up again. Let it light up (it was quick) and closed the air down to 1/2". The fire was ROARING and I started to see the glow I have heard about. Just inside on the middle of the box, an otherwise pretty orange. The Rutland on the top of the box was pushing over 750.
I immediately turned the air off and put the fan on high. The glow went away in about 20 minutes and then I put everything back to normal. 1/2" open, fan on low.
Little scary. I think I have to figure out exactly what my mix of wood is because there may have been too much soft- fast and hot burning stuff in there.

Looked in the slot this morning and all the welds etc seem fine so I guess we chalk this one up to experience.
So, maybe if you have an already hot firebox you do NOT load it up with anything but nice chunks of hardwood to avoid this?

 

[begreen]

Next time turn down the air sooner, maybe when the stove is reading about 400. With the tall stack it sounds like there is strong draft on the stove. Make sure door seals are tight. When feeding on a hot coal bed, use larger splits.

 

[nlittle]

Yeah, I have been doing some reading here and think I put in more wood while the box was still too hot.....probably already 400! I need to be patient and let it cycle down a little more before adding wood I think.

 

[BrotherBart]

Yeah, I have been doing some reading here and think I put in more wood while the box was still too hot.....probably already 400! I need to be patient and let it cycle down a little more before adding wood I think.

Yep.

 

[firefighterjake]

Yeah, I have been doing some reading here and think I put in more wood while the box was still too hot.....probably already 400! I need to be patient and let it cycle down a little more before adding wood I think.

Most definitely . . . this morning I would not put a fresh load of wood on the fire even though I was leaving for work and my wife was heading to bed since a) the stove top temp was still too high, b) there were still active flames and not coals in the firebox, c) I like burning wood efficiently, d) I kind of like my house and my wife . . . and not necessarily in that order of importance.

 

[nlittle]

What is a good stove top temp (on firebox) to reload? 2-300?
Less?

 

[firefighterjake]

What is a good stove top temp (on firebox) to reload? 2-300?
Less?

Probably varies depending on the stove and what you need for temps . . . but in general I think folks would say 200-250 is a good stove top temp.

I use 200 degrees as a temp . . . but also go by what the coals look like (usually adding wood when the wood is not only coaled up, but is broken apart into small coals the size of golfballs) . . . That said, if it's wicked cold and windy outside and I want to keep the house warm I may add wood sooner rather than later . . . realizing that in doing so I may keep the house warmer, but may also end up with more coals over time.

 

[ChillyNoMore]

Newbie here, with a newbie question...I will (hopefully) soon be installing a Scan 61 with double wall stove pipe. From reading posts here it is clear that I should invest in a thermometer. My question is, will it work with the double wall stove pipe or do I simply place it on top of the steel body of the stove? So much to learn -- I'm glad you guys are here!

 

[Jags]

Newbie here, with a newbie question...I will (hopefully) soon be installing a Scan 61 with double wall stove pipe. From reading posts here it is clear that I should invest in a thermometer. My question is, will it work with the double wall stove pipe or do I simply place it on top of the steel body of the stove? So much to learn -- I'm glad you guys are here!

Go and get yourself two different thermos. One magnetic one for the stove body and a probe type for the stack. The probe type will need a hole drilled (it sounds scary but don't let it get to ya) in the pipe. That way you have the best of both worlds. Stove temp and internal stack temp. Bingo - your off to a good start.

 

[michaelryba]

Getting back to the OP, it seems to me that coaling situation can be handled by watching how much (if any) of your coals are still black--unburned like lump charcoal. If there's more than a little when I rake them forward, I hold off on reloading. Close the door, open the damper some more, and come back 15 min. later. This seems to burn off the excess energy & put it in the room instead of letting it build up. Of course, a thermometer is a wondeful tool to; but I don't have one.

 

[firefighterjake]

Newbie here, with a newbie question...I will (hopefully) soon be installing a Scan 61 with double wall stove pipe. From reading posts here it is clear that I should invest in a thermometer. My question is, will it work with the double wall stove pipe or do I simply place it on top of the steel body of the stove? So much to learn -- I'm glad you guys are here!

The answer is yes . . .

As mentioned you will want one thermometer for the stove top (i.e. to keep an eye on avoiding overfires, lets you know when the stove is getting warm enough to start shutting down the air for secondary combustion) and for double wall pipe you will want a probe-style thermometer (i.e. to avoid chimney fires and avoid excessive creosote build up.)